New Member, Inherited Parker
 

Hi, I've inherited a Parker double, Serial 219233. It's a Model BHE trap gun, with 32" barrels, a ventilated rib (with front bead), and double triggers.

Apparently during it's lifetime, the stock was pieced to raise the comb. It's a good job, but obviously not the original configuration. The cost of having a new stock fitted is beyond my budget, so I'm considering to either have the stock refinished, or to just sell the gun outright. The finish on the stock right now is "crazed", and it has an aftermarket butt pad installed.

Anyway, I'm searching for advice and suggestions, and the members of thos Association are clearly who I'd like to get advice from.

Here are a few pictures:

Wayne Clifton
Pittsburgh, PA

I'd just lose the adjustable pad,put on a regular pad that fit you for length and shoot the gun as is.You might have to have the comb brought down some to fit you also. If you're not a shooter put it on one of the auction sites such as Gunbroker and see what she brings. Looks like she could be a nice gun with some stock work done.

Book says a B grade Acme steel barrels ejectors capped pistol grip. NO VENT RIB NO MONTE CARLO STOCK AND NO LARGE OR BEAVERTAIL FORE END.
12 ga. 32" length.

Probably went back to Parker for the BTFE as it has the correct iron for the BTFE reinforcing screw.

You'll have to help me. BTFE ? ? ? ?

Also, can anyone recommend a stock artist anywhere near me?

Would a PGCA research give me anymore information on the alterations??

BTFE is Beavertail Forend.

A research letter may provide more information on your gun. On the lower grades, probably not, but in the higher grades like yours it is more likely that there is some interesting provenance linked to your gun.

Others can respond to a stock man in your area.

Wayne, An interesting Parker... Can you post some photos of the vent rib, and also the area where the barrels/dolls head meet with the top of the receiver?

Best, CSL
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I think I would just have the wood striped and refinished to remove the crazing and leave it alone.What a wonderful gun...

You guys are way over my head with terminology. Can you please describe what "the barrels/dolls head" means? I'm really not at your knowledge level with the terms.

Anyway, here are the only pictures I have presently of the rib. Let me know if, by sheer luck, I captured the right area. If not, and with a little guidance, I can take more.

Please try to take a pic of the top of the rib showing any and all inscriptions. This appears to be a Simmons made rib at first glance. Thanks, Jim

Here are new pictures of the rib.

Also, I made a mistake in the first post. The serial number is 219623. (Probably an age thing - mine, not the gun's.)

Definitely order a letter on the gun. Apparently it went back to the factory for some work/upgrades. Jim

When you do send the gun out for the stock work, have the stock maker remove that pin through the side panels and properly repair what must be an old crack. That area can be filled, and when the checkering is re-cut, it will never show.

I really appreciate all of the input and suggestions. Thanks.

Just a couple questions. Although I hate to take advantage of all of this expertise, I just can't resist.

First, does anyone know of a good stock guy anywhere Pittsburgh. I found a Gary Stiles, but don't have any references for his work.

And finally, is there any chance that anyone has an original butt plate laying around that they would be willing to part with?? The stock is apparently a size 1 1/2. (Hey, no harm in trying.)

Wayne

Craig Libhart of Susquehanna Stockworks is in Bainbridge, just south of Harrisburg. Member of the gun guild. Great guy and does great work.

http://www.susquehannastockworks.com/index.html

Measure the end of the butt stock at its widest and longest and I'll see what I have. Jim

Wayne: To answer your earlier question the "Doll's Head" is the top rib extension which fits into a slot in the action body. Sometimes Simmons vent ribs are marked "Simmons, Inc." in very small letters on the left side near the breech. You have a beautiful B Grade Parker & I would take Dave's advice & have the original wood refinshed by an expert in either tung oil or linspeed. JMHO

Best Regards, George

The vent rib on your gun is a Parker rib. Also the frame sculpting where the rib meets the barrels is correct for a factory built vent rib gun.

Yup, Parker factory vent rib, sent out that way when first built. Our reference for serial numbers only addresses the automatic ejector option. A PGCA letter will possibly address other original options such as the beavertail forend and ventilated rib. We need at least one additional picture, that being a picture of the bottom of the barrels at the area where the forend attaching lug is and rearward. Another would be the front of the forend where there should be the head of a reinforcing screw. If you can talk Craig Libhart into working on your gun, let him do all woodwork, including the proper fixing of the stock head, the finishing, and the recoil pad installation. The attachment of the grip cap with many pins is a result of the person working on the stock not knowing how the cap was originally installed, which was not with a multitude of pins. Classy looking though.

We really haven't seen pictures of the forend checkering pattern from the sides and bottom. Don't worry, we won't get tired of giving you information or viewing your pictures. If you don't want to face the restoration of the wood parts of this Parker, you would have no trouble selling it in its present condition.

OK, here are the required pictures - I hope. If I missed something, let me know, and I'll take more.

I'm mailing the PGCA letter request today, and as soon as I can get the current butt plate off, I'll do the measurements of the actual wood.

