Cause
 

Yesterday after all these years my Parker began to double about every third or fourth shot. What would be a most probable cause for this? Thanks for help. Gerald.

Probably just needs a good cleaning.

kinda wakes you up !

Single trigger or double?





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If it's a ST check your top tang screw to see if still tight. Doesn't take much to make them double sometime.

It's a double trigger VH 12ga 1914. It appears to never been taken apart.

crud or worn parts (i bet crud )

maybe its just time to take it apart

I am thinking about removing the stock and spraying the receiver good with carb cleaner and blowing it out good with compressed air. Then repeating with WD40. Anyone with advise about this? Gerald

Gerald: I look forward to other responses to your idea for “blowing it out”.

As for me, the biggest downside for me will be: the risk I will bugger screws when taking off the stock to get access into the receiver.

Next, I think the Parker mechanism deserves more care than a blowing out. This is not a Remington 1100 (where I would do that, and have had to in the field when crud accumulated and disabled the trigger).

So, I would be hand carrying mine to the gunsmith in my state with the best reputation.

But of course, if you proceed with a blowing out...then I want to know how it goes for you. I am intensely interested.

John

Bill Schwarz Elijay. Bobby

do you have a properly fitted set of hollow ground screwdrivers?

and are you familiar with the inner workings?

Thanks Robert; I do know Bill he has one of mine now and I was there this past week. He is somewhat behind and I want to use this one next week. I will talk to him before I proceed. Gerald

I do have drivers and have taken a few stocks off and replaced them without screw damage but that is as far as I have been. Thanks. Gerald

First a good cleaning. The look at the sear and hammer notches, they could be worn. On the left side if in fact your doubling is thwn pulling right first. Sear spring can be a culprit too.

Gerald , your idea about carb cleaner will likely be sufficient. If that doesn’t cure it, you likely have worn sears which require filing. I’d suggest a good trigger gunsmith do that. I had to have sears recut once.

Waiting on the evening flights.

I would recommend a disassembly and cleaning.

However, after the wood is removed, choke spray a d blowing it out will not hurt the mechanism at all... that said, doing so may dislodge some crud but allow it to lodge somewhere else.





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How about wd40 residue over time? Gerald

do not use WD40, There are much better lubricants like Break Free or Clenzoil.

And Ballistol.





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I spent the morning with Kirk Marrington a few weeks ago, leaving him with and "armful" of various tasks on various guns.

I asked him what his opinion was for gun lubricant, and gun grease. He pointed to a one gallon can of WD 40, and a grimy plastic squirt bottle filled with same, and an ANCIENT glass jar of Vaseline, that was about half full.. He said "there you are mate!"

I have been using WD-40 ever since it came to market. Most of my guns have never seen anything but WD two of which are over 150,000 rounds with no repairs.

I just hate the way wd-40 gums up..it's good cutting fluid for aluminum though..

I told Kirk that I used Ballistol primarily. He had no issue with that, but said that he liked how thin wd was when trying to “flush” tight spots. Also stressed wiping down all excess. The vaseline was what really suprised me!

DO NOT USE WD 40. leaves gummy residue

I use WD 40 a lot for cleaning the exterior and easily accessible workings of guns, fishing reels, etc. But for cleaning and lubricating interior, less accessible, areas I like to clean with Ballistol and then lube lightly with rem oil or other spray lubricants. There are lots of good ones out there these days. WD-40 does seem to gum up after a while and that's the last thing I want inside my guns.

Not to hijack the thread, but one really good use I've found for WD 40 is knife sharpening. It cleans whetstones really well and acts as a good cutting oil while sharpening.

Here's an alternative for interior lubrication:

I have to admit my dislike for wd-40 has much to do with the fact it's a good cutting fluid for aluminum. Trouble is, it smokes-up quite a bit. Good news, it's cheap. Trouble is, as a preservative, it gums.

Effective and cheap is music to the ears of someone w/zero $$ and a desire to start a machining business. I cannot even fathom how much of that crap I inhaled in my earlier yrs. It got to the point the mere smell of wd-40 makes me want to vomit..even when it's at the ready in a can. Fortunately, there are other alternatives and now when either I, or someone else in the shop, is doing some manual work (requiring a brush-on application of lube), the shop smells like cinnamon. (tap-magic)

As for long term storage and protection, I think just about anything will work provided a little common-sense is applied.

I like WD 40 for cleaning and degunking. I then usually do a flush with brake cleaner and use either Ballistol or the Rig spray for lubing. But nothing beats Kroil is you have stuck screws.
I have a saturated Rig rag (cotton handkerchief) I use for wipe down prior to storage, and never have surface rust issues. Also use for joint lube.

Gerald,
I was shooting my Fathers Trojan 20 gauge and it started doubling. My heart sank with all the possibilities of the cause. When I arrived home I took the bottom floor plate off and immediately saw a glob of gunk under a sear. Once removed all worked perfectly. I hope yours is as simple a fix as mine was.
Harry

i too use wd40 for my gun cleaning no rust on my guns i have been useing it for many years..but as someone said about any oil lubeercant will work for cleaning guns...burnt motor oil i really good but a little messy...charlie

A local gun and pawn shop has a setup made of large pvc pipes filled with hd motor oil that he just soaks rusted guns in for a few days. He says that the detergent does wonders for removing rust. He had a couple soaking that he showed me. He had a revolver that the shells would not come out of the chambers. After soaking some just fell out and the other punched out easily. I'm not ready for that process yet. Thanks everyone. Gerald

Well I finally got around to taking it apart and giving it a good cleaning. I could not see anything other than some hardened lube and crud and not really much of that. Seems to have solved the problem. Thanks Friends Gerald