Dolls head extension
 

Who is the fellow who does the dolls head extension? I had him do one, and it lasted a long time, but it is time for another one.
As soon as you say his name, I will say "Oh, yeah." This getting 80 isn't for everyone!
Sam Ogle, Lincoln, NE samogle2001@yahoo.com

What does he do to or with the doll’s head extension??





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I had read here and have seen pics of this type of repair that was done by Bachelder's, I do not know if they're still doing them.
https://www.mastergunmakers.com/

What kind of work to the doll’s head are we referring to?




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I assume Sam is inquiring about the installation of a set screw to limit the travel of the ejector blades causing damage to the doll's head. It was discussed in this thread:
http://parkerguns.org/forums/showthread.php?t=19295

Thanks Greg. I remember the discussion but there have been other aspects of doll’s head work or repair and the OP wasn’t specific, which is why I asked.





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Putting a screw in the dolls head extension.
Sam

The retaining screw for the ejector stop plate…





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I don't think that is the best solution. The best solution has been discussed before. It is a screw in the bottom of the breech and entering the extractors to stop them from hitting the thingy that breaks (the stop plate). A new screw in the thingy is a stopgap measure that requires cutting new dovetails and other expensive procedures.

I am not sure what you call it; but I need it fixed.
Who do I send the gun to?
Sam Ogle; Lincoln NE samogle2001@yahoo.com

Sam, Bill Murphy explained in (very) layman's terms what you apparently need doing. It isn't overly complicated, and is the best cure for the issue of the ejectors popping the stop plate off. I would suggest speaking to Dave Fjelline, in Lincoln CA, (916) 521-1334

Bachelder still does the work and it is not the complicated and relatively inexpensive considering what gunsmiths charge. I have had two 28 gauge barrels done with no problems.

Thanks: I will call Batchelder. His last correspondence was in the $2,000.00 range, and this old boy doesn't want to pay that much.

I had a 28ga set done last year at Bachelders. I think the cost was $400ish + shipping. Here is a few pictures of the work. The first two are the broken wedge and the rest are of the repair to the wedge and install of the stop screw in the lug.

PML

Patrick, I would prefer that the doll's head stop plate be filled in, dressed smooth, and the lug screw be installed. The doll's head stop plate and screw should be eliminated entirely.

That cannot exactly happen. The shell kickers still need a guide and be able to be removed. Unless the milled slots are continued out to the end of the extension.

Thanks for bringing that up, Dudley. The cheaper solution would be to install the stop screw before the stop plate is irreparably destroyed.

Pats example above, where the plate broke is not the norm. Usually the extension is what actually fails. Allowing the plate to push out of it.

If a gun is to be shot a lot, it would be better to install the stop screw before failure of the stop plate. The screw should probably be installed at a position slightly before the ejector makes contact with the plate. The installation of the stop screw can be as neat and clean as on an extractor Parker.

Murphy: Who do you recommend?
Sam Ogle, Lincoln,NE 68510 samogle2001@yahoo.com

If you will look closely at the modification we are discussing, you will see that it is a simple machinist's job. Locating the correct place to drill your hole, and the correct length of your screw, are the only things to consider. The stop screw on one of my lifter guns is no more than an almost headless #6. It isn't like there is a lot of pressure on the screw.