Ejector issue
 

I have a Parker Reproduction 20 gauge. I can open the shotgun and remove the forend and verify the ejectors are cocking. Place the forend back on and dry fire or live fire.
Each time the right barrel trips the ejector as soon as the trigger is pulled, so when you open it acts like an extractor.
Left barrel lifts the shell part way and then kicks the shell out with a normal snap when opened fully. I have cleaned and lightly lubricated the forend metal with no effect.
I am assuming it’s a problem in the receiver, not sure if I am proper describing what is going on but any thoughts are appreciated.

Phil, when you cock the hammers by opening the action, close the gun then remove the forend and barrels, are both ejector actuating rods retracted into the knuckle of the frame?




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Thanks Dean. I will have a look when I get home this afternoon.

Sounds to me like you may have a broken leg on that ejector hammer. This can be an issue with the repros.
Or a broken lower sear. But the broken hammer is more commonly seen.

Thanks Dean and Brian. Here are a few pictures with the gun cocked with the barrels and forend then removed.

It appears not to be a broken ejector hammer as Brian suggests (and which I have experienced too) as both ejectors are cocked in your picture Phil.

I wish I could be of more help.





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Incorrect.
If the bottom leg of the ejector hammer is broken it will still cock and hold when the gun is unfired. It would however be sprung forward with the forend removed if the gun was fired. The photo phil posted is with the gun cocked. The bottom leg of the hammer only comes into play when the gun is fired.

And, I am not saying that the issue IS a broken hammer, only that it possibly could be.

Okay, I accept that. My own experience was that it would not stay cocked at all. Just a different experience I guess.





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If I remove the forend wood will I be able to visually inspect the leg of the ejector hammer?

Can you guys see the left leg of the toggle ?

No you can’t Phil.





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Not correct. Yes phil, You can. If you remove the wood, it will be clear if the ejector hammer leg or lower tooth on sear is broken.
Parts would also fall out.

Thanks guys. I will have a look. I had the wood off earlier last week to clean and lube just in case that was the issue. No parts fell out at that time, didn’t look at the hammers very close unfortunately.

Just curious, is this also an issue on the original Parker ejector guns?

Very unusual to have a broken ejector hammer “leg” on an original Parker. Parker Bros. Learned very early on during the Lifter era that a radius cut is far stronger than a ninety-degree angle on high stress parts so the leg on the ejectors was also radiused while the hammers on the Parker Reproductions were at a perfect 90 and they can be prone to breaking.





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Brian, I’m not trying to be arguementative but can you tell me where we can see the ejector hammer legs in these pictures... just for my own edification?


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No problem Dean. I have circled the two hammer legs. These are the parts that can break off. If they are damaged, it would be clearly visible with the wood removed. And also the condition of the lower combo sear catches can be seen.


Attachment 89564

Attachment 89565

To illustrate my point about the radiused 90 degree inside angle of the elector hammer foot. Double or triple click the picture to enlarge the view.

Parker Repros weren’t radiused.

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Due to some issues with kidney stones I have been a little slow in inspecting the forend metal on my Parker reproduction. Pulled the wood off a little while ago and low and behold look at what I found.
Thanks for the feedback. Another great reason to be a member.

Joe Breda makes replacement ejector hammers WITH the radiused foot. I think Brian uses Joe's hammers when he replaces them.... but I may be mistaken.

Mine was the right hammer also... maybe this is the norm because the right barrel gets fired more often.



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Thank you Dean. I bet you are right about the right one being fired more and thus resulting in breaking more commonly.

What do ya know... pull the wood and there it is.

Thanks for posting the photo Phil.

Yes, Joe would be the source for replacement hammers that are new and usually need minimal cleanup work to install them.

And, I dont work on ejector systems. I am a wood guy.

Phil check your PM’s please

In that case I would recommend Dave Fjelline.





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Thank you Dean and Brian. I will contact Dave Fjelline.

I am interested in what Dave tells you. I have had Dave successfully repair ejectors for me not too long ago. One thing about working on ejectors being it’s nobody’s favorite job. Your ahead of the game seeing that you know now what’s broke.

Am I wrong in thinking it makes sense to replace both now?

I have broken 2 right ejector hammers. The first I had just the left replaced and that was at least 10 years ago. Both are still working after several thousand rounds. The second is still not repaired. It is a clays only gun so I just use it as is primarily because of the hassle and risk of shipping it and I do not care for ejectors anyway.

Given the pain getting the repair done it might be smart to replace both at once but it is not a cheap endeavor. I would guess $500+.

Gary, are both of the guns you refer to Repros?





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Yes Dean, both are repros. One 20 and one 12. Another 20 repro I have supposedly had both hammers replaced before I bought it.

HI Phil, I thought I had that working just fine the last time I put it back together? We could always look at it next time you're up here.

Chris

Oops, sorry Phil, I think I'm a day late and a dollar short on this one. I didn't see the 2nd and 3rd pages, only read the 1st. Seems all is resolved.

Thanks Chris not resolved yet but in work. Need to buy the ejector hammer.