Early Parker questions
 

I recently came across a Parker 10 gauge at an estate sale. It is an early model produced in 1876. The stock appears to have shims inserted (leather?) between the buttplate and the wood. What are you thoughts on this? Maybe someone added them to lengthen the stock or help with recoil? I am wondering if I remove them will the buttplate still match up to the wood. Please see images and let me know your thoughts.

Yeah, the leather was of course added. For one reason or another.

The butt plate looks like it has its original contours as does the stock with the recess for the spur on the butt plate. I would remove the leather spacers.






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If your going to shoot the gun, is the LOP correct for you as it is? If so, leave it and shoot it.

Thanks for the feedback. I was concerned that the stock or buttplate was modified. Might go ahead and go for it if the price is right. Would $400 be a good guess on the value?

We don't know near enough to appraise that gun.

Early Parker questions
 

A few more images. Any guidance you can give me on the grade or value would be appreciated. Serial number is 8354.

Looks like a grade-0. Sharper pictures might confirm this.





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If it is $400, just buy it.

Have you looked at the bores? If they are not to pitted up I wouldn't hesitate at $400.

The bore's aren't pitted. For the most part bright with a few dark/dirty areas. I think they will clean up. Action is tight. Did Parker stamp the grade type on these? Does anyone make shotgun shells with blackpowder for vintage guns? Obviously I don't want to shoot modern loads in a Damascus barrel.

The gun below the Parker is an LC Smith produced Baker 10 gauge. Might try to get this as well.

The barrels are look Damascus to me, so a Grade 2.

Correct, they are Damascus barrels.

You can shoot "modern" loads in Damascus barrels as long as you stay within the pressures they were originally made for... and this includes modern powders if the cartridges are below about 7,000 psi and are of the appropriate length, which is usually 2 1/2 inches. Most of us with composite barreled Parkers who shoot modern shells have checked our chamber lengths and wall thicknesses to be sure they are safe to shoot. Black powder is not a necessity in these guns as long as the shooter is conscientious about the safety of his gun.





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Early Parker Questions
 

Hello everyone, I am still considering the Parker I mentioned earlier. I am concerned though about the leather shims that were added and if I can put this shotgun back to original configuration. Does the buttplate look correct? If I remove the shims I will probably need shorter butplate screws as the shims are 3/4" thick. How difficult will it be to find original buttplate screws for this model? Finally does $400 or a little less sound ok for this shotgun the way it sits now?

I answered your questions earlier in your first post.





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I was looking for an answer on original buttplate screws. the ones on it now are probably too long once I remove the shims.

True but any replacements you find may need to be fitted.

I may have a couple…






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I kind of like that ten bore.

Again, just buy the gun.

Hey everyone, I pulled the trigger and now own this Parker. Always wanted one......If anyone knows where I can get my hands on a couple of original buttplate screws please let me know. I will work on removing the leather shims this week. As someone noted the contour on the stock and plate seem to match. There is some filler in the buttplate recess on top but shouldn't be too difficult to remove. What was the original wood finish on these? Boiled linseed oil like military guns from this era or something different? Thanks for all of the help, will let you know how this progresses.

I have a pair of G engraved buttplate screws but I won’t be able to put my hands on them for a couple of weeks. Shoot me a PM after the 28th to remind me.





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