Cracks in a beaver tail...
 

Hi all, was shooting my Pachmyr GHE a few months ago, and afterwards I noticed a few splits/cracks in its beaver tail forend. Been shooting appropriate loads in it. I have to believe this happens often with old guns, and questionable storage practices before it came into my hands. So, (1) looking for some advice on what to do with it to repair it, and (2) who might be able to also create me a splinter forend for it. Pictures below.

But my thoughts on repair, include either sending it someone to perform the repair, or more likely, I'd think I can remove the metal and use some kind of epoxy or glue on the backside of the cracks. But not sure which type/brand would be best, any thoughts?

Ideas? Thoughts? Recommendations? On both repairing, and finding someone to build me a splinter forend?

Acriglas? Acriglas gel? Hide glue? And then, I assume a very light clamp so as to not "fold in" and expand or make the crack worse.

Attachment 135594 Attachment 135595 Attachment 135596 Attachment 135597

I've used epoxy with good results

With narrow cracks, it's impossible to get the glue to work into the crack fully. I've used superglue (thin) with great results. It will flow into the crack & then clamp. I picked this up from guitar makers repairing thin cracks in guitars. I use 3/8" surgical tubing wrapped under tension to pull the crack together. Sometimes wedges on top or bottom, under the tubing if the surfaces are uneven to keep the cracked pulled together at the correct angle.

Most of the time the inleting is too tight & causes the wood over time & recoil to split. After gluing check the inleting & if too tight re-inlet.

Filling a crack with glue & sawdust is a poor repair & used by amateurs. If it's so large that you can't pull it together, steam it & pull it together & clamp & let dry, then follow the above.

One trick I've used, not on shotguns but on furniture.
After mixing the epoxy and dust, the finer the better, apply the mixture onto the crack and use a vacuum on the other side to suck the mixture into the crack. I've used west systems epoxy, or any 5 min epoxy will work.
Another one is Gel super glue with the wood dust
Or you could try CA glue with activator. That I would mask off the area you are repairing.
There are different colors, so you can find the best match.
All the best,
Harry

Commenting as a complete novice.

I just had fantastic success with “2p-10 thin” carpenters glue filling cracks exactly like this on a GH butt stock near the DHBP. Amazon has it. Are you sure those are new? If not, you might have spotty success due to oil/grime in the cracks.

The “no-risk” way would be to send it to Brian Board.

Do you know the best way to contact Brian Board? info@timberluxe.com?

I never noticed them a few years ago when I obtained the gun. Doesn’t mean they weren’t there, but I’ve never noticed them until recently. So until evidence tells me otherwise I’m going with they are newer cracks.

417-448-4892

My Parker SBT has a crack similar to photo #2; goes from the forend iron to the border of the checkering. Doesn't appear to go any farther and I've never done anything about it. It was there when I bought it; I've shot it a bunch, and it's still there.

Google "Hot Stuff Glue" This is great glue! For your application the "THIN" glue would work best on your cracks.

Hot stuff, crazy glue, & super glue are all cyanoacrylate glue. Hot stuff dries quicker, & crazy glue & super glue are stronger