Protecting Case Colors
 

I know this has been discussed before, but I wondered if there might be some new "developments" in what best protects case colors.

I have a Parker VH that has extraordinary original case colors. I'd like to shoot it (some, not a great deal). I was advised that diminishing the case colors would really hurt the value of the gun (since the gun will likely be part of my estate when I kick the bucket, I'm not sure how much I care about "value"). However, I consider myself a caretaker of the gun, so I do care about its future. It's a fine example.

Is there a good product that does not alter the color, protects well...and is removable if desired at some later time?

Realistically if you keep it oiled and shoot it from time to time it will have no ill effect on it.

If you want to coat it with something, you can use fluid film, shellac, or some stock finishes like tru-oil, etc…. Some spray lacquer on their guns. And some manufacturers, like LC smith, did that when their guns were new.

I personally do not like coating them with anything as it always seems to effect the look of the colors. Either too shiny, or too dull. Or textured looking. And remember that anything that goes on will eventually have to be removed by someone.

Thanks, Brian. I trust your judgement.

Behren's spray lacquer, does that ring a bell? I never used it because there was more than one similar product with the Behren's name and I didn't know the proper one. I think Oscar Gaddy used it. I don't know how to get it off.

When I had a couple of damascus barrels redone by a local guy he suggested Tru-Oil to protect the finish. Seems to be doing the job.

Daryl, your local guy would be local for me too. PM me information if you choose to. Thanks.

Sorry Bill, this person does this as a hobby, not as a business. It's a shame because his work is outstanding.

They make probably the best canned spray lacquer made for musical instruments. I know that with instruments, the major issue is clarity to show the wood grain. Some lacquers blush more than others from humidity, but the good ones clear quickly and turn truly transparent. The best way is to set them in strong sunlight for 1/2 - 1 hour and they will be completely transparent. I would test any lacquer on a section of something cheap to see how the finish comes out. No real harm. You can always strip it off easily.

Thanks, Arthur. So what would you use to remove the lacquer that would not harm the case colors?

Lacquer thinner should do it quickly. There is no solvent component to case color that should be harmed. Case color is a molecular part of the metal. Try anything on a hidden area first.

Destry has the answer: just shoot the damned thing. The value of these guns is what? and what will t be in 20 years?

Actually I do like True oil. It does a nice job, and when it begins to wear off you take a solvent easily remove it, and do it again. Fingers work good if you are careful!

I noted at the Southern in Sanford last time I was there a great number of the guns displayed by CSMC had outstanding and shiny case coloring. Foxes, Parkers, LCs, Arriettas..it didn't matter, they were all clearly sprayed with something. When I asked Louis if they sprayed all their guns he just walked away (he's quite a guy let me tell you). Maybe I offended him, but DO some dealers spray their guns prior to display? The give away would have been the overspray or over "brush" onto some of the wood and I wondered if they removed this prior to shipping.

Years ago I purchased some "stuff" from CSMC that was advertised as protecting case colors. It turned the metal yellow.

My CSMC Fox definitely has had something applied to it as I see it wearing off. The colors still look great but are beginning to fade as any often used guns colors will over time.

Case colors will fade over time. Some techniques were better than others. Keeping it in a darker corner of your gun cabinet out of direct light helps. Since you use or plan to use the firearm, conservation rather than preservation is key.

Dr. Gaddy told me years ago that he used Testors ..as in model car..clear lacquer..

Don't know the brand or source, but 15-20 years agoi I attended the huge gun show they had in Louisville in January and suddenly it seemed that every gun in the thousand or so displays there was coated in some sort of discussing crap that was as shiny as polished glass and coated the entire gun, metal and wood. It was so intense that it was hard to see detail in the metal or stock grain. Sounds like the same stuff. I haven't seen it anywhere for several years. I suspect everyone was hesitant about buying anything coated like that.

Arthur, I remember that shiny coating also, and I recall talking to a dealer about it at, coincidentally, the Louisville gun show. It was sold as a sort of do-all/cover everything for protecting the gun. I do recall seeing it for sale, but I don't recall the brand-name nor who sold it. It was horrible stuff in my (uneducated) opinion.

Yeah, what is that stuff? They would put it on a rag like oil, but it seemed to be thicker than oil. It defied reason, being ugly and not any more protection than a rub with a silicone rag.

A good high Carnauba content paste wax has worked for my other Fox and LC Smith shotguns.
It may also be carefully applied to the barrels-avoiding the rib pattern. It may be re-applied.
The advantage is that it is not semi-permanent and usage will remove it.
Lastly, it protects without altering the appearance in any way. I use a British high
quality wax. (A furniture pure wax or similar, not floor wax is recommended.) Test a small portion on a hidden area if you so choose.
{Also insure that any vehicle wax has no rubbing or polishing compound included-use only PURE wax, minimum additives. I avoid auto wax for a number of reasons including purity.}

This is the one, Bill. It's Behlen's, not Behren's, but is now rebranded by Mohawk. Notice the Behlen name on the label.

The correct spelling of the product that Oscar used is "Behlen spray lacquer". Don't know the exact variation.

I always used tru oil on the reproductions I personally owned. After a while, I would wipe it off with a solvent and then re do it. I thought it helped, as the chemical colors would come off easily!

The NRA museum uses Renaissance Wax.
https://www.nramuseum.org/media/1007...20wicklund.pdf

For my 2 cents, one should start with the question of what do you anticipate "normal" use to be.
Renaissance wax might be the absolute best for long term display in a museum, but not ideal for frequent handling with bare hands. I think RiG is a good balance. When handling, skin temperature will melt and redistribute it.

For color case finishes that get used frequently (like, say, my SAA repro I take hiking all the time) I use RiG when I take it out and pack up. I keep a tiny pot of RiG in my kit when camping to refresh nightly. For my original SAA which only gets take out to shoot once every couple of years, I used an airbrush to apply lacquer to the frame. After shooting and cleaning, it gets wiped down with renaissance wax and stored away. When it gets taken out to shoot, the wax is wiped off along with any dust from storage, RiG goes on and we go shoot.

Brownells did an experiment a while back on rust prevention. The link I bookmarked is dead. Here is a new one.
https://www.ncowestbranch.com/docume...g%20Clinic.pdf
As you can see, #1 and #2 are WD-40 and RiG, followed by cosmoline which stained the degreased steel.

See NRA's notes about oil based products evaporating, eventually. One can write volumes on the subject of rust preventatives and how they can affect bluing, and the mentioning of WD-40 is sure to incure some wrath. Naked (in any degreased state or fresh from the tank) bluing is very delicate and treated much differently from normal maintance.