PR forend issue
 

This is my first post here because I just acquired my first Parker, a 28g Repro 2 barrel set. When the barrels are off the frame, the forend attaches easily to either barrel. When the barrels are on the frame, the forend attaches somewhat easily to the 26” set, but on the 28” set it needs a lot of force on the latch to clamp down. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

I had a similar problem with my 28 ga. 2 barrel set. The forend fit the 28" barrels well but were a hard fit with the 26's. As I recall I did a little careful file and polish work to the lug on the 26" barrels to get things to go together more easily. There isn't a lot of wood in 28 ga. forend and I don't think it would take much abuse.
C.G.B.

Frank,
What ever you do, Do Not push on the front of the forend when trying to get them to lock into the forend lug. That is how forends break!
Bob Jurewicz

That was my first thought. I didn't want to remove metal without some confirmation. I'll just do a little bit of filing at a time on the underside of the lug of the 28" bbls. The force it requires now stresses the forend wood too much.

Thanks for both replies.

Frank,
Specifically, where do you plan to file?
Bob Jurewicz

Jack Rowe shows how it’s done in this video. The video is really about tightening the fore end but Jack also shows how to loosen it as well.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nuGBOtnDZlY

If the frond installs, then there really is no issue. It should be tight.

But... if it is unfavorable for you and you feel you need to correct it, the forend lug on that set of barrels is what you want to lightly remove material from. DO NOT touch the wood.

I would think filing a very small amount of metal from under the "nose" of the lug would allow the FE iron to engage the notch more smoothly.

Edit: I filed some metal from the interior notch, not much, but enough that the FE now goes on with a rap with the base of my palm. I think that’s good enough for now as I am not comfortable removing metal or any other non-reversible gun tampering. Also, I can’t complain that those lugs aren’t sufficiently hardened!

First you need to determine if the problem is the metal fit or the wood fit.
2. Remove wood & see if the forearm metal will close properly. If it doesn't then remove some metal on the back end of the barrel tab. If the forearm closes properly without the wood on, then the wood is setting too high & interfering with it closing. If that's the case then lamp black the barrel & close forearm slowly & tap to see where lamp black shows on the wood Indicating high spots that will need to be removed. If you're not experienced and/or not comfortable with doing this I'd send it to someone that is experienced in metal & wood fitting. Sometimes if you're not experienced in these areas you can chase a problem & in the end screw the gun up.

I read about "rapping with the base of my hand" and of "tap" but as has been said before, do NOT rap, tap or apply pressure to the forend beyond the latch area. That area has the least amount of wood and can very easily crack or break at that spot.





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I just reread Frank's 2:47PM Yesterday post. He states he would file under the "nose" of the forend lug. Isn't tight fit result of excess metal on the long surface on the breach end of the lug not under the nose?
Bob Jurewicz

Yes it is Bob - under the nose of the lug should only be filed if the forend closes properly but the latch lever won't seat flat.





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That's why I stated if your not experienced or comfortable with doing this send it to someone that is so you don't cause more damage. I've been a stock maker for over 40 years & know how to fit metal, stocks & checker. My word of caution is don't start filing on the metal until you determine if that's the real problem. If you start removing metal & the real problem is the wood then you can make the fit sloppy & then have to weld back metal to the tab. My main emphasis is if you're not experienced in the area, let a pro do it so you don't screw up your gun.

I will repeat, DO NOT touch the wood.

Perhaps no help at all but i have had a 20 repro since 85 and used it quite a bit. It is still very tight, too tight some might say. I was assembling it while talking with some fellow shooters and always have used synthetic grease on wear points. When i went to attach fore end it would not close always having been tight. A little extra grease was all it took to stop it from latching. Grease, dirt, debris, a ding in metal on either side can drastically change already very tight tolerances.

Both of my repros have tight forends and i plan to leave them that way.

Thanks for all the helpful replies. The forend wood sits flush to the 28” barrels, but the latch has to be forced down the last 10 or so degrees and even then does not lay flush in its recess.

There can be many reasons why the 2nd barrel doesn't latch properly. Added 2nd barrel & not properly fitted. Forearm wood changed. Wasn't fit properly in the begining. There are many on this site that can steer you to a professional that can evaluate & correct the problem. The problem may be a simple fix, or require detailed refitting. If you yourself are not competent in this area don't take on the job yourself since you may create a bigger problem.

I hear everyone loud and clear. I am not going to attempt any further work myself. I didnt remove much metal at all - just a little dust really, to see if things would work better, and there was some modest improvement. I'll hand it over to a pro at some point. Here's a pic if you're interested.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...44afe2cd_z.jpgPR2 by FGP1154, on Flickr

Wow, what a Repro. The wood is outrageous, even compared to other outrageous Repros.

Two things to wind up the thread. I was so impressed by the responses I decided to join the PGCA. I received at least $40 worth of information, and who knows, someday I may buy a real Parker:)

Also, I had an excellent buring experience with the Lewis and Grant Auction House. The gun was in better condition than described. In fact I don't believe it has been fired, and it wasn't described as such. Also, they reached out to cut the delivery cost when they got a better deal themselves from Fed Ex.