Restored DH 10
 

Brad Bachelder did the wood and metal. Craig Smith did the barrels a couple of years ago. Unfortunately I can't seem to find any of the before pictures. All the screws in the sides of the action were buggered and replaced, a significant wood repair was done on the left cheek area and a brass pin removed. The case colors match the colors of the inside of the gun that were not totally abliterated by lots of use. It is on a 3 frame 1892 mfg and about 10 lbs with full/full chokes. It has been the go to Honker gun for a few years and will continue to be.

The last picture is of a little pigeon shoot we had with an Ithaca Mag 10 with 34" bbls, Lefever 10 and Parker DH10.

That is a beautiful gun. Love the fishtail toplever too. :cool:

it would be my honker gun too...very nice gun and in my beloved 10 bore.... charlie

My wife is supposed to get me some RST duck loads for my recently acquired 10 gauges for the upcoming season. Looking forward to it. :shock:

Very nice Kurt, now you need a good Grouse/Woodcock gun:whistle:

Kurt ,Very ,Very Nice ,a beautiful gun ! I have two guns at Brads ,I hope mine turn out as well ! Russ

Well, I have the GH 20 ga for them little birds. Speaking of which, I put up a woodcock behind the house last weekend when I was pulling sap buckets and also had one fly over the house when I went out at dawn last night. The timberdoodles have arrived in central MI. Turkeys are strutting and the Dark Sweet Cherry, Peach and Plum trees started to bloom today. I am pretty worried that the young fruit will get froze and I won't have any fruit next fall.

Someday I will have a D grade 16 and 20 to add to the D grade collection.

Kurt

Ummmm, I'm struggling with this one.

Certainly one of the nicest restorations I've ever seen.

Don't worry Edgar I was having a problem with that one too:shock:

Kurt were you up late last night and can't tell evening from morning..:rotf::whistle:

Kurt,

You mentioned the screws being buggered up. I bought a set of replacement screws for a future project gun. The heads of the screws are over sized (head lenghth not head diameter or overall length). Any suggestions for for how to uniformly hone the machine screws down to the nice rounded cone that the origninals have?

I would like to do this myself and not have to take them to a smith.

Beautiful restoration BTW.

Sorry....looks like my proof reader was out to lunch. Please change to "dusk"...

Kurt

Larry, I did the same thing several years ago. They are still setting in a drawer. I am not a machinist and have no metal lathe. I should just give them to Brad.

Kurt

just chuck them up in a drill,turn it on and file the back side to lower the screw down until the slots line up and than take some off the top to flush out to floor plate. for dia. do the same with a file. scott

Thanks Scott, Sounds like a great idea. After the file what do you use to polish the heads?

Kurt

Shaping and Polishing Screws
 

Regarding loading the screws/bolts in a drill, great idea, you could load them in a press with tape around the threads. The final polishing could be done while loaded in the press or drill with a dremel buffing wheel and the various metal buffing compounds. You can get the compounds in various sticks that vary from abrasive to just polish.

I have used the polishing compounds many times on other restorations, but the drill ides is perfect since you need somthing to make sure the screw or bolt stays steady so as to end up with a uniform cone. I am sure this is just like wood working where patience is the key to get the end result you will like.

Another thought would be to load the screw or bolt in the dremel and steady your hand on the bench placing the shaping tool or sandpaper block in a vice. You don't want to heat the item up so as to scorch it, so slow and steady will be the key. I will try these various methods with the scrap stainless steel screws I have in my stock and let you know how it works out.

Thanks!

I'm confused (an icreasingly common phenomenon, these days). I thought the "fat headed" screws were intended to be set in the gun, then marked for indexing, and after cutting off the top of the screw, recutting a slot in the proper orientation.

Scres and bolts
 

I only have two parkers both Trojans and the bolts which are factory original are not "flat" or even with the surface of the frame, rather tapered even with the frame.

Correction, the trigger plate bolts are flush.

Some receiver screws on single traps are filed flat.

Kurt
The gun is lovely , it has been restored nicely and the case colours do make the very nice D grade engraving standout much nicer than a silver receiver .
The left side of the stock now has an invisible repair, Brad did a better than excellent job!
The restoration work looks top shelf to me , and I see you are enjoying the gun!
Dave Kerns PGCA member #1691