Need Help Fixing 28ga
 

My 28ga Reproduction is broken. The Ejector stop in the doll's head split. Anybody know of anyone who can make/replace this piece?

thank you
Patrick

PGCA Member, Joe Breda maybe? He'll need the old one probably.

He's not on our Links page of the Home page but he advertises in Parker Pges.





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The "fix" is to install a stop screw in the extractor like is done in extractor Parkers. This has been discussed here before. Trying to fix the stop at the end of the rib is an exercise in frustration.

Patrick,

If you have time, this is an interesting thread on the 28 gauge repro ejector stop issue http://parkerguns.org/forums/showthr...ght=Stop+screw.

Ken

This one looks like the actual stop plate gave out. Usually it is the dovetail in the extension that fails on these guns instead. Likely that will give out in time after the plate is replaced.

Like bill said, the only real “fix” is to put a stop screw in the bottom. Best to just do that now before the dovetail gets completely mangled, creating a cosmetic issue.

Would Dudley agree with me that a small bore Parker Repro that is never dry fired without empty shells or snap caps in place should probably never have this problem? I will install the stop screws on my 28s only after I have a problem, not as a preemptive fix. I will never dry fire my .410s, for any reason. In one of these threads concerning the stop plate problem, I suggested that Parker Brothers should have used the ejector shaft stop screw as part of the original design.

I dont think that dry firing has anything to do with it. The dovetails in the extension are just too small. Smaller than the original guns (which do not fail like this on the norm, to my knowledge).

I don’t dry fire w/out snap caps for the very same reason Mr. Murphy (Bill) eluded to. The heavier the snap cap, the better IMO.

Brian, I used the incorrect terminology. It is the use of the ejectors without empties in place after dry firing that I was suggesting is the problem. Thanks for replying.

I had to replace one on a 1 1/2 frame 12. Found the hardest spring steel I had and widened the dovetail a bit as that is where the failure occurred. I also shortened the stop notch on the ejector a bit as it was tight against it when gun was opened. No problems since then.

Wider is good for sure. If the dovetail was also deeper, the stop-plate could be thicker. If the stop-plate was thicker, there would be enough “substance” (metal) where it needs to be so that a captive screw could secure the plate, instead of relying on the weak dovetail, to take the beating from the ejectors. The screw only stops the stop-plate from up/down movement, nothing more. Smart design if the plate is intended to be sacrificial but, not so smart if there aren’t readily available spares, or if the dovetail fails b/f the plate. Neat design, poor execution.

Keavin, you have discovered that the problem is not with the bigbores.

I have never seen or heard of this stop plate issue happening with the repro 20 and 12g guns. Only the 28g. Because on those the size of the dovetail/stop plate is a lot smaller (about half the thickness).

I do, no need old one.

Yes, Dean Romig, I have made this part in the past. It’s a finicky part to make because it’s so small. It’s also very tedious. I’ve made one offs for original Parker’s because the hole in the middle is offset and may be different on different guns. I’d assume it would be the same on the Skeuse Parkers because they were CNC machined. It’s kinda a weird part! The screw only holds it in place from sliding up and down. The dove tail holds it in and the screw does not put any pressure on the back plate itself. I have a 28 Skeuse Parker and shot thousands of rounds through it and has not failed yet.

I had Brian Dudley fix mine: He did a helluva good job.
Sam Ogle, Lincoln, NE

Repair ejector stop
 

Before and after
On .410 barells