I measured the wood on the end of the butt stock, and it's 1 5/8" by 4 5/8".

With the added piece to raise the comb, I'm thinking now that an original pad won't work, but maybe you can tell me if that's true.

I used to hate that curved Morgan Recoil Pad. To even call it a recoil pad is obscene.

Personally, I wouldn't try and put on a original recoil pad if you plan on shooting it a lot. I'd put on a KickEzz or Decelerator for more comfort.

Take the pad off and trace the butt on a piece of paper. Take that paper to a gunshop that sells recoil pads. Match the pad up with the outline on the paper. Make sure you get one oversized slightly so it can be ground down to fit.

I agree that the Morgan pad is ugly, and I'd still love to get an original pad.

I doubt if I'll ever shoot the gun - I'll either keep it as a family heirloom or sell it. Either way, the Morgan has to go.

Here is a source for either original or reproduction pads. I would think any of the pads other than the ones for Winchester would be period correct. Others may give other sources and answers.

http://www.csmcspecials.com/category_s/18.htm

I can't figure out the picture of the forend lug. Can you give us a picture of the forend lug and area toward the breech from an angle directly toward the barrels, not at an angle.

Bill, If you look at the breech end of the lug the radius would indicate the beavertail forend lug which would be correct. A splinter lug is straight across there.

Yup, that is clearly the one-piece reinforced forend lug.

Looks all original Parker yo me. A genuine Silver's pad might be a good choice as well.

Best Regards, George

I have an additional picture showing the top of the receiver, so I thought I'd add it. Don't know if it helps anything, but I figure it can't hurt.

When I was looking at the picture of the lug, I was creating an optical illusion in my mind. Yes, the beavertail forend was a factory installation. By the way, a double trigger Trap is a scarce combination. Most Traps were equipped with the Parker single trigger. By now, you should be getting private messages from people who would offer to purchase your gun. If you pay dues to the PGCA, you will save money on your letter and also have the privilege to offer your gun for sale on the Members section of the website.

Really? I am having a hard time believing Parker would have made a Monte Carlo stock by splicing a piece on top, or the adjustable butt plate. I agree, a Silvers, Jostam or Noshok pad would look correct.

Hi Bill. Thanks for the advice. FYI, I joined the PGCA a very short time ago, and mailed the research letter request yesterday.

You are right on the purchase offers. I'm already hearing from other members, and I haven't even listed it for sale.

I've really been impressed by the number of members that have jumped in to advise me on the gun. I'm wrestling with whether to keep it as a family heirloom or just sell it. I'm 69-years-old, and if anything happens to me, my wife won't have a clue of how to dispose of it - and my several other guns.

If anyone you know might have an interest in the Parker, please point them in my direction.

Here are my contact options:

Wayne Clifton
Pittsburgh, PA
Home - 412-488-3030
Cell - 412-551-5910

Probably an area that I overlooked in this whole exchange is the trigger situation. When I received the gun, it has a single "release" trigger. The risk of someone picking up the gun without knowing that seemed to be a risk that I wasn't willing to take, so I sent the gun to Larry DelGrego in New York. He said that he had a set of original Parker double triggers, so I had him swap them.

I don't understand. What was your concern?
I went back and looked at the original post, and I missed it before, but it looks like the whole floorplate was swapped out, as the single trigger floorplate differs from the double trigger floorplate. I hope he returned your Single trigger, floorplate, etc, as that is worth a lot by itself, and certainly to anyone who buys the gun, for originality. The floorplate is serial numbered to the gun.

I agree totally with your second point Edgar.

However, I understand Wacliffton's concern over the release trigger should someone unfamiliar with the gun attempt to use it.

It's been so long that I was an 'active' clay shooter, I pretty much forgot about true release triggers, although I never owned a gun with one anyway. I started out life, at least as shotguns were concerned, as a live bird shooter, and going back and forth between clays, and complex competition guns would have been a distinct issue.
I have to assume if the OP's gun was owned by an active trap shooter, then he found a gunsmith who could fit such a mechanism into a Parker, but certainly it's so new a contraption, I can't imagine Parker ever offered such a tarnation.
I guess I have to agree, in retrospect, it would have been a pretty dangerous contraption to someone unfamiliar, though, at least for me, picking up another man's gun without permission is a no-no.
I still have trouble transitioning from a pair to a single. I still love my old 101 skeet gun, but being somewhat of a curmudgeon, think single triggers belong on rifles.

Trap guns with release triggers always have decal on the stock or barrels announcing it is a release. Is that a "Rule", or just common sense?

This gun never had a decal that I ever saw. However, knowing the owner as I do (did), he probably thought that it detracted from the beauty of the gun.

There is no rule, at least in ATA trapshooting. It is however a good idea. There are to many modern trap guns that look almost identical. The decals are usually orange and have a big R in the middle and are usually on the bottom of the pistol grip. It's very unlikely that someone now would pick up the wrong Parker unless you were at a vintage shoot but I understand the OP for siding on the side of safety.