Case Colors
 

Some time back Bruce Day suggested an option is to do bone charcoal case colors on a Repro. Last year I sent my 20g to Turnbull and I am extremely pleased with the result. (I'm sure Bachelder would have done a fine job also). I am seriously considering sending them my 28g Repro. and even an unfired BHE. I'm fully aware of the POSSIBILITY of not recovering my full investment in these guns but the pleasure of seeing them and using them is worth it to me. My question is this: Since the metallurgy is different in them has anyone used a Repro enough after bone charcoal restoration of the metal to know if the bone charcoal cc holds up as well as the bone charcoal cc on original Parkers?

Any pictures of the 20?

I'm having my 12 gauge reproduction redone I'm curious how it turned out.

Kirk: I'll post some.

Turnbull cc on repro.

Gun has been hunted with one season since new cc.

John Gillette of Classic Guns, Inc. re-casecolored this 12-ga. Parker Reproduction Sporting Clays Classic using the bone charcoal method 6 or 7 years ago. Gillette applied a thinned down coat of Galazan's Case Color Lacquer before returning the gun. These pics were recently taken and the gun has been used a quite a bit since being recolored. It would not be a stretch to say that bone charcoal colors will hold up much better than those colors that were originally applied on Parker Repros.

Someone may correct me if I'm wrong but the bone charcoal color case-hardening process actually creates a molecular bonding of the carbon molecules that produce the color to the steel, whereas the Parker Reproduction colors are more of a staining process which time and use has proven to easily flake off or wear off quickly.






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Repros were not actually case hardened originally. But instead stained with something to look like case colors. That is why they wear off so easily.

As this thread represents, the frames take true case colors very well. I have had a numner of reapro frames case colored by turnbull and they all came out great. Just as good as original parkers.

I can not believe how timely this thread is. I can barely stand looking at my 28ga repro, but I intend to go all the way, having the comb, and fore end reshaped more like Meriden than Remington. It will then be finished with a proper linseed oil finish.

How then will you eliminate the "PARKER" on the underside of the frame?
Do you intend to have "Parker Bros." engraved in the vacant banner spaces on the sides of the frame?
What about the lack of mullering on the borders of the checkering?
What about the roll stamp that is lacking on the top rib?

I'm sorry... I couldn't help myself Edgar.





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"wow..."

My intent is not to disguise the gun, and misrepresent it as an 'original' Meriden Parker, but to merely change the cosmetic characteristics which I don't care for, in favor of those on early Meriden guns. I do not like the blunt bull nosed later style fore end, and also prefer the more delicate nose to the comb. As for the muddy plastic appearance of the wood finish, well, I think I've heard you on that topic, and while the wood is being addressed, we certainly agree there are one or two craftsmen who do know what mullered borders should look like. . My reasoning is simply to address the adage akin to not hunting with a gun that will embarrass your dog' ,I want to at least like looking at the gun. Of course, it would be easy enough to strike the "Parker" engraved on the underside of the receiver, and leave the banners blank, as would be the case of transition Parkers. As I recall my old GHE28 had no name on the receiver what ever. Likewise I do not intend to remove the Winchester nomenclature, or have the barrels properly rust blued.

If, on the remote chance that all your questions were to only wind me up, as you are often want to do, I would simply say............Bugger Off.

I'll accept the "Bugger Off" Edgar, as that was my intent..... :clap:


(Edgar and I really are pretty good friends for those who might be in doubt.)





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Gentleman: I edited my question to express the way I intended to ask it. Thanks for any replies.

What's the approximate cost to case color a Repro?

It is likely best to ask those who do the work.
Case coloring itself is typically a base price that is published by most all vendors who do it. Prep and polishing would typically be above and beyond and will vary based on the vendor and the job.

John Gillette did a superb job case coloring a Ken Hurst engraved A1 special that I had a few years ago. Still have some seller's regrets on that one...

My GH done by John Gillette.

On a repro that has little use but case colors are fading what is the cost?

The only note i have to add about case coloring repros is that the tang screw block on the trigger plate is a separate piece that is soldered in place (for some reason). So, the part has to be tack welded in place before case coloring or else it will fall out in the quench.

Parker reproductions have such beautiful wood but colors fade fast. Original Parkers colors last for over 100 years. Which is better, old or new? I have both.