![]() |
Please advise on G 12 gauge
3 Attachment(s)
Hello, Friends,
Today my cousin brought #78254 to my house for me to see. It belongs to his friend, who recently bought it from an antique store in Kansas. It has a few problems, but I doubt that any of them are insurmountable. The owner would like to make a shooter out of it. My cousin asked me to photograph it, post it here, and seek your feedback. It is a G grade, hammerless, extractor gun on a size 2 frame. I'm not equipped to measure chambers, bores and chokes. We did fit a 12 gauge shell into one chamber. Top rib is stamped "Damascus Steel". The gun has a thumb safety. It has a capped pistol grip and rubber butt plate with dog, well-worn, but not broken. Wood is not fancy. I forgot to measure the barrel length, but have asked my cousin to send that info to me. It has some bore pitting which will need to be evaluated by someone who is equipped to measure the barrel walls and pit depth. It is slightly off face and the top rib has come loose at the muzzles, but is not bent. It also has two shallow dents in the left barrel and some long scratches on the left side of the wrist and comb. I speculate this damage all happened in the same fall. The barrel finish is worn, as we would expect from a well-used gun. No traces of case hardening colors remain on the outside of the receiver. Strong colors remain on the metal inside the fore arm. Engraving is present on all surfaces, but will not show well in my photos. My first thoughts are: Evaluate bore condition and wall thickness. Evaluate dents. If those problems are not too serious, have it brought on face, remove dents, re-solder the top rib, have it professionally cleaned and start enjoying it. Consider barrel re-blacking at same time as rib repair. Consider repair to deep stock scratches now or in future--in that order. I am not sure what the owner paid for the piece, but I know he can have the various repairs estimated in advance. Only he will know how much he is willing to invest beyond his purchase price. I'd be very interested to know what you would do if you owned this gun. |
3 Attachment(s)
Barrel dents are small and shallow. They are circled in these photos. I didn't see them in the bore, but the bore was not reflecting much light.
|
3 Attachment(s)
Engraving is nice, but not real fancy. It won't show well in my photos, but is very evident to the eye. It features a bobwhite quail scene on the right side, Canada geese in flight on the left side, and what I believe are California quail on the floor plate. IF I'd had a screw driver that fit perfectly, I might have tried to change the positions of those floor plate screws to see if they'd both go into proper alignment.
Pistol grip photo also shows the deep gouge along the left side of the wrist and the comb. |
My cousin just emailed to tell me that he measured the barrels at 27 & 1/8, which seems odd to me. Some choke is visible in each muzzle, but I don't have to tools to measure it. The chokes are different, as we would expect in a field gun. This is clearly obvious to the eye when viewing the muzzles.
|
The serial number book has it as a D2 with 28 " barrels capped stock your picture of the muzzle looks to be as if they may of been cut .
|
I cannot see enough about the stock on the gun to make an informed decision, but I suspect it may be a replacement. The look of the comb and grip area are suspect to me. But... it has at least been sanded to the point of the checkering being gone. You also have a second screw through the guard that should not be there. It is beyond me why people do that. It is too often seen.
Regarding the barrels, They are cut. The odd length combined with the fact that the rib matting runs off the end tell me so. If he wants to shoot it, the wall thickness should be checked out first before anything is done. If that is good, then everything else is fixable. But... the repairs needed would likely run you close to $1,000 if you want to have a working budget. The ribs should be stripped and completely relayed, which would require refinishing. All that and the bores will still have pitting. So, up to you if it is worth wile. Either way, it would be a labor of love because to fix the barrels alone would be more than the gun is fairly worth in its condition as far as cosmetics go. |
Thanks for the input so far. I guessed that the factory length on those barrels was 28", because if they had been cut back from 30" I doubt there would have been any visible trace of the chokes left in the muzzles. It didn't occur to me to look at the rib matting running off the muzzle end. I am pretty ignorant about these things and that's why I keep coming back here. Thank you, Brian!
It's not my shotgun, but I am collecting information and opinions for the owner. Any opinions about what a gun of this age and condition ought to be worth if in shooting condition? I ask because I have a strong hunch the owner got an extremely sweet deal when he purchased it. As I understand it, he purchased this shotgun, a fine pre- Civil War half stocked percussion target rifle and a .31-caliber Colt pocket revolver (percussion) for one lump sum. I think a case could be made that he doesn't have much invested in this Parker. It might be worth it to him to have it brought into shooting condition...if not cosmetically perfect condition. He will have to make that decision, but I'm sure he would appreciate any input our member can provide. |
It is not hard to find shootable GH grade 12g guns for less than $1,000. And those would be guns without cut barrels and with original unaltered wood.
|
Brian, please explain what you mean by "a second screw through the guard that should not be there". I'm not arguing with you, I just don't understand what you mean, and I can't see any obvious second screw in the photos. Many thanks in advance.
|
The screw in the guard tang about a half inch from the end of the tang should not be there.
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:34 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright © 1998 - 2025, Parkerguns.org