another 10 bore hull question
 

the first set of roll crimped loads in the new Remington hulls went well, but quite a bit of a roll remains in the mouth of the hull after it has been fired.

When I load the wad (SP10) in a new hull, its a tight fit, when I try to get the wad into a once fired hull that had been roll crimped it won't go and tears the case.

Do you do something (like BPI's spin doctor) to recondition the hull's mouth?

a spin doctor would work nice..the memory of this plastic is very good i too have the same problem you do..i take awad puncher and just roll it around the inner edge of the shell this usally lets the wad go in without much trouble.. i bet that spin doctor would solve both our problems... charlie

It happens to me when I fold crimp as well. Especially to new Federals that I cut down to 2 7/8". I condition the mouth of the hull before reloading to prevent the "wad snag"when reloading with a tool you describe. At one time I tried to skive the hull but that takes too much time, made a mess, and the plastic gets clogged in the cone bit. P.I.T.A...

A spin doctor device is going to help greatly. In the interim if using a MEC single stage loader you can hold the hull by the brass placing just the mouth on the wide chrome part of the deprimer and wiggle the hull in wide circles while pushing the mouth of the hull against the deprimer to open it.

I don't roll crimp plastic hulls for that reason - if I do, like 12ga, they get thrown away. Paper hulls are the ones that roll crimp nice and reload with no problems.

When loading NEW 10,8 or 4 gauge hulls try this method.

After you have inserted the wad and added the shot, insert an over shot card. Then run a bead of glue around the perimeter of the card to glue it to the inside of the hull.---Forget any type of crimp at all !!!!!

I have found that this method eliminates any wad insertion problems ( during the next reload) and distress at the mouth of the hull. Thus the hulls last much longer and they are easier to reload next time.----It works for me.
Daryl Middlebrook

Daryl there was an earlier post that included a chart showing significant increases in pressure from seeming subtle difference in the depth of a folded crimp. I have to wonder about the amount of resistance a bead of hot glue provides and if it is more or less than a traditional roll crimp and thus effecting pressure up or down?

That was my thought Peter, the glue is material that must be moved to allow the wad to exit.

On the other hand it might even reduce pressure, and to my simple mind that could affect burn rate and velocity.

A good question. I have always used smokless powder for all of my reloads. I have read the Sherman Bell articles in DGJ. I use low pressure powders and generally tend to load lite for my Damascus guns.---Having said that, I never considered what various methods of closing the hole might have on pressures.

There are abundant recipes out there for 10ga. Finding recipes for 8 and 4 gauge loads (with pressures given) have proven to be a challenge.

I mostly use recipes that Tom Armbrust has published. However it is limited. Tom is a big bore specialist. He may have the info.----Daryl

daryl i load some the way you do..one thing i have learned when useing hot glue gun a person needs to put some pressure on the top wad till the glue sets up..for i have found that with lite loads espically in the 8 ga that you will get some bloopers if the shells are allowed to stay on the shelf for a few days ..the reason i believe you get bloopers is that by putting no pressure on the top wad while glueing is that the wads will expand on their own thus not enough pressure on the top wad to set powder off good...this is my 2 cents worth...would love to load up a box of 4 ga and shoot them.... charlie