Here's a Trojan I just acquired...
 

If you can see through rust! It's a 20 ga with ejectors and the wood is not too bad except for a chipped buttstock (bottom of buttplate is broken off too)

Pics speak for themselves...I will be attempting to bring it back to shooter status but not sure to what extent yet!

This was my girlfriend's Dad's shotgun...after he passed it ended up in a nephew's basement in Rhode Island...a damp basement I would assume!
I think it's a damned shame that this did not go to someone appropriate, as far as firearms ownership...

What am I missing, ejectors on a Trojan, I don't see evidence of them in the pictures.

Very sad that it was allowed to rot in someone's basement, it was someone's pride and joy once upon a time.

Well...perhaps I'm calling ejectors the little tab that ejects the shells when the shotgun is opened...it's located under the barrels and is fitted in there quite nicely. Forgive me if I am using the wrong terminology! If you look at the picture showing the chambers (as in looking into the breech) it is located right there at the bottom of the chamber orifices...that "ejector" is right there under the rust! By the way I only added that it has "ejectors " because I had read someone else's description of a shotgun...apparently they all don't have ejectors so you need to remove the shells with your fingers?? Again, excuse my ignorance as I am a newbie side by side owner...

Okay, I just did a search on "ejectors" and saw a photo of something my gun does not have....perhaps mine has "EXTRACTORS" as someone on one of those searches pointed out...sorry for the confusion...learning the terminology as I go! :bigbye:

Your gun has extractors rather than ejectors which kick the empties out of the chambers when the gun is opened. Extractors simply pull the shell out of the chamber a very short distance so one can pull them out with one's fingers. Ejectors were not an option on Trojan grade guns.

However......anything is possible, we recently were treated to another 20 ga Trojan with 30" barrels when all records said no such thing existed.

Don't worry about not knowing details at this stage of your find. There are plenty of people that will help you learn the myriad of Parker in and outs which no person can know 100%. However I must warn you that lowly Trojan 20ga is dangerous.........it's like a gateway drug..........once you start looking after it and if it's shootable and you take out......well you are going to be compelled to find more Parkers :)

Please , If that is oil keep it off the wood !!

Yes it was oil and I kept wiping it off...eventually I removed the stock so as not to expose it to the oil.
Seems that the stock was very dark in that area anyway which would attribute that a previous owner oiled the wood too...I guess..??

How truly you speak, my good man!
Already I have visions of sugar plum, Parkers dancing in my head...but alas...those will have to wait...until I finish this one!

Petroleum based oil destroys the fiber of wood. Makes it punky and the result is the stock "breaks" where it meets the receiver. The only thing that should be put on the wood is a mix of Murphy's Oil Soap and a rag. Go easy with that too. In fact take it easy with all the gun cleaning accessories in your picture. Don't touch any screws without using proper fitting screw drivers. Often times a good brushing of the barrels with some hoppes #9, some Murphy's Oil Soap and water, on the stock, using a tooth brush with it in the checkering is all that is needed. Leave cleaning internals to a competent gunsmith. Best to have it looked at by the same before firing too.

I don't mean for this to sound like a lecture. Your gun is antique and many antiques have been ruined and their value decreased by someone trying to make it better.

I agree...thanks for the reminder! Easy to get carried away when I have a project like this...

Here is the condition of the wood...
 

Looks to be not too bad except for some scratches and a chip on the butt plate...

More wood

By the way, what kind of wood is this? Did they use the same type on all Trojans?
Seems similar to mahogany (by the grain)

American Black Walnut

Ahhh walnut!
I should have known. Should refinish nicely!

Yeah, that buttstock will clean up nicely. Will be a fine gun once put back together. And Yowsers, that rust is something else! Hopfully it has not done too much damage.

Thanks!
What method of "cleaning up" this stock would you recommend?
I have used Murphy's on it and nothing seemed to happen so it is fairly, clean, dirt-wise but I hate scratches on firearms...;o)
Do you thing sanding and actually, refinishing is the way to go, or leave it as is and just use it?
I am also thinking about sending it somewhere to have a professional job done with some rust bluing of the barrels and maybe some case coloring done (nothing too costly but I will spend some reasonable $$. I have most of the rust eliminated already and it looks decent. Need a professional opinion, though, to take it further to "shooter" status...

Do NOT sand it. Use a solvent to remove the old finish if you want to refinish it. Recut the checkering if you wish but do it correctly. When it is just how you want it then apply the finish, be it a nice oil finish or shellac or French polish.

It's your gun, do as you please. A Trojan is a fine gun but few are collectors pieces. Know that what you spend on restoring will not be returned if you sell it. You have a nice gun but there is nothing unique about it (I do not mean that to be an insult). There are two schools of thought, leave as is or restore (not refinish). Sometimes people do partial restorations to replace what is broken, such as barrels worn silver, checkering worn smooth. Some think recasing is risky, warping a frame. Fresh case colors look nice, they are expensive and they start to wear almost immediately. If you decide to restore start slow, do one thing at a time. Perhaps a barrel brown, and or a freshening up of the checkering. Looks like the toe of the stock is chipped, perhaps add a period correct pad and change the LOP to what you want. I have some orginal guns myself, I have had a gun fully restored and others partially restored. It's all been part of Parker collecting and shooting tuition. Going forward I will probably only do partial restoration of guns that I plan to keep and shoot, I doubt I would ever recase a gun again. Refinishing barrels, freshening up checkering and cleaning up boogered screws gives the best bang for the buck on making a badly worn or abused Parker pop.

Thanks...good advice! This Parker will not be sold in my lifetime, I can assure that!
What happens after I'm scattered to the four winds is anyone's guess but my last will and testament will say that my guns will be taken care of for sure...

Is it unusual for a Trojan to have a rib extension?

Chuck, Trojan grade guns made up to around 1920 had the rib extention. After that no more extention... A cost cutting measure by the Bros. P

Sorry...don't know what a rib extension is...:whistle:

Ron, Look to the breech end of the barrels. The protrusion that fits into the slot cut in the frame is the rib extension.

Thank you! Now I see it! :)

I would use a rust remover on the completely disassembled action on this one. I'd also use rust remover on the bores/chambers so they could be assessed better. Possibly use rust remover on the outside of the barrels too, if the blueing is toast, also to assess them for pitting that might make this a non-shooter.

The action is disassembled and amazingly, no rust inside at all.
Gummed up with oils was all. Now clean as a whistle inside.
The barrel and face of the receiver have been de-rusted as well.
No bluing left on the barrel now..was heavily pitted and really deep in one small area....will have to have this assessed by a pro, Bores are looking good and shiny but have some stubborn spots in a small area past the chambers...not bad though in my estimation. Just trying to decide where to go for some finish work that won't set me back too many $$.

I really like the look of case coloring the receiver and blued barrels.