Range day with the Parker 10 gauges
 

Ive had my 6 frame since last April I think and just now got around to shooting it and the 3 frame grade 2 I picked up from Wayne a few months back. Also decided to take my deer rifle to the range since I have fired it since January . I hate to say it because I love the big guns but the 3 frame seems to shoot alot better than the 6 . Theres about a 3lb difference between them well 3 1/4 lbs I think if you want to get technical . My oldest brother is not tolerant to recoil so when Im trying to compare guns I let him shoot them and see if he notices more than I do . He said for him the extra 3lbs doesnt make enough difference to justify the weight. The 3 frame seems to get on target quicker and it patterns the #4 RST Bismuth loads better than the 6 frame . Which I thought was odd because going by a micrometer its choked alot less than the 6 frame. I still love the big gun though but I think I see why the 3 frames were the go to size for the 10 gauge .

Onto another observation , the lead loads are 1 1/4 oz at 1100fps and the bismuth is 1 1/4oz at 1250 fps . The lead loads are extremely dirty however the bismuth loads are fairly clean I assume perhaps they are loaded to a little higher psi . Now for my rifle I been having a debate with a group of Weatherby shooters on the 340 Wby and its recoil . Its similar to a 30-06 with a good recoil pad not bad at all, but I realized I never shot it with the brake off. So to be fair I decided to fire it with the brake off .... yeah im never doing that again thankfully my safety glasses stopped the scope from imprinting a Leupold logo on my forehead haha .

I noticed on the 3 frame hammer gun the right barrel after every shot there is black soot on the primer my guess is loose chamber tolerances causing blow by ?

Milton, That appears to be a punctured primer. I have the same problem with my 20 gauge hammer gun using RST ammo. There have been several discussions on this forum regarding the problem.

glad you got to shoot the big tens....a 1 1/4 ounce load in the big 6 frame ought to be like shooting a 410 load....you are right the 3 frame is the best size in the 10 ga guns in my opinion......charlie

Would that be a problem with the hammer for the right barrel being too heavy or the quality of the primer? Those are cheddite hulls not sure what primer they use but I have read the hulls themselves are low quality . It only happened on the hammergun the hammerless was fine. I was just shooting today for fun and had the time to finally get to the range .

Actually Charlie there didnt seem to be much difference in felt recoil between the 3 and 6 frame which surprised me . I was going to take the 8 gauge but didnt want to haul 50lbs of gear to the range plus the Parkers really needed a day out :rotf: . I think it might be worth the effort to get into handloading for the 10 ga , the 1 1/4 oz bismuth load at 1250fps I really like a lead version would be ideal I think for other game that doesnt require non tox . The lead #4s pattern pretty tight even at 40 yards especially out of the hammergun .

So I just cleaned the primer on the loads that had soot on the primer and they are pierced .

I believe the Cheddite primers are made from a thinner gauge material and/or the material is more brittle than other brands. Also, your right firing pin might extend past the frame more than the left pin does when fired or the pin might not be rounded as well as your left pin causing the puncture of the primer.

I just read a thread on here from July and it seems numerous members have had the same issue with the Cheddite hull/primers . I havnt seen Federal 10 ga hulls in stock for months . I could always buy steel shot loads to pull apart for hulls but im not that desperate yet . From what ive was reading the main concern with those pierced primers is gas going back into the action and causing stock damage . From what I can tell when I cleaned it earlier the firing pins look pretty well fitted to the holes .

A pierced primer on a hammer gun can't get back into the stock so there is no worry for the gun. Plus the firing pin in the hole probably won't let much gas out anyway. Mine does the same thing with RSTs.

Not in the stock but it can in the eye and on the face ask me how I know it dont take much to make it sting .

I always wear a pair of osha approved sunglasses when im shooting not sure how they compare to other shooting glasses but they've worked pretty good so far . I am always overly cautious when im at the range whats nice about ours is usually its empty .

I have a question if anyone may have some insight , on these Parker hammerguns is there average amount of force required to cock the hammers ? Or does it vary greatly from gun to gun ? On mine it takes alot of muscle to cock them back .

Cocking effort is way different in different guns.

