Redneck chamber depth gauge
 

Pictured on top of one of my favorite books ever, is my "Redneck shotgun chamber depth gauge". Given that I am a thrifty person by nature, except that sometimes that has to go by the wayside when it comes to Parkers and other fine firearms, I am always looking for a thrifty solution to a problem.

I took a standard 2 3/4" 12 gauge shotgun shell and created a plug on the lathe, and inserted it into the 2 3/4" shell. In theory, it should work, except for I am unaware if the tolerances would be tight enough to always differentiate a shotgun rechambered for 2 3/4" versus one in its original 2 9/16" configuration. I don't currently have a known original shotgun with 2 9/16" chambers to try it on.

Here's the alternative: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...e-prod593.aspx

With something like this, virtually free is better, provided it works!

While we are at it, how does rechambering a vintage Parker shotgun affect value? I would think with a "shooter" it would enhance value, but a high grade nearly mint gun it would hurt value. How about your standard VH grades with above average condition, or even a DHE?

Why not use your lathe to turn a "plug" or rod (it could be wood if that's what you have) the correct diameter to fit into the chamber? Make it long enough so it protrudes out of the breach (just like the ones from Brownells). Stick it into the camber until it stops, mark the rod at the breach, and measure the length from the end of the rod to the mark.

The problem with using a shotgun shell is that it isn't long enough to measure a chamber that is longer than the shell.

That certainly would be easy enough to do. What dimensions should I make it to? Such that, without question, it hangs up at 2 9/16" if that is the true depth or extends to 2 3/4 " if that is the true depth.

I guess what I had in mind is something that extends to 2 3/4" deep if that was truly the depth, or sticks out 3/16" (2 3/4 - 2 9/16 = 3/16) if the chamber depth remains the original 2 9/16".

Make it 6” long — stick it in the chamber until it stops then mark it at the breach. Remove the rod and measure the length from the end you inserted to the mark you made.

I was implying diameter. I have a 2 3/4" Fox Sterlingworth I can use as a template, but I want to make it small enough so it doesn't get stuck and big enough so that it truly hangs up at 2 9/16".

This what I use. About as frugal as you can get but it works well. A 16 inserted into a 12 and a 28 inserted into a 20.

Another cheapie method is just cut an empty hull off at the base, square it up, measure it and put the squared up end into the chamber til it stops and measure with a 6" machinists scale how far the hull went into the chamber and add that to the length of your squared off hull.

Works good for me.

https://i.imgur.com/ndWrRqB.jpg?1

A great book. enjoyed reading it.

I would never, under any circumstances, alter the chambers of a good old double gun, regardless of whether it is collector condition or a just plain shooter. There is never a good reason to do so where another remedy would solve the perceived 'problem'.





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Dean has come around to my way of thinking, or maybe he always thought that way. Don't take steel away from a good set of barrels, for any reason.