Barrel Length and Forearm Question
 

Looking for a little help on Ser # 195050

Original barrel length?

Also, is there a trick to removing the forearm? It seems really tight and I don't want to risk breaking it.

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There is usually a line and blank space at the end of the barrel. I believe those barrels have been shortened. I've never removed a Trojan forearm but I'm pretty sure you pull the tip of the forearm away from the barrels to remove.

I should have noted, this is 20 ga current BL 26"

195050 should have 26” barrels.

Trojan forends, as you've found, require quite a bit of pressure to remove. This tool makes it easy:
https://parkerguns.org/forums/showth...d+removal+tool

Thank you very much!

Contrary to my initial thought they have not been cut. I was under the impression that the rib would have different markings the end. Learned something today.

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Well it should generally have a termination line, but not always. Without one you need to do further research and should be suspicious.

Thank you. Indeed, I have put just enough pressure on it to scare me.

I am new to the forum so not able to view this link. I will google forend removal tool.

My dad received this from a friend that owned it since the mid 1930's. It would have had to been changed before that which I feel is unlikely.

Trojans are very often seen without the rib termination associated with graded Parkers

Sorry Rob I should have been more clear. Parker’s generally have the termination line but it’s not 100%. Without one you would have to consult a letter or the serialization book like I did. I am confident they should be 26”

When the Trojan was introduced the barrel length offerings were 28- and 30-inch in 12-gauge and only 28-inch in 16- & 20-gauge. The 1913 Flyer --

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Those were still the offerings in the 1916 catalog --

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By the 1923 catalog they added 26-inch barrels to all three gauges --

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With all the errors that have been found in that serialization book I'd want a PGCA letter for peace of mind!

Nice little Trojan 20, I happen to like 26" barrels, and always on the lookout for one.

I have one. Bought it from Russ Jackson about five years ago… I love it. The perfect Parker for upland birds in nasty weather.





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I know, I saw that gun but you beat me to it. I have a VH and vhe 20 with 26 and my DHE 16 with 26

Did you get the forend off yet?

When you get the forend off can you post a picture of the serial number on the barrels?

Dean, you have probably answered this, but, do you still have the forend wedges?

Bill, I currently have one remaining but it’s spoken for.
I’ll try to get some more.





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I sent the funds to Mr Romig today for his last removal tool. Will advise once removed .
Thanks all for the input.

Rob

I believe if you open the gun slightly, the fore end will come off more easily. Be sure you’re holding onto the barrels, so they don’t fall when the fore end comes off.

Well sir, that did the trick, thank you. Once opened slightly I was able to remove the forend.
Good news is all number match. Bad news the barrels won’t release. Probably the first time it’s been apart in well over 50 years.
Any other tricks? It feels like there is some spring tension.

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The cocking slide is not going fully forward, so that the cocking hook, on the barrels can release from the crank. Close the gun and fire both barrels, and it should now come unhooked.

When Edgar said fire he means with out any amo in gun '

I assumed that thank you. Sadly it didn't work. It actually created more tension when initially opening the action. Still stuck. Is there a safe lube I can apply before trying again?

Shot it a couple times with snap caps then sprayed it up pretty good with WD. Will wait a few days to see if it frees up.
Anyone know of a gunsmith familiar with Parkers in the Update NY - Buffalo area?



Rob

:knowbetter: I guess I could have said 'drop the hammers'

You shouldn't have used WD40 as it will gum up, attract dirt and eventually harden.

Any suggestions as to a better product?

There are many, I like Clenzoil and/or Rem Oil.

Thanks. I generally use mineral oil which I will use once I get it apart. In this case I am hoping to dissolve whatever is in there now.

Thanks. I generally use mineral oil which I will use once I get it apart. In this case I am hoping to dissolve whatever is in there now.

Appreciate the input . Sadly wasn’t enough. What are your thoughts on loading up and actually taking a few shots with live ammo? Any chance that would loosen her up?

Couldn't hurt.

Here is a plastic tool you can order to help remove the Trojan fore-end.

https://tandyleather.com/products/cr...b3b57246&_ss=r

I wanted to take a moment to thank all who responded. This gun has been sitting for years. I had never been able to find someone locally that could assist with getting it apart and cleaned up. Thanks to you guys and this forum, she's getting her just due.
I found an old post where wd40 had worked for someone with a similar issue. Sprayed it down yesterday. Lo and behold I came home from work today and the barrels about fell right off. Now cleaning off the WD and using proper lube to get this little gem up and running again.
Much appreciated!

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