Looking for advice on repair
 

Greetings from Alabama and thanks for the helpful and very informative site.

I have a Parker 12ga that has been in my family since new. I believe the stock was replaced many years ago and is not original . The story is that the gun hung on the wall in the living room and my Grandmother's (she was a little girl at the time) night gown hung on the gun. She pulled her nightgown and the gun fell, breaking the stock.

The gun has misfired with me in the past. It will still shoot, just will go off sometimes (not every time) when the breech is being closed. I took it to a local gunsmith who has been in business for 50 years. He disassembled the gun and was unable to repair it because he could not find the necessary part. He said the cocking piece was worn out and should be replaced. He recommended sending the gun to Briley's for repair. He said he had used Briley's in the past with excellent results. He also told me that the gun is in good shape other than the worn cocking piece.

My question- given the current condition and grade of the gun, who would you recommend to repair the gun? I am not trying to have the gun restored, but I would like to be able to shoot it.

Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions.

Additional information: The gun would still shoot before I took it to the gunsmith. Now it will not cock. I just got it back from the gunsmith yesterday. Not sure what he did that now it will not cock. I know it would cock before I took it to him.

I would appreciate any advice on who you would recommend to make repairs to this gun.

He probably put something back in upside down... a real "novice" move :shock:

You are probably right on the upside down.

Now that it won't work at all, I would like to send or preferably take it to someone who will repair it. I am located near Birmingham, AL. Any suggestions on who to take it or send it to?

Abe Chaber in Connecticut fixed mine after I reassembled it with a part 'upside down' and he wasn't too hard on me for my mistake... he even suggested I might be an amatuer.

That's not too bad - I guess I've graduated from "novice". :smiley7:

Thanks for the information. How would I get in touch with Abe?

Do you know of anyone a little further south than CT? I would really like to take the gun to someone if possible instead of shipping it.

Second Choice
 

I have used Brad Bachelder for repairs. Web site is:

bacheldermastergunmakers.com/Bachelder_Master_Gunmakers/

Without question, there are very likely competent gunsmiths closer to you, but It's my experience that the recomendations you get here will be for men who are most familiar with Parkers. Kinda like you not taking your Ford to the Chevy dealer,just because they were closer. CT isn't that far after you put it in the post. Also, Brad Batcheldor is a well known SxS man, who knows his way around these guns.

Google Darlington Gun Works in South Carolina. I haven't had them do work for me but many on this forum have and highly recommend them. They should be pretty close to Alabama.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I will follow up with them.

Just curious- in looking at pictures of other VH guns about the same age as mine, the trigger guards seem to only have one screw into the stock while mine has two. They also seem to all have the serial number engraved on the trigger guard strap while mine does not.

Any ideas on why my trigger guard has two screws and no serial number?

I would second Chuck. Darlington Gun Works is located near I-95 and does excellant work. Jim Kelly is the owner and gunsmith. Their phone number is
(843) 393-3931.

Best Regards, George

It's not the first one to have two screws placed in them by a jack of all trades. Probably the original screw (closest to the triggers) could not be tightened, the wood having been stripped out, or number two it could not be tightened due to a split inside down the middle of the stock. Instead of fixing it, they get out grandpa's drill and place another hole right in the serial number with a second screw. At least if it was a split inside down the middle they did not place a bolt through the stock head also. I've got one with two screws like that I'm fixing now with a another trigger guard and another where they driled the original hole even bigger and put a monster next size screw in it.

It usually only occurs to them how to fix it after the damage was done and then someone tells them to fix the stock and then they won't need a second screw. But in 1950, who cared?

Go back to your local gunsmith and see if he has any parts "left over" following his work. An easy piece to leave out which would account for the gun not cocking is the cocking slide - #13 on the parts list you can view by going to the home page of this site and selecting Technical Information from the menu on the left.

And it would be easy to tell if the cocking slide was left out because when you opened the action, the lever would not stay to the right, since the trip/pin/spring slide into the little dimple on the cocking slide and without pressure from the cocking slide the three parts would just be dropped down into the action.

Thanks for all the help. The lever does stay to the right when I open the breech. I assume this means the cocking slide is in there.

It is interesting that I can see no trace of the serial number on the trigger guard. I guess it must have been buffed away when the extra screw was added?

Not necessarily Geoff. The two aren't connected. It just means that the lever latching pin is in there, that, when depressed, releases the top lever.

