I see 10 ga Cheddites are out of stock again.
 

However Fedex dropped these off yesterday morning so I guess I ordered them just at the right time. Now I am just waiting on my separate order of shot to come in. Does anyone have data for a 1 1/4oz load in the Cheddite hulls using Bluedot ?

lucky you...I can never catch them hulls when they have them in stock....that bluedot will make a good load.....charlie

I load Cheddite hulls the same way I load the green Remington hulls. That said, I’ve only ever tested the Remington hulls, so caveat emptor.

If using Bluedot, bump up your payload a bit to 1 3/8 oz. Here is my Bluedot load:

http://parkerguns.org/forums/showthread.php?t=23363

Lead or bismuth. Makes little to no difference. (I’ve done the testing to prove.)

-Victor

I have seen other 10 ga loaders say the hulls are a similar basic straight wall design so they load about the same. As well I am using fiberwads so the pressure should be lower. 1 3/8 may actually be more ideal since im loading large lead shot T and F, in the T shot that works out to about 43 pellets which should anchor a coyote pretty good.

BPI confused because I had placed the order then 5 days later they cancelled it and refunded my money then a week later they recharged the order and sent me a shipping notification. Im glad I was able to get these 50 as its a bit cheaper than breaking down factory loads for the hulls :rotf: .

I trimmed a few of them down today to 2 7/8, a wood dowel and a mini tube cutter seems to work pretty good not the quickest method of course but it works. I actually had a wood dowel laying around that is diameter of the inside of the 8 gauge cases so works pretty good on them too.

Well got these 50 Cheddites trimmed now just waiting on the shot.

Looking good Milton, I have been meaning to load up some myself. I have been wanting to load some with Red Dot and a fiber wad to try in one of my 2 5/8" 10ga Lifters.

I am using fiberwads myself however I forgot to order any nitro cards as it slipped my mind at the time. Even though fiberwads are oversized ive read alot that they dont seal gas well. I assume this is because they can be some what brittle.

I took some measurements off my fired RST 2 5/8s shells, they only use .16-.17" of hull to form the roll crimp but the ideal number I see listed alot is 1/4" for a good roll crimp not sure exactly what difference it makes ?

I do use nitro cards, but I have taken some fiber wad RST 20 gauge shells apart and there are just 2 fiber wads and no nitro card.

On the roll crimp, I think you will know what feels right, a lot of that is trial and error. I like to have some room for the roll crimp so to speak, but not so much that it seems excessive and I moving a lot of material on the hull...

I have tried a few different lengths and have noticed the 1/4" figure is about spot on for a tight roll crimp which is probably what you would want if using a load with buffer or to help with keeping water out.

I may have to figure out a different method for roll crimping as the crimper just spins in the drill. Would have made more sense if that part that goes in the chuck was shaped like a actual bit and not round.

Milton check Ebay for a vintage 10ga. hand roll crimper. That's is what I used for these Chedditte shells on the left. They work well on plastic and I have ruined more than a few plastic shells with a drill. It takes longer, but they are done right.

I should have bought the one I seen on ebay last week it was only $40 maybe another one will show up. What brass shells are you loading on the right ?

Milton those are the 2 5/8" 10ga. Track of the Wolf shells that I use in my short, short 10 gauge lifters. They are a little pricey, but worth it in my opinion...

I figured out what was going on with my BPI orders, my bank automatically cancels and refunds any pending charge after 72 hours and BPI charges will be marked as pending until they ship which is currently 2 weeks.

Im not sure why these 10 gauge hulls take some much more force to roll crimp than the 8 gauge hulls. I thought the 4 pin crimper would be much better than BPIs 1 pin but from what im seeing thats not the case.

Ive been kicking around the idea of ordering some brass cases from RCC but you have to order 50 cases, are you loading smokeless or bp in them ?

Milton, in the Track of the Wolf brass shells I have only used black powder, but seems like I have heard people using Red Dot for target loads. Please do you own research on that though. When I load brass shot shells I am always thinking black powder, so for my use they are great. They are much stronger and better than Magtechs and worth the price.

On the Rocky Mountain Brass Cartridges you can use smokeless powder. I need to place an order with them myself as I have been wanting some 20 gauge brass shells and I can't find Magtechs ones anywhere and there are not any other alternatives that I know about. I am going to place a big order with them after the holidays for 20ga shells, 40-70 Straight Sharps, and 25-25 Stevens. They should last a lifetime...

The problem with the Magtechs is the pistol primers have a hard time trying to ignite the smokeless powder as where in the RMC case they use 209 primers which work way better. As well I have seen people make homemade base wads by punching a primer hole in a 1/4" fiber wad and gluing it in the case. The brass shells should generate lower pressures than any plastic shell since they have no base wad and more internal volume. Ive looked at the RMC cases but for me the RCC ones just look a bit nicer. RMCs are lathe turned where as RCCs are cnc milled using cad/cam not sure if there is a actual difference in how they perform. I know RCC will modify or make custom cases as well so you could easily send them whatever plastic hull you prefer and ask for the brass ones to match the internal specs.

3rd times the charm I was finally able to get a decent crimp, just takes quite a bit of downforce and turning slowly. My crimp next to one of the RST ones.

those look really good I can tell no difference in the 2 shells....the birds want know the difference either....charlie

Maybe a drill [ press ] with a key chuck would solve your spinning problem. The difference in .160 and .250 is .090. If half of that is folded over your crimp depth will change .045. Half way between a 1/16 and a 1/32 of an inch. That isn't a whole lot.

In my opinion being on the shorter side is better than trying to roll crimp 1/2" of hull like I have read some people do. I dont think roll crimps are that finicky I will set the drill press up tomorrow I just got to find somewhere to put it haha. I think the problem is the 10 ga crimper is about 3/8s on the shaft and the drill is 3/8s so theres no room for it to actually grab it. I didnt realize this until now and I checked them with a mic. I should have bought a 10 gauge hull vice I have one for the 8 gauge. I can easily hold the 8 ga hulls by hand though while roll crimping them only takes 2-3 seconds. Heres the 8 gauge jaws, looks identical to the ones PR sells but I dont see a 8 gauge one on their website I dont have a base for it.