Parker Trojan Buttplate
 

I am a new member and own a 16 guage Trojan. The gun is in great shape, but my grandfather fitted it with a butt pad and did a very poor job of it. Normally I would not alter such a gun, but the damage was done so I am working some refinishing work. Though I am an amature, I am very experienced with restoring old guns so I have removed the finish from the forend and the stock and steamed out all of the dents and scratches in the wood. I have sanded the stock just enough to remove the "butcher" job that was done on the butt pad (checkering was not touched, but has wear).

Are there replacement butt ends available or should I proceed with a limbsaver or kickease replacement butt pad? I can make these look factory professional. I still use this gun for quail and dove hunting and would like a limbsaver butt pad to tame the kick. I will never sell this gun, it has too much sentimental value. I love the gun and will pass it on to my grandson.

Should I have the checkering restruck and even added to? My goal is to have the gun still have an old shotgun look. It is not my goal to make it look like new and an obvious restoration. The barrells are 90 to 95% and I do not plan to reblue. I was thinking of a case hardened finish for the frame with blued trigger guard.

Again, I am new and apprecieate any and all opinions even if you disagree with what I am doing.

Thanks

Larry

Larry, welcome to the PGCA.

How about taking some pictures of your Trojan? Make them as close and in focus as possible of the area's of concern such as the butt and checkering and any other area's you have a question about.

As to what kind of pad you should put on, why not both? Galazan has replacement butt plates for the Trojan. They probably can recommend the proper screws too. I've never used Limbsaver pads, I like Kickeez, put I'm sure the Limbsaver's are good too. Fit both, it only takes a few minutes to change them out.

If your going to refinish your stock, I'd use shellac and oil (French Polish.) I'm not sure if Trojans had shellac originally but shellac was used predominantly on the rest of the Parker grades.

Part of the decision on the butt treatment should take into account the length of pull. Did grandpa cut the stock? If so, you'll probably need some sort of pad. If it wasn't cut, the butt plate could be the answer. Assuming that you will (shoiuld) be shooting low pressure loads, recoil shouldn't be an issue.

Thanks for the input. I am on assignment and will post some pics in a couple of weeks when I get home. Fortunately the stock was not cut; however the wood where the very old butt pad was installed was very marred. I was able to raise it with steam and sanded it with 400 grit paper. I am very patient and carefull and had this on my bench for six months. I really love the fiddle and beauty of these old walnut stocks. Since I am going to continue to use the gun I will probably put a limbsaver on it. I put a limbsaver on my Encore blackpowder and it removed 50% of the kick. Yes, I only shoot low base dove and quail loads and sometimes pheasant and grouse loads.

I am looking forward to learning a lot more about Parkers and hope to purchase another one, even one that needs restoration.

Thanks again!

Yeah, that is a major concern is if the stock was cut for that recoil pad that was put on. The original stock should have a curve to it. If it is straight, then it has been cut.

The original style trojan buttplates can be had through Vintage Gun Grips. You can buy directly from them, or other sources such as midway USA or even Ebay have them too.

If the buttstock has been cut straight, and you can work with the length of pull that it currently has, you can always install a Fox or LC Smith buttplate on there. They are flat and have the same look as the Trojan buttplates.

If the LOP is too short, I would just go with a new recoil pad. A vintage type pad will be good, or the Pachmyer old english pads always look good.

In regards to the checkering, if you are going to touch it up, do it last. After the finish. The Trojan chckering was not fulling pointed up. A 60 degree fine cutter works well for this. And as always, the mullered border is the trickiest part.

Yes, the french polish would be considered correct. But nearly any finish can be used. I have personally been liking the results of Linspeed lately.

Larry - "Low Base Dove Loads" don't necessarily mean low pressure. Low pressure loads from specialty providers like RST shells are truly low pressure shells

Big D,

Thanks for the comment. Do I really need to worry about the low pressure shells with a Parker Trojan manufuctured in 1914? I am a reloader of pistol, rifle, and shotgun loads and understand the concept of chamber pressure. I never really thought about it and since my barrels are not damascas I was not worried. I have some vintage 38 cal pistols and only shoot low pressure loads due to the strength of the steel when the guns were manufactured. My parker action is tight and this gun has only been used three times for quail hunting in the past 25 years. I use a number of modern shotguns for rabbit, quail, and pheasant.

I certaninly have a lot to learn about Parker Shotguns and appreciate you comments. I only have 12 gage and 20 gage reloaders and would not mind reloading 16 guage in the future. It would be fun to make up low pressure loads specifically for my 16 gauge Trojan.

I have been looking for my "next" Parker, but will learn alot more before I purchase.

There's the Jostam pad also.

The Trojan fluid steel will hold up to modern loads with no problems considering they are sound. I think that most of us like to shoot low pressure loads because they are all around easier on our guns, and shoulders.

It's kind of an insurance policy to make sure that they will last for another 100 years.

Larry, in a recent conversation with the Kickeez company, I asked if they had a recoil pad in a more traditional red. (I've an older VH 12 gauge)
They replied they are getting ready to manufacture some pads in a "red-orange" that look very traditional. You may want to contact them.
There is no doubt that the newer recoil pads such as Kickeez or Limbsaver really work in reducing recoil, especially when compared to a butt plate or some of the traditional looking red pads that are almost like a brick in texture.

Sam Ogle, Lincoln, NE

Brian's commenta are exactly what I would have written. Great minds think alike

larry: in order to preserve the wood on your old trojan, keep your loads light and your screws tight....

[QUOTE=Brian Dudley;60594]Yeah, that is a major concern is if the stock was cut for that recoil pad that was put on. The original stock should have a curve to it. If it is straight, then it has been cut.

Brian, I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't believe the Trojan had a curved butt like higher grades with the DHBP. At least all that I've seen were straight cut on the wood but the plate itself had a slight curve where it would contact your shoulder.

Just checked my trojan 12 and it has a curved butt plate. It is original. The wood is cut curved. Dave

They were curved. The original buttstock from my trojan is like that too. They just didn't have a spur and they are a bit narrower in width compared to the higher grades.

Thanks for setting me straight:banghead: I was looking at the examples in the Trojan Grade Identification section plus some on the internet and to my eyes they looked straight but my eyes aren't what they used to be!

Thank you everyone for the responses. I contacted Turnbull today and boy they spent a lot of time on the phone with me discussing the options I have for finishing the stock and forend as well as redoing the checkering. Am I correct in assmuming Turnbull has an outstanding reputation? I almost considered a company in my own area (Yuba City, CA) but saw some very bad press on the Internet thus the call to Turnbull.

Althought I have restored several 1903A3s, 1903s, many rifles, and many inexpensive shotguns, I am very nervous about screwing up my only Parker. I have decided to leave the final touches to Turnbull.

I am definetely going to look into RST shells and my own reloading recipies to make sure I preserve this gun.

Wow, those guns are beauties. What guages are they?