Case Color Lacquer
 

Has anyone used Connecticut Shotguns Case Color Lacquer to help protect the case colors on a Reproduction? If so, what were your experiences with it and do you think it helps? Thanks, Steve

I have a bottle of it and have applied it to a couple of my guns. It does impart an amber colored hue to the colors. It probably helps protect. If you do not care for the amber-look it's easily removed with acetone (finger nail polish remover) without damaging the original colors.

I use hardware store spray lacquer with good results. No issues to date. Wears well. No discoloration. Works for me. I think you could also use IBIZ wax, which is supposedly pure carnuba and contains no abrasives and which is very hard. That's what I use on all my damascus bbls with excellent results.

It is basically shellac.

I use clear Brushing Laquer, purchased from Lowes. Only $10 for a quart. That will do hundreds of guns plus other stuff. Smooths out nicely with a small artist brush. Use on trigger guard also if bluing is good. When you need to redo, you have to clean off all of the old because the new will dissolve the old and cause streaking.

I use a light coat of rattle-can lacquer. Quick and easy, no brush marks.

How do keep it off the wood, wouldn't go well on an oil finish?..

Done properly, the wood comes off, and screws, pins, and top lever come out. Failing that, it's probably best to use a brush and keep the stuff away from wood/pins/screws. I don't know what you would do around the top lever. Ideas, anyone?

If you can paint by numbers you can apply Case Color Lacquer with a brush without removing the wood. If you can't, then have a small cotton rag handy and wipe the lacquer off where you got a little of it on the wood. It's as simple as that.

Why risk damage by removing the wood to spray when brushing without risk is so easy that anyone can do it with perfect results?

Concerning the application of lacquer to preserve colors would mineral spirits be acceptable as a degreaser prior to application? Also how many coats of lacquer do you typically apply ?

The "case color" on a Parker Reproduction is entirely different from original or even restored bone charcoal case colors. I would be very, very careful about what 'chemicals' I would apply to the "case colors" (which are not the result of color case hardening but are an applied stain) on a Repro.





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Thanks Dean. For clarification the info I seek does not pertain to PR's.

Actually Randy, my response was to Steve Hodges' opening question and anyone else who might be considering applying anything to their Repro's case colors. I've seen those applied colors flake off almost as often as I have seen them prematurely wear off.





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I had "case colors" flake off my RBL. They covered the re-do, no charge

Weren't the RBL's case colored with the authentic bone & charcoal case coloring process?

I’ve applied lacquer to a few items w/cc, including a P. Reproduction or two. I wipe with lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol first, and haven’t ever had any issue whatsoever. Tip - use a lint free cloth.

Greg - Not unless real case colors flake off around the top lever axle

UK gunmakers always used boiled linseed oil. Sometimes a bit of Japan dryer is added. (Which is exactly what Linspeed is) Tru-Oil works fine. Use a tissue, but some are much more 'lint-free' than others.

Oscar Gaddy told me years ago that he used TESTORS clear ...as in model paints...to protect the colors...

I saw something about a year and a half ago concerning a company that makes metal patinas that will replicate this chemical case coloring. It was not Steel FX. These were much bolder colors. I wish I could remember who it was making these, they even had a nice video showing how to color a receiver. Best I can recall, someone over on the 16 ga. site posted it, possibly as a reply. if I find out I will pass it along for anyone wanting to restore theirs.

Bachelder told me he used Tru Oil thinned 50% and I've used that on mine with good results.

This is a cc product

https://youtu.be/5HhzOJohNzo