Help with a hammerless double barrel teardown
 

I recently inherited a Parker double barrel hammerhead shotgun. Serial number puts it built in 1918 (1820xx). I am trying to inspect and figure out all of the specifics of this unit, but I cannot separate the barrel from the breach. The breach opens, and ejects shells, but unlike my Remington double barrel, the barrels do not rotate far enough to separate. It feels like it hits a stop. I have removed the grip on the front. If you look at the technical page, it feels like the pivot pin infront of "check hook T" and "pin E" (looking at figure 8) is not allowing the barrels to rotate far enough to clear Check Hook T from Pin E.

I have attached a photo of how far I can open the shotgun.

Any ideas what could be stopping me from separating the barrels from the breach? Thank you for your help?

The unhooking slide inside the frame is stuck or gummed up. First try dry firing both barrels and see if that frees it. If not, the trigger plate will have to come off in order to get the barrels off.

And your hammerhead unit is a Trojan grade.

What the heck is that goo between the frame and the stock head??





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Ah, thank you for that information. That was one piece I was after.

As for the test. I tried dry firing and it did not free it up. The barrels feel a little looser, though. So I took the stock off and put liberal amount of oil in the.hammerhead. I am headed out now, but I plan on letting it sit for a bit and see if that helps. What I could see of the inside is fairly dirty, so it will need a good and thorough cleaning.

Thank you for your help.

JB weld. Yeah, I was surprised as well.

my first reaction too. do be careful to fit the stock correctly before attempting to fire...when you get that far. hopefully there isn't epoxy oozing around on the inside where it shouldn't be too.

When the barrels will not come off on a 12 gauge, I have found that often one can get a screwdriver in to remove the screw that is visible in your photo that retains the barrel hook, if you apply pressure as if opening the gun or trying to remove the barrels downward. Please try to use a screwdriver that fits and not bugger up that screw. Once removed you will easily have the screw in hand but do not forget there is a spring behind the hook so don't lose it when the barrels come off. Hope this helps.

That did the trick. I was able to remove the screw and ease the barrels off, and then reinstall the screw, with no loss of the spring.

Now, I've got the unit apart and trying to figure out the best way to clean out all of the grime. Ultrasonic cleaner? Brake clean? PB Blaster? Let it soak in Dawn dishwashing liquid? This is going to take a little time.

As for the stock, I am speaking with someone now about making a replacement stock since that one is packed full of JB Weld and has some weak spots in it.

Thanks for all the help!

After initial scrub with a stiff nylon brush to get the loose crap, use boiling water. Boil the disassembled frame and all your small parts for 30-45min. in clean water. If your tap water has high mineral content, use distilled water (grocery store). 2 things will happen 1) all the old dried lubricants that have cemented with dust/powder residue, etc. will loosen from the metal and be easily brushed away. 2) any active rust on the metal will be converted to bluing. Might take a couple iterations of scrubbing and boiling to get it all, depending on how much rust there is and how deep it is. When it comes out of the boil, let dry and brush off the loose oxide with 0000 steel wool. If you still had colorful case hardening intact, I would be more cautious in my recommendation. But this does not seem to be the case. When you are done, it will still look its proper age, but look well cared for throughout its years rather than neglected. Take a look at my lewis project for what to expect from boiling. There was beautiful twist steel barrels hiding under what looked like an unrecoverable brick of red rust. I did no refinishing at all, just boiling. For the frame, I soaked in evaporust, which also removes any trace of finish, because I have a plan for refinishing it completely.

Ejector Trojan
 

Let's get back to this little comment that was overlooked; "The breach opens, and ejects shells,"
Now, did you really mean to say that the shells acutally ejected out of this Trojan or did they just lift so you could grab them?:corn:

Thank you! I did not know that process. I will admit the brake cleaner was a joke, but I knew I was going to have to find way to break the crud up. I will try this process.

The dummy shell I used would seat, and when the barrels were opened, the shell was extended out where I could remove it. The shell did not "pop" or "fly" out. My comment was made to say the mechanism that moved the shell was operational.

Are you related to Chris Wren, the architect?
I think he specialized in churches.

Sinking money into a replacement stock would be financial suicide. Maybe look around for a used stock and have it fitted. Also, I would never put the parts in any water. I usually use a Dremmel tool with a bronze wire wheel at low speed to get junk out of an action, once the floor plate and easily accessible parts are disassembled. Also, no steel wool. Frontier 45 pad for cleaning anything metal on the outside.

