Removing blue
 

Just wondering what can be done in the home. If blue is removed, what will remain under there? Are we back at a shiny steel surface or maybe a little patina? Can blue be removed in a slow manner to maybe end up a little less "garish"? Or, is it a complete strip and re-case to get anywhere. Or does one just shoot it and fuggetaboutit.
Here's why I'm wondering. Seller's image. It is a 1912 VHE.

Jack, it should be removed chemically rather than being polished off. If it is polished off you will lose the sharp engraving and border graver walk on that gun. You will probably not have anything under there but 'silver'.

forget about it and were the blue off shooting the gun... charlie

If I get it, I guess that's the way to go. Shoot, shoot, shoot
Cheers,
Jack

I have a blue VH 28 gauge and a blue Remington 30" 16 gauge VHE. I am a little weak to hunt it off, but a younger guy in better shape could do the job. They are two wonderful hunting guns that will probably never see the chemical treatment.

Naval Jelly will remove the bluing, very quickly! Whatever chemical is used, it will leave the metal with a dull appearance, even if it was polished prior to bluing.

Mark is right about the Naval Jelly treatment.

toilet bowl cleaner works too. The surface will be dull and mottled not shiney. I have seen a couple of blued Parkers and I don't think they look bad, just not original.

For those of you who might want to practice on another blued Parker:

http://www.fieldsportltd.com/gunroom....php?gunId=698

The barrels have that plum colored Winchester 21 look.

I'm too slow at auctions and now even on a buy/sell site I watch closely. Somebody else takes a VHE home for - hold your breath my American friends, $450. No, there are no missing zeros. :cuss:

DuLite re-bluing on Winchesters or other guns turns plum colored when the bluing solution is too hot, so I am told.

I have several Winchesters, including 21's, and none are plum colored. All are deep, lustrous black, which was a hallmark of correct Winchesters.

I am not a Parker expert, but personally I do not like blued frames on Parkers, its so incorrect. I was successful with a friend's gun, bought inexpensively because of the bluing, in removing the blue by Naval Jelly, then reducing the silver frame oxidation by Flitz polishing compound. Unless a person overdoes it, the frame will not be too shiny. A little hand wear and field use and the frame will look normal.

I have seen this color on Parkers before, but only on damascus barrels.

Damascus barrels are said to be "browned" which does not necessarily mean that they are brown. Parker damascus barrels were black and white as most people know, but would gradually brown with oxidation. Here are two Bernard pattern damascus barrels that are about the same age but one is more oxidized than the other.

charcoal blue on trigger guard
 

Not sure of the charcoal blueing procedure, what would the outcome be if only the inner side of the trigger guard were to be polished and charcoal blued while leaving the outer surface original with slight browning and slightly visible pits? Also would a 220 or 320 polish be correct? Can this blueing procedure be targeted to specific areas? Thanks in advance, T.

removing bluing
 

Jack
The easiest way that I have found is to dip the parts. We use a solution of 15 % baume Phosphoric acid, cut with 25 % distilled water. Dip for ten minutes, rinse for 3 minutes in hot water. Place the parts in a bath of diluted baking soda, 2 cups to one gallon, for 20 minutes, rinse in cool water, dry parts with air. The parts are totally clean, so, polish and hold right away. Hold is available from Brownells. After stripping the parts will be a dull grey.

Brad

Thanks for the info Brad. Recipe on file

Cheers
Jack

The problem with naval jelly is that it can cause slight etching on polished metal, I found that CLR will remove blue without the etching, best part is you can buy it almost anywhere, even at a grocery store.

This may sound too simple after seeing all these various experiences in taking off bluing, but I just use "bluing remover" by Birchwood Casey. Go figure!

Bill

White Vineger will also remove old bluing from the metal. Best if soaked. It takes a little bit to work, but not too long.

I did a search and found this, which should answer a question in another thread about how to remove blue.

Thanks Robin. The real answer for me I take from this is "send it to Brian or Brad." The below is what would happen if I tried it.

Mills: I love it. You and me both. Were those 3 guys guys great or what? Someone once told me they were silly. My response was "okay?". Bob

I watched them last night which inspired that post. The one where they are supposed to be making rocket fuel or something.

Seriously, I think the answer to my and others' question is the bluing can be taken off relatively easily, but it is best not tried at home unless you know something about the process

Bill,
I'm a bit younger and would be more than happy to wear off some of that VH 28 blue for you.:rolleyes:

No - use at least 600 or even finer if you can find it.





.

When I strip bluing off any gun parts I use Lysol toilet cleaner,Naval Jelly well remove bluing but if left on the parts to long it eat in to the metal and give a French Gray look and now hard to get the metal down to the white.Birchwood Casey blue & rust remover works well,can find in many gun stores. J.J.