That is what I figured but wasnt sure , the other 10 ga hammerguns(English built ones) I owned/have they dont require as much effort so it had me wondering .

Something I learned shooting them is the difference between each gun makes me like them in their own way .

The Cheddite primers are notorious for piercing in certain firearms in the Trapshooting world. There seems to be quite a variance in primer cup thickness which would explain why not every shell had the pierced primer.

The real issue with such piercing is erosion of the firing pin over time. The gases coming back out of the primer are several thousand degrees and will make the tip of the firing pin brittle and eventually crack off pieces. This is an issue that is resolved by either shortening the firing pin or switching primers.

Ive read also the problem with Cheddite hulls Win 209s or other US brand primers fit loose in them . Seems the best solution is to just spend a little extra $ and go with a better hull/primer combo . Well I just looked Cheddite hulls appear to no longer be cheaper than the Federals so there doesnt seem to be a reason anymore to use those unless its as a last resort .

Never pierced a primer with Winchester 209s.

I cock my Hammer guns with the Breech open & before Loading. Seems to require less effort. Don’t load & close the gun until ready to low mount & get into shooting position. That’s not the best solution for hunting though.

William

I think they will be easier to cock with hunting gloves on, something for the knurl part of the hammer to grip to .

Seems I remember my Dad (back in the 50's) carrying his hammer gun cocked and open with shells in place. He would not shoot (go to the point with gun closed) unless the dog pointed and held the bird.

I have done this when I hunted alone with a hammer gun and it worked fine for me. No one else to worry about.....

I think a poll would find a number of hunters who carry their hammer guns loaded but open until there's a point. I often do when preserve hunting in open ground, especially if hunting with someone else. You have to be careful to not lose shells, but that's a small price to pay for safety.

most hammer guns are easly cocked...I have a dingle barrel 12 ga that is very hard to cock and the trigger pull is about 15 lbs...its my great grandpaws gun bought new by him...I would fix the trigger and hammer if it not his gun...charlie

Several years back some shotgun primer mfgs switched to using aluminum in there primers instead of brass. I had to retire my wifes .410 311 and have had to make a firing pin on a Ithica N I D. If the guns have non rebounding locks they can drive the pins in so far as to break off the pin tips when opened,use care take the forend off and wiggle untill the pin leaves the primer. Will

Actually, when I hunt I generally carry all doubles open until I shoot. (Works ideally with a non-auto safety). Always seemed to me to be the safest system that could exist.

I’ve pierced WIN , REM , Federal and Chedditte primers with several hammer guns 10-12-16 . But I’ve never knock on wood pierced one with a hammerless gun SO FAR :whistle:

I’m debating taking a 16 hammer on an upcoming quail deal . I’ll carry the gun cracked open unloaded with the hammers down . When dogs are on point I’ll load close and just before they flush I’ll pull the hammers back . I’m no advocate of walking around with the gun cracked open and the hammers back then closing on loaded chambers with the hammers back .

Just for clarity, I have never hunted anything but doves with a hammer gun, and there is no walking as a rule. What I described is typical upland hunting with lhammerless guns. I got into this practice with my kids. I always felt safer in a group if only the people over the dog have a gun ready to fire.

Wasn’t knocking your practices . Several other people have said the correct way is to pull the hammers back while the guns cracked open load close etc . I’ve watched many folks shoot sporting that way , I’m just more comfortable not pulling the hammers back until after the guns closed . I’ve had hammer guns double on me before so I guess I’m just squeamish about the left hammer falling when I close the gun . If the guns closed , I pull the hammers back point it and fire and if both barrels go off it’s what I consider a better situation . And to be honest one is never gonna be 100% ceratain they know when the gun will finally be worn enough to accidentally drop . My Grade 0 16 hammer dropped on me twice at a practice round at one of my semi local clubs , 16 isn’t anything terrible recoil wise when it happens but it sure messes up the mental aspect .

Those who advocated the pull the hammers back before loading then close claimed it cut down on thumbs slipping off the hammers during cocking and getting accidental discharge . And by no means do I disagree with that . I’m just more comfortable load close then pull back .