Disassembly problem
 

Hello, I am unalbe to remove the barels on my Parker Trojan. I have read about it before and have tried pulling both triggers and then trying to no avail. The pin in the reciever is flush and does not appear to move. I have put the PB Blaster to for now. Any thoughts? Thanks!

Have you got the forend off? The pin doesn't move the barrles rotate on it.

I can get the forearm off. I'm not referring to hinge, but a small circular pin in the end of the action that is revealled when the forearms comes off.

I just looked at my Trojan MY pin is stickin out I believe that is the cocking pin. When you pull your triggers do the hammers drop make sure it is empty and i'm sure you would. Does it recock?

That is the pin. It is flush with the reciever and does not move, yet the gun funtcions fine and will recock and fire.

The retracted pin indicates a stuck cocking hook mechanism that is not retracting to release the barrels.
Soak the end of the pin with Breakfree CLP and also apply the CLP inside the receiver at the bottom of the trigger plate front.
Be patient and eventually the CLP will disrupt the crud and rust "freezing" up the mechanism. When the pin starts to exit the receiver front gently assist its exit adding more CLP.
Bob Jurewicz

Here is the little devil wanting a drink of a fine penetrating oil. It is definitely "stuck" as it should protrude from the front of the frame, not be flush, when the action is open. This particular VH was completely seized with rust and "crud". All metal was soaked for a long time to begin to free up the parts. The screw that holds this group in place has a small head. I used jeweller's screwdrivers to finally remove it to clean off all contaminants, as well as the bore through which it moves.

Cheers,
Jack

http://parkerguns.org/forums/picture...pictureid=1475

After soaking overnight in penetrating oil, you can bang on the receiver with a heavy plastic or hard rubber mallet to try and jar the mechanism loose so that the spring pressure will disengage it.

As an aside, on another forum there was a discussion about a study done by the ASE to evaluate the effectiveness of several types of penetrating oils. The best performing penetrating oil (i.e. freed a rusty nut/bolt with the least torque required) to be a 50/50 mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone.

Jim

I have had sucess with PB Blaster too

Me, too. It's a good product. In fact it's what's on my bench right now.

Jim

On some Parkers, with the barrels as open as you can force them, the screw retaining the cocking hook can be removed, freeing up the barrels. Can you see the entire head of this big screw on the left side of the barrel lug with the barrels open?

Hi Bill, I can, however I can only get the screw to rotate 90 degrees and it freezes. I put the BP to that as well.

I shot 75 rounds through it today to loosen it up as well. I am getting frustrated as I want to send it out to Mike Orlen for a choke job and have it back for Ocotober!!

Update:
My former smith freind helped me out! He ground a srcrew driver to fit the screw in the lug and go it out. He is going to open her up and clean it out. Thanks for the help guys.

Good, now what was that about a choke job.

She is going in for surgery, .000 and .012. Grouse and Woodcock.

Have you tried spredder loads?

Yup, they were ok, $15 a box. Modified and Full do nothing for me as this gun will never see the salt or swamp.

Micah, You can load your own spreaders. I have several tightly choked Parkers that when the situation calls for I load with spreaders. In fact my grouse and woodcock 20 gauge Trojan has factory chokes of Mod/Full and spreaders do a wonderful job.

Thanks for the sugestion, however, I really have no desire to load 12's or 20's. I load for rifles pistols and 10 gauge. I bought the gun to hunt it. It hasn't been used in 30 years, it's too young to die on a wall.

Good to hear-
 

I've been using a 50-50 mix of Kroil and acetone for years for a rust/crud soak and it works- acetone has a dangerous flash point, so well ventilated and spark free areas are of concern- as our friends in the German Gun Collectors might say- "Rauchen Verbotten"!!!:cool::cool:

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who chimed in, including the use of spreaders! Great suggestion, if I had any thoughts of ever putting the tighter chokes to use I would definetly go that route. The gun is in good mechanical shape but isn't really a collector grade. Thanks!

As time progresses, any remaining Parker Bros will achieve collector grade status. The beautiful safe queens will pass along most likely in that state; however, good shooters will become harder and harder to come by and thus achieve collector status - not for our time on the planet, but in the fullness of time no doubt.

I think you are right. I feel very lucky to have one. My former smith friend who helped me out is getting some tanks to do some rust bluing. He brought a Parker absolutely back to life including manufacturing a new stock, the checkering job is flawless. I'm a lucky guy to have him as a freind who simply loves old doubles. He keeps telling me I need an LC Smith next.

I'm thinking, maybe, of shaping her up in time. He called earlier today to tell me he cleand out the inards. They were thick with an almost varnish like substance he said. All better now!

He got me on to older American guns afrer doing a trigger job on my CZ Bobwhite. He said it is a decent gun, but not as nice as the older American guns. Boy was he right! I found my Trojan within a week of our conversation. $550 OTD!