Black powder or Black powder substitute
 

Was curious what people were using for black powder or black powder substitutes.
Do you find there are any major differences using either?

When I loaded non smokeless in my hunting muzzleloader I used a variety of things . But never true black or Pyrodex . I used stuff called Black Canyon which eventually changed to Cleanshot and finally went under . I used this stuff because it had no sulfur or the normal corrosive properties of BP . After Cleanshot I went to Hodgdon 777 and it worked very well for me . The no sulfur powders I mentioned were quite easy to clean , in actuality all you needed was tap water and patches . I’ve taken all three of the non sulphuric powders I mentioned in unburned form then put water on them and they dissolved . Once or twice I forgot to clean my ML after the season having fired it but set in the corner for a month or two . Water and clean patches clean it right up with no rust .

For me I use Blackhorn 209 in my inline and For loading 38-55 , 45-70 , 45-90 , 50-110.

Great information guys thank you. So I think my goal this year is to load up some BP loads in brass shells. I’m hoping to find a non corrosive substitute with load data. There are so many choices I’m just not sure which way to go.

I ve used home made black powder that works very good in any thing pistol and shotgun...just dirty..i use water and stainless steel brush for cleanup....that stainless steel brush is the thing for dried powder in the barrel...777 is a good stout substiue for black powder....charlie

I prefer Blackhorn in my Cooper inline muzzle loader as well, I guess I'm being a sissy, too lazy to clean:)

BH209 in my Inlines, and real black in my Flintlock and caplock guns.

Is there any preference for loading shotshell?

I use commercial or homemade BP loaded into thrice-fired Federal papers - first shot is the factory load, then twice as regular reloads with smokeless usually IMR 700-X powder, a personal favorite in papers. A third reload in Federal papers usually develops pin burn holes above the base and that's the one I load with BP, fiber wads, bare shot and a regular pie crimp. and then discard the hull after firing. After shooting the black powder shells on a course or at a tourney, I'll shoot two regular smokeless shells thru each barrel which greatly aids in the cleanup.

It's my understanding that Triple 7 powder uses a different oxidizer that's more energetic than the nitrate in BP. Anyone using/planning to use Triple 7 is well advised to stick with loads that are published by its manufacturer.

I like using the real stuff. I have used Goex for years, which is good. I have used Old Eynesford in 1 1/2f for 10 gauge loads, which I like.

Lately though, I have switched over to Swiss powder as it is a little hotter and cleaner than Goex. I use this in my 45/70s, 44 Russian, 45 colt, paper sharps, cap and ball revolvers, muzzleloaders and of course in brass shotshells for my Parker hammer guns(for which I use 2f).

Lot's of good loading resources online. There is nothing like shooting a double with a Parker hammer gun and black powder brass shotshells, which is what it would have used when new :)

Nothing but real black powder. Never shot a load of any form of substitute b.p. in any of my rifles or shotguns. My go to brand for nearly 40 years has been Goex, but have used others, like Elephant, Curtis & Harveys, Swiss, etc. Elephant was really dirty, and I used it mostly in shotguns until it was gone. Having not shot b.p. as much for the last few years I'm not even sure if Goex is still available. I've still got several cans on hand.

I read on one of the ML forums that Goex in LA is in the process of being permitted for start-up under new management. That thread didn't detail the timeline.

BP only. GOEX or Graffs. And clean up is only one more step - soapy water before the clean water. I use in the basement two of the wives discarded dish washer plastic pails, one hot soapy water, the other hot clean water. First a Tornado brush to break up the fouling, then a patched cleaning rod with a damp patch and a couple of swabs up and down with the water treatments. A dry patch, then one with WD-40, and a final one with Rem Oil. Doesn't take but 5 minutes or so.

JMHO, if you're gonna shoot smoke, then shoot smoke. It's worked for a couple of hundred years and still works just fine now. And the way things are going you'll have to be like Charlie and make your own if you want to shoot anything.