difficulty in take down
 

I took my VH 16 gauge 0 Frame out on the sporting range today and there were a few times where the safety was off but the gun didn't fire or seemed to have a hard trigger pull - all in the forward trigger for the right barrel. I opened and closed the gun a few times, slide the safety back and forth and finished a few more stations.
When I got home to clean the guns I removed the for-end and slid open the lever
and the action would only partially open and would not separate from the barrels.
I then reassembled the gun, pulled the triggers on some snap caps, and then the gun disassembled fine for me with the gun uncocked and pins visible. I went through the routine again and it still would not come apart unless the forward trigger was pulled. There was no need to pull the left to disassemble the gun.
Definitely at this point a trip to the gunsmith seems in order as I am not one to get deep into it but Im curious if anyone has some insight or has had a similar experience.
Thank you.

A crushed lead pellet, probably from a reload, that was fouling up the mechanism.

A forum search on the topic will result in Many previous discussions on the subject.

“Unhooking” is a good keyword to use.

Got it. Thank you Brian.

There was a wealth of info in these discussions and a real education for me. Dan Morgan got right to the problem before I finished my description. He had disassembled, cleaned and boiled this action for me two years back and the lead seems to be the culprit. All works well and he said to keep it clean and bring it back if it repeats and he will dig deeper.
Weather permitting I hope to take some Pheasant with it on Monday.
Thanks

Eric I'm not sure what you are referring to, a lead pellet, where? I'm confused but for me that's normal..........

There was a single lead shot pellet (probably from a reloaded shell) that was flattened and jammed between some parts in the gun. I am not sure just where they were lodged. When removed all worked well and the problem was gone.
I shoot mostly reloads in the gun at clays so occasionally I get a not so perfect crimp that I shoot anyway. Got to watch that more in the future.

My crimps are usually "not so perfect" and I light a candle and drip two drops of wax in the center of the crimp to seal them tight.

No - I don't do this at my reloading table.





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Good idea Dean!

:biglaugh::biglaugh::biglaugh:

That's funny

Dean, sounds like your press needs a slight adjustment.

Was unhappy with some of my crimps recently after switching to a different hull. Dug out the MEC hand book, an allen wrench and a twiddle here and a twiddle there, crimps look like factory now.:)
If you have a hole in center, you need more starter crimping.

Thanks Bob - I was thinking I needed a different wad. I'm a beginner at reloading so I can use all the help I can get.





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Dean, a great resource for reloading is Gamaliel's reloading forum. Any problem you come up with is in the search feature. As this forum has many very willing to share knowledge it has very detailed instructions and photos on how to correct problems to include repair of the machines. You will also see some familiar people from the Parker forum.

Thanks Daniel - I'll visit that site in the near future.





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https://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewforum.php?f=13 Dean this is the site.

Dean: A little more starter AND finish crimping(final station) - both simple adjustments - on an MEC press is what I've found to cure this.

Thanks Richard. I'll definitely make those adjustments. I have a couple of MECs (16 & 20) and a couple of PW presses in 28 & .410.





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As Richard said, also realize shells are not uniform in length. Remington gun club can vary from batch to batch so i crimp for the shortest and the longest wind up with a swirl crimp. All of them collected over the years, no matter what gauge or manufacture vary and i adjust for the short and put up with the swirl.