Edgar, Not to argue the point, but even if you flipped the gun upside down and got the trip to hold the lever open one time, once it was closed the trip /spring/pin would just fall into the action since it rides on the slide. See the little indentation on the slide? That's where the pin seats when opened. And the slide is what keeps the upward pressure on the three parts. We just fixed one where someone flattened the pin and took a file to the trip where the barrel lug presses down to release the trip. Could not find new parts so it works only so well now. That is why one should hold the lever when closing and then release to reduce the wear on these unavailable small parts. Not the best design. Just my observations and if I am wrong please let me know here in a cold goose blind by myself.

I was revering to part 20, which is the lever latch.

Damn touchscreen keyboard.

Yep, part 20, actually three parts: trip/spring/pin. Held in place from below by part 13, cocking slide. The pin facing downward with pressure from the spring slides into the little indentation in the cocking slide upon opening. The top part of 20 (trip) by the little spring's pressure slides into the half-moon notch cut into the bottom of part 15, "Square top bolt." Without the cocking slide in there it would not work at all.

Of all the parts on a Parker that are a universal size and almost always need replacing, I wish someone made a repro of these three parts by the thousands. Most every gun could use new part 20. While we are wishing, would also love new roll pin screws (18), especially the heads. The other end of the screw can be reworked but the heads are time consuming and difficult to fix.

I defer to your experience, and you're right on. I have been inside these guns alot, but lately I've noticed my CRS medication not keeping up.

Is there a way to tell if the parts you mention are missing without taking the action apart? Not sure I want to attempt disassembly.

An interesting thing to notice in your photos is that the trigger plate is not sitting flush with the frame in the front up by the dolls head portion. This is a good indication that something may be put together incorrectly on the inside.

The two screws in the guard is a shame. Looks like it may have been done when the stock was replaced. Maybe whoever did it was having a hard time getting the back of the guard tang to lay down. Other than that, I canno think of a reason as to why. That could be corrected by welding up and grinding back down the rear hole.

The gun has some nice heavy plumb patina. You usually don't see them worn that heavily.

The Gun is a V grade, making it lower on the value scale. But it is certainly worth getting back into safe shooting condition.

People often fail to clean the frame groove and trigger plate before replacing the trigger plate. Invariably, there is old oil in the gap, which when the trigger plate is put back on, gets pushed into the inside corner, preventing the trigger plate from seating at the correct depth.

Nice gun regardless and hope it finds the good gunsmith it deserves

Thanks for all the help. I think I have decided I will need to ship it to someone for repairs. I spoke with Larry DelGrego and with Dewey Vicknair. Sounds like either one of them could knock it out. I am looking forward to getting the gun back in shooting condition.

I also have the old tags from the gun. Here is a picture.

Just curious- The tag says the RH barrel targets 125 pellets and the left targets 220 pellets. Does anyone know what this corresponds to in choke? i.e. modified, imp cyl, etc?

That's about Improved and Modified.

Hello, Gentlemen! New member here. I saw this thread and would love some advice. My husband inherited a Parker from his grandfather (1878) and would like to have a qualified gunsmith look at it to clean, restore, etc. Any such person in the Indianapolis, IN area? Many thanks! Dorie Greene

Hello Dorie, and Welcome!

Before you do anything with/to the gun please show us some pictures and give us the serial number. Sometimes a Parker should just be left alone as anything done to it could reduce its value.

Hello, for me when ever I have any big parker moves rather repair or buying my first choice is Brad Bachelder. I'm sure there's other's who are very good also, I just look at brad as a parker man with a great deal of experience and knowledge.

Dorie- fyi I sent my gun to Larry DelGrego for repair. I was pleased with the results.

Don't leave us hanging after all the advice you got from us Geoff. What did DelGrego say was wrong with the gun?

Oops sorry I did forget to report back on that!

Since that was about 3 years ago, I went back and looked at the repair estimate that Larry sent me.

He quoted the following:
1. Rechambering the 2.5" chambers to 2.75",
2. Repair/refinish/blue/engrave the guardbow,
3. Recut sears, repair double triggers,
4. Repair safe
5. Tighten, clean, lubricate, and test.
Seems like he said the misfires were caused by the sears being worn.

I have shot the gun several times since the repair and it really shoots great. The stock dimensions seem to fit me better than anything else I own. When I got the gun back it was really tight. It may have loosened up a little, but not much. No misfires or problems at all.

Sorry for the delay but a big Thank You to all of the respondents! Will be getting that rifle to one of the suggested guys. (as a surprise birthday gift to Hubby! Dorie

I live in Atlanta and sent my gun to Larry DelGrego in New York. Very pleased with the work
Check for particulars on Google. Long time 3 generation Parker experience