Remove Cold Blue
 

I know this has been discussed before but how do you remove cold blue. I have a VH 16 that the receiver was blued (I think cold blue) I don't want to remove all of the blue just some and try and give the gun that used patina look. Also need a DHBP number one frame repro is fine if anyone has one laying around and a small piece of old walnut gunstock to replace the chip in the butt 1/2" or 3/4"s. Gun is a VH 16 with 30" barrels that has been used but not abused and I want to make it look better. Thanks for any imput. Eric

Birchwood Casey makes a bluing remover-

Brian Dudley has suggested white vinegar in previous -posts on the subject. Since he says it works slowly- it might be a good choice to remove some but not all

Rick I'll give that a try. Now to find a piece of walnut to replace the chip and also any recommendations on how to peen down marred screw heads? Guy even messed up the hinge pin screw head......:banghead:

Eric, I bought a DH at KTP a few years ago. Cleaned it after use with Hoppes first and then with Balistol on successive cleanings. Second on third cleaning I noticed a coppery sheen that appeared to me to be under the bluing. Successive cleanings removed some bluing to a well used silvery worn appearance. I can only conclude the barrels were at least partially cold-blued and the Balistol affected whatever cold blue was applied. I like Balistol and it has not affected the bluing on any other gun since and I use it on all my guns.

Also Balistol is excellent at cleaning but be careful with oxidized silver on old plated firearms that retain the silverplating. Balistol will remove that nice black silver patina down to the base metal.

Erick

Eric: I have peened a few messed up screws. First off, be patient. I use various size brass punches and a small hammer. Very light tapping. When the screw head was messed up, the screwdriver blade slipped under some pressure and twisted the metal edge of the slot out and up. You want to return the metal in the opposite fashion, so start at the furthest point from the big ugly lump. I do this with the screw in place or if it is already out, then in a soft jawed vice. Use a small punch first and begin pushing the metal back toward the slot. BE PATIENT. Progress to larger punches, just enough to fully catch the marred edge. With patience and perseverance one can pee through a rock or "unbugger" a Parker screw head. The "new" edge of the screw slot will not be as strong as an unmarred screw but the slot will look pretty decent and if proper hollow ground tips are used, you can still turn the screw without marring it.
Good luck

Jack

Thanks Jack, can you use flat steel punches instead of brass if you take it easy and slow?

If using steel punches, keep the tapping very light. The bit of metal you are trying to move back in place is compromised, so the softer the punch the better.