Opening Chokes
 

To anyone that has opened the chokes on your Repro barrels. Question since they are chrome lined did this present any problems when they were opened up, reamed? I've had a number of barrels opened up, but none with chrome lined barrels.

Gerry - I had my 28 Ga Opened by Briley. No Problems - you might want to call them. Billy

Thanks Billy, that helps.

I had my repro 28" 28ga chokes opened by Mike Orlen several years ago with no problems.

Great, sounds like no one has seen a problem cutting into the Chrome lining.

In these days of non-corrosive primers, what advantage is there for chrome lined barrels?

Indeed!





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Why do plastic shot cups influence this? Never heard that before

Plastic shot cups, which have been in use since the 60's, not only tighten patterns by virtually eliminating shot deformation - and bore scoring from the more recent steel shot - so I don't get the need for chrome lined bores either.





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I believe chrome lined bores were a solution for steel shot

Is there a down side?

I love the way the chrome lined bores clean up so easily and the added corrosion protection is only a plus in my view.

I have been told the choke area is not chrome lined. SXS ohio

MD*GSP - ditto that.

I have a Browning with not chrome lined bbls and a Parker Reproduction with chrome lined bbls. The chrome lined bbls clean with less effort and faster.

If all Parker Repro barrels are chrome line to handle steel shot, why is there a Steel Shot Special PR version?

The SSS is slightly over bored and choked for best steel shot patterning.
Bob Jurewicz

All, I have two Parker Reproductions with barrel modifications. One is a 3" 12 ga with aftermarket Briley Screw in chokes. The other is a 28 ga two barrel set with the 26" barrels opened to SKT & SKT then again opened more to .001 and .003 for skeet and grouse/woodcock in thick cover. No regrets.
Steve Kleist
Ely, MN

Adding to Bob’s synopsis of the SSS..

According to sales literature, the SSS was also intended to have additional weight as compared to the standard weight of the DHE. This indicates that the standard 12 ga was intended for the uplands and the SSS was intended to make heavier loads a bit easier on the shoulder.

I've heard from modern day muzzle loader shooters who shoot saboted bullets that plastic fouling\buildup is a problem, and cleaning it is a PITA. Rifling in the barrel probably contributes to this.

Speculatively, chrome plated shotgun barrels may be smoother and\or have less of an affinity for plastic fouling? If so, opening up a choke and removing the chrome plating may create a place where plastic from shot cups could build up?

I would not let that stop me from making the chokes what I wanted them to be, but there may be an added step to remove plastic fouling after a lot of shooting. Just a theory at this point.

Plastic shot cups tighten patterns versus old shells because the shot cup cushions the shot, reducing or eliminating deformation or scrubbing of the shot as it travels down the barrel. In my experience, plastic deposition is not a big deal. I've heard that modern shells pattern about one choke tighter than old shells, but haven't sween any testing to confirm that.
I shoot a lot of sporting clays, and probably don't need any special treatment more than once a year, when I spray the barrels with carb cleaner. Because our shotguns don't have rifling, cleanup is easy, and not required as frequently

I had the chokes opened to .004 and .008 on my 20ga 26" repro. It is my primary grouse gun. Prior to the start of hunting season I'll put close to a 1000 rounds through it. I have never had an issue cleaning or with plastic buildup. In my view the powder used is much more prone to cleaning issues. I have never regretted opening the chokes.

The problem with plastic in a muzzle loader is black powder will melt the plastic in the barrel.

I have opened the chokes on two Parkers and have nightmare's over it. At one point I thought IC was the best of all worlds and opened up the left barrel to match the right on a GH I used for everything. Now I prefer about .015 constriction, light modified, and .025 an improved modified. I have a VH with 26" barrels choked like that. The other set of barrels are 30" with .030 and .042.
The other Parker opened up was a 32" VH choked full and fuller. 3" chambers and IC both barrels to shoot steel through. I want to throw up every time I think about that.

Harry

Thanks for the experience-based info on plastic fouling in smooth bores. I'd never seen it but you guys shoot a lot more than I do. I am going to have to do something about that.

I shoot 3-4 rounds of skeet per week with my SSS. The thing is you can't see the plastic build up when looking down the barrels. However when I apply some solvent in the barrels it is amazing how the plastic rolls up when I send a jag down the barrels.

After discovering this I scrub the barrels on all my guns more frequently during shooting seasons.

I found that the plastic buildup in my 20 gauge Repro skeet gun really played havoc with my patterns and might possibly cause excessive pressure. I was amazed at the solvent-softened gummy buildup that I removed from the barrels.






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I am no expert or professional in ammunition construction.

But from a purely observational/experience standpoint, I've noticed these factors effect plastic fouling buildup.

1) Gun cleaning. If a gun is not cleaned throughly after each use, fouling hardens and layers up.
2) Ammunition choice. Import stuff is a cypher as to powder and wad quality.
3) Handloaded ammo powder choice. Powders like Red Dot foul more and create more fouling/drag.
4) Handload wad choice. Known quality wads like Claybuster are made with specially formulated plastic and foul less. Imports? They often foul more.
5) Primer choice. Federal or CCI Magnum primers help to more fully burn heavy fouling powders, leave less residue and thus less drag on subsequent wads/shots fired.

These are my observations only. See your ammunition professional for details. Tom Armbrust is one.

I use claybuster wads.

I had an issue with plastic buildup one time. It was with a well regarded low pressure factory load.

I use claybuster wads for everything and have never had an issue with plastic buildup in any of the guns I load for, chrome lined or not.

I have been using Gunzilla to clean shotgun bores for about 10 years. First saw it at the Grand American Tournament and while being very effective on plastic wad residue it is also much safer to use than some other solvents. Like some have mentioned, I didn't think I was getting wad buildup until I cleaned a bore or two with something like this that is very effective. I clean the bores of every shotgun I shoot every day after a hunt or trip to the range. Didn't always do this but had the chambers rust in a nice M21 Winchester because I was lazy. One of those things that make you sick when it was so preventable and I vowed it would never happen again.

I opened up the chokes on one of my Repros. No regrets.
I also clean my guns as soon as I get home. No issues with fouling

As my dad told me never let the sun set on a dirty gun.

In my limited experience soft shot vs hard can make a huge difference in opening up patterns on paper, even more than card wads vs plastic wads.

I know of a original DHE that bulged a barrel unexpectedly, not mine but word was no obstruction noticed at home after shooting. Don’t know for sure what caused it. We suspect plastic build up from wads. High volume clays gun.

William

Chrome lining helps prevent/forestall plastic fouling. Several days of high volume dove shooting will verify this. Hot barrels will build up plastic fouling much more. When the chambers build up with plastic to the point that the empties will not eject, but the bores are clear, it's pretty obvious the advantage of the chrome lining. I've seen this many times on my 20 ga. Beretta 687 SPII Sporting, in Argentina.

For most applications it may not hold any advantage. But, for high volume, it is as obvious as a neon sign on a dark highway.

What is the best bore solvent to use in cleaning gun barrels?

Hoppes no.9 and a frontier pad

That's what I've been using for over 50 yrs.