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1883 Hammergun Question
I have #32888 a top level hammer gun with 30" barrels (Twist) that my father picked up somewhere in New Mexico about 40 years ago. I think it is a 10 GA since the chamber is .875 x 2 7/8 and a 12 GA snap cap just falls in past the extractors. It was to be a restore project that he never quite got around to. I am not sure if he intended to clean it up for a wall hanger or a shooter. Now all these years later I would like to see if it can be resurected, hopefully as a shooter, if not a wall hanger since it has been in the family for quite a while.
I doubt it has much if any collector value other than parts. I believe it is a grade #0. The only case colors left are a bit on the underside of the foregrip latch. It is very well worn and the outline engraving is almost gone. The big negative is that the stock is snapped off and I do not have all the wood pieces to repair it. There are only traces of the checking left on the stock and foregrip. On the plus side the insides look great, all the serial numbers match and there is no rust on the locks or other internal mechanisims. It locks up ok, but with a little rattle that I imagine could be tightened up by a smith. The bores look fairly good to my untrained eye. Now finally my question. I live in the Columbia, Maryland area and I am looking for a gunsmith that can evaluate the barrels and tell me if it is safe to shoot. If so it is worth me cleaning it up and putting a replacement stock on it. Thanks in advance for any thoughts or reccomendations. I have been trolling through this forum for a week now and I must say it is a treasure trove of information and knowledgable people. Thanks to everyone here for what you do! |
Eric: Welcome to the forum. 32888 is in the book as a Grade 0 with 30" plain twist barrels and a capped pistol grip stock. It is listed as a 10 gauge. So, other than a broken stock, you have the gun as it was configured when it left Meriden CT. Can't assist for a gunsmith. Would enjoy seeing pics, including all the stock pieces you have.
Cheers, Jack |
Thanks for the reply and the information, I appreciate it. I will work on getting some pictures to share in the next couple of days. It should be a good example of a very worn, heavily used, and somewhat abused gun.
If anyone does have a suggestion for a gunsmith that can reliably measure barrel wall thickness on an old double I would appreciate it. Pennsylvania and Northern Virginia are not too far from my Maryland location. Thanks again. |
You need Dewey McNair in PA. He is backed up with work but would be the best person to help you. David
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http://www.vicknairrestorations.com/...ns___Home.html |
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Here are some pictures of it. I do wish I had all of the pieces of the stock. It is interesting to see the bright case colors on the underside of the foregrip iron in the last picture. It is nice to imagine what it would have been like a 127 years ago.
Assuming the barrels check out and I can actually shoot it what do you guys recommend as the best way to protect the receiver? I will probably rust blue the barrels, but the bare metal receiver will rust real easily without something. Thanks again. Attachment 6940 Attachment 6941 Attachment 6942 Attachment 6943 Attachment 6944 Attachment 6945 Attachment 6946 Attachment 6947 Attachment 6948 Attachment 6949 Attachment 6950 Attachment 6951 Attachment 6952 Attachment 6953 |
Assuming the barrels check out and I can actually shoot it what do you guys recommend as the best way to protect the receiver? I will probably rust blue the barrels, but the bare metal receiver will rust real easily without something.
No to the rust blue:nono:, those barrels had a black and white finish on them. The stock maybe be able to be saved. Try contacting the (I think) Stock Fixxers or the Stock Dr. Don't have the numbers but I am sure someone will come up the numbers or website. Eric |
The Stock Doctor...thestockdr@riflemag.com
Stock Fixers....thestockfixrs@hotmail.com |
Thanks Dave I knew either you or Dean would come through... Eric
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Eric,
Please do not rust blue the barrels. It would be wrong for the Parker and an eye sore to Parkerfiles. The best bet would be to keep all metal parts wiped down with an oily rag. I have more than a few Parkers in the same shape as yours and keeping them wiped down is all that is required. I do see your barrels are off the face. There is a space between the barrels and the breach. You can spend a lot of money having it repaired or you can go to the hardware store and purchase a bag of copper shim sheets for about $5.00. cut a piece of copper the width of the hinge pin about an inch long, wrap it around a pencil to make it into a clip and clip it on the hinge pin. This will put your Parker back on face. Kindest, Harry |
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