Funny you ask. I did a history report on Sir Wren back in high school. While working on that report, I did do some genealogy looking. I cannot find a direct link in my family line to him. I believe I am related, but in the manner that we both share a single ancestor, like he is a loooooooooooooong lost uncle.

It would be "financial suicide" in the aspect of ruining the value of the firearm, or in the aspect of cost involved in creating a new stock? The reason I ask, my boss has a machine that replicates rifle/shotgun stocks. This is a long time hobby of his and he has already commented he will help with the stock if I ask. I also shared some pics of the state of the buttstock. I have no plans to try and reuse this one for anything other than a reference.

On the topic of cleaning, how easy it is to disassemble the hammerhead? When I was trying to get the barrels off, I removed the 2 screws on the bottom plate and lifted it up about 1/8" to get some oil in there, but I did not remove the plate. If/when I decide to remove the plate, do I need to be worried about any springs that may fly out, or will the layout be fairly straight forward? I plan to video/photograph the disassembly to ensure I have documentation of how it came apart.

And on the "financial" aspect, I understand this particular shotgun in its current condition isn't what I would call "high dollar" or a "collector's item", but generally, is this model considered valued around $200-400? Higher? Lower? Sentimental value of this shotgun is priceless and I do not see this ever being sold or transferred out of the family, but I like to keep records, and would like a ball park number should I need to interact with my insurance (god forbid).

Wouldn't that have been exciting. Christopher Wren is somewhat of a icon in so many facets of the things I marvel at; Astronomy, Navigation, Engineering and fine instruments. When someone can claim the likes of Isaac Newton as one of his followers, It speaks volumes.
I went to Easter services at St. Pauls many years ago. Just walking through the main archway was enough to bring tears to my eyes.

It's the same process as slow rust bluing, but without the need for initial rusting if you already have an "actively oxidizing patina". There are lots of videos out there to watch. After conversion, it will look cruddy, and possibly still rusty. But what looks like rust will be be very loose and powdery. 0000 steel wool knocks this now loose excess oxide off, and polishes the hard layer of bluing that was formed against the metal. All this is done dry, although some insist on "wet carding" with water.

When you are all done, use a good water displacing oil. anything with rust inhibitors in it will ruin all your hard work, as the finish is quite delicate in this dry state. I have found that plain kerosene is the absolute best. Dunk your parts, or brush on liberally for a barrel and let it set for for an hour or so. Following this use clean oil (again no detergents or rust inhibitors) for your first oiling. After this initial oiling the finish is "set" and you can use whatever gun oil you like or prefer for normal maintenance down the road.

Your frame looks like it has been refinished before. You can preserve its current weathered look and "patina" with the above boiling. If it looks too neglected, you can bring up the finish just a touch with a single careful iteration of rust bluing to make the weathering and age look more uniform, without taking away aged appearance.

[QUOTE=Chris Wren;407700]
If/when I decide to remove the plate, do I need to be worried about any springs that may fly out, or will the layout be fairly straight forward? I plan to video/photograph the disassembly to ensure I have documentation of how it came apart.

QUOTE]

We see how you got the stock off without removing the floor plate! The guts of the stock head were gone. Otherwise it would not have come off. The trigger guard rotates off counter-clockwise. Then remove all three screws from the floor plate, noting their positions if they were aligned north south. If not, the long one will go in the back upon reassembly. This will give you access. But duplicating a stock from the one you have will be useless since it is missing its innards. Plus one can't reinstall a stock without removing the sears. It's not hard to disassemble but it takes practice and correct screwdrivers. There will be four parts that will fall out so be careful and note their escape. Photos taken help. I wouldn't go too far but just clean up the receiver/action (hammerhead as you call it). Please join PGCA for more advice/help. You may find your stock for there is a member's section where you can buy/sell and look for parts.

Yup, that stock is junk...

Regarding cleaning, my go-to method is to use a sonic cleaning tank with the correct solvent (one that will not ignite) and let it sit in it for at least 6 hours. More iterations may be necessary but this is the method I use for cruddy internals. I use Big45 Frontier pads externally.





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Chris, here is a link on the PGCA FAQ section on how to disassemble a Parker shotgun.
https://parkerguns.org/pages/faq/FAQ...yWithPhoto.htm

Thank you!

I will clean up an action like Dean, ultrasonic cleaner. Run it for hours, it won’t hurt anything. I use a 60/40 mix of Simple Green (60) and water (40). Afterwards I’ll carefully use compressed air to blow it off, then I’ll place it in a parts dryer (looks like a food dehydrator).