2k Nitro 27 hulls to use
 

Have not been reloading long.

I have a nice recipe with Nitro 27's, 3/4oz of #8, WIN209, Claybuster 0175, and 16.1 of Clay's = 7500psi and 1150fps. These are 2 3/4".

I'm ending up with 2 1/2" chambers and want to trim some of the Nitro 27's for use, and hopefully use as much of what I already have as possible. Plenty of WIN 209's on hand, 4lbs or more of Clays, 0175 and 4100 wads.

Lower pressure, lower recoil, are both important to me. Any suggestions you folks would have on what be done for a 2 1/2" shell with some of what I have?

Just use a "Hartin" crimp on them. Leave your press set up for 2-3/4 the way it usually is. Load the shell just like you would a 2-3/4" shell; after you drop your shot charge seat an overshot card then use your crimp starter station then finish with the final crimp. The overshot card will hold the shot in place. That is the way I do it. Can even write the shot size on the overshot card like the older shells.

Jack Kuzepski

What is a Nitro 27....?






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From memory Remington 27 yard trap load. Gold hull . I bought two boxes for the hulls , Shot them in my O/U. Butt kicking load.

I found primer seating less than optimal using Win 209s. Never found a good supply of Remington primers to try The Winchester’s seat but have a tendency to leave a high primer in the Remington hull 5 - 10 % High primer in a loaded shell is a problem. Not safe to push in deeper with a loaded shell. AAs have never had this issue. Gave up on the nitro 27s

Anybody have cures let me know. Useful to have some different color hulls to segregate certain loads.

William.

Mr. Graham:
If fooling with 2 1/2" shells makes you happy, fine. However, I've fired many thousands of reloaded 2 3/4" cartridges with 3/4 oz. of shot in all my 2 1/2" guns with no ill effects whatsoever. On average, pressures only increase about 50 psi or less. But don't take my word for it. Sherman Bell tested it all for Double Gun Journal years ago and found that it's not worth the worry.

I don’t cut 2 3/4 inch hulls down for my Parker’s either.

William

Nitro's are like STS"s, both a premium shell with smooth sides, one green and the other gold and with brass bases. As Kensal said there's not really a need to shorten them unless you like 2 1/2" shells. William, I reloaded Nitro's for years with Win and Cheddite primers and never had a problem with primers sticking out. Still have a hundred or so mixed in with my other Remington shells and they all reload the same. Remington 28ga hulls gave me a problem till I ran a drill through the primer hole to remove the plastic. Both 12 and 20 where kind of worry free for primer seating.

I haven’t had primer seating issues either, and am not generally fearful of 2 3/4” in 2 1/2” guns. However, since there are British guns in the mix with 2 1/2” chambers, it might be appropriate to have a 2 1/2” solution available. Probably doesn’t matter there either, but learning new solutions is a good thing.

None of the 26 British guns I have in the gunroom with 2 1/2" chambers seem to mind 2 3/4" cartridges. And haven't for decades.

I have problems with all Remington hulls and primers not seating flush no matter the gauge whether using Remington or Winchester primers. These are once fired hulls and using MEC reloaders. After the 1st or 2nd reloads the primers seat flush and yes, the primer seating station is adjusted properly. Never have the same problem with Winchester or Federal hulls.

While dims are close there are minor differences in primer sizes, this complicated by hull primer pocket differences . Problem I have is not pushing the handle hard enough when switching from AA hulls to Remington. No doubt a good strong push seats the Win Primer in a Remington hull. Takes me a few ruined hulls to get into sync. Same thing with Green Gun clubs I use for spreader loads. For some reason the 12 G steel GC less of a issue than STS 20s or 12 G Gold Nitros & the GC hulls cost nothing, pitch high primer hulls easily.

All probably looking linked to operator error, using AA hulls and Winchester primers reduces operator error.

William

Remington primers are tapered on the end where as no other primer is. I don't have one in front of me but from memory I believe they're also a tiny bit shorter. The 28ga hull has plastic going over the primer pocket opening and limits how far a primer will go in. I don't remember the number drill number right now [ broken foot- can't go down to the reloading room and check ] but a quick in and out and the plastic is cleared so any primer will work. I also use Mec reloaders - 600, 650, grabber, and 9000H - and never in 45 years of reloading have I had a problem with any Remington 12 or 20 ga hull. I'm not sure why any of you guys are but I guess it is what it is.

Back to your original question - what you have is great and will work but the problem you'll have is load height of the components. It will work if you roll crimp because the roll crimp uses less shell for the crimp. If you still want to fold crimp you'll have to use fiber wads or as I've done in the past use a wad meant for 1 3/8oz. It will have a shorter cushion, bringing the total load shorter. I believe I used a CB-1138 and put 7/8 or 1oz of shot in it. The petals will fold over with the shell when crimped. 2 1/2" shells look cool, and Nitro's are a really good shell. Almost as good as the old Blue ones, but nothing beats one of them for reloading. If you do decide to roll crimp you'll also need a tool to open the crimp back up after firing it. I save the roll crimps for shells I'm going to throw away, not nice Nitro's or STs's. Good luck, hope this helps.

On my MEC Size-Master I use a washer on the primer seater to increase the length and have no problems with high primers. I remove it when using Winchester and Cheddite hulls. Simple and works a champ!

Paul, thanks for the tip on reloading Remington 28ga. hulls. The drill bit clears the primer hole but hits the plastic so it doesn't go completely through. Drilled out the plastic and the primers seated no problem. It adds 2 steps to the reloading process (knocking out the primer, and reaming the hole with the drill), then reloading. I'll do this on the Remington hulls I have, then switch to Winchester or Federal. I don't have any once fired 20ga. Gun Clubs to check but I suspect they are the same due to my problems loading primers in them. I did check once fired Remington Premier 12ga. hulls and they also will not allow the drill bit to go completely through the primer pocket. Not a problem as I only load Federal in 12ga.