GHE restoration
 

As I am Bringing back an old damaged stock, I am curious if it would be better to add a wedge to the toe of the stock or would it be better to put a proper pad where the wood has been sanded to round. :rolleyes:

how about a picture

i assume the not unusual piece broken of the toe- but how big?

a very small missing piece could be sanded but you would need to continue the new line to the pistol grip ( tirigger guard on a straignt grip)

the bigger the missing piece the more effort to make this look right.

if you can find a matching piece of wood, smooth the broken area - peg and expoy a new piece of walnut. sand - stain to match. it may not completely disappear, but it would be more presentable than a poor reshape.

the bottom line is straight til about 1 inch from the toe where it has lost about a quarter inch at max. The butt plate and bottom were sanded round. Not terrible but not right. A Silver pad would be a nice touch. The wood, though nice, is not great and matching it would not be tough but a period correct recoil pad would be an easy repair. I failed to mention the ancient repair to the wrist that was a break through which was well done. I have cleaned the stock(de-oiled)and am re checkering the grip and again, will never be pristene perfect anyway. I was thinking it may be better with buttpad. Opinion?

The thing with a pad is that it would only be "correct" if it is a period style pad like a silvers or noshoc. Or other of the sort. Yes, a pad is an easy fix but it may not be the best fix since once done it will mean shortening the stock depending on the lop require. And once that stock is cut, it's a done deal. The other option for an invisable repair is to restrike the toe line and it a new buttplate. But of course that would mean going down a buttplate size. What frame size is the gun? And the stock shield would have to be reinletted. Or just repAir the toe.

thanks for the input. You are right cause once you cut it it won't grow back. I am wedging and re -buttplateing. Good call. thanks

At least that way u can always redo it if need be.

wish you fellas lived close to me...enjoy yall talking about the wood work... charlie

youtoo,cannot wait to show you where it is going. I have used some different techniques in this recovery. I needed to clean up the old repair and before I show pictures I will be surprising you later. I did attach the wedge I found with Loctite 330. That will never come apart. I have found thin CA to be an ultimate mini filler/leveler/blender. Show you B/A fotos soon. Man I love bringing em back.

The last wrist repair I did, after gluing the crack back together, I then inserted a dowel under the grip cap that went all the way through the center of the wrist to add additional reinforcement. Maybe this would be a good way to sure up that old wrist repair. Doing it this way is good becasue the grip cap hides the repair. The same could be done with a straight grip, just a much longer dowel.

Brian, I will do it. I have some walnut dowel. What size dowel did you use. 1/4 or ? Not a lot of room. Great idea. I would feel much better with a re-rod through the repair.

now I am going to have to figure out the checkering size and redo it which will hide the old repair even more. This is coming out well.

found some remarkable graphite rods. I am considering using them to reinforce a stock I am working on. Much tougher than wood dowel. Will let you know.

I think most repair guys use threaded metal or screws rather than wood dowels, if possible.

this is in line with the wrist and runs from the action down to the butt direction.

Yeah. A piece of 3/8" threaded rod will work for that. Can't get much stronger than that. But the graphite type you mention or fiberglass would be a lighter weight option. Don't know if you figured out your earlier checkering question, but a GH grade would be around 20 lines per inch.

20 tpi, got it thanks, you need to see this graphite, strong lite and tough. don't see a down side yet. will advise. when done , I will figure out how to post pix.