Barrels won't come off.
 

I looked up the subject but mine is a little different, safety only works on left barrel and the barrels will not come off no matter how many times I dry fire it. And here something I have never seen. The gun cocks with the fore are off. This is a Trojan I just picked up to play with but did not expect this. any ideas??? Thanks Frank

Unhooking slide is stuck.

The safety not working properly is a separate issue.

Sounds more like worn, broken, or bent part(s) than simply being cruddy inside.




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Mr. Halsey:
If you want to get the barrels off your gun, you have a couple of choices:

1) Take it to a qualified double gunsmith. This is the best course. But failing that...

2) Remove the forearm, open the gun and lay it down on the right side. This will just barely expose the large head, lateral screw though the barrel lump. Clean the crud out of the screw slot with a pointed tool such as a scribe. Make a screwdriver to fit the slot EXACTLY. Then remove the screw. This will free the hook and spring that connect the barrel unit to the cocking slide, and allow barrel removal. Don't lose any parts.

3) Now take the whole kit to a good double gunsmith to find out what caused the problem and have it corrected properly.

Not ALL guns will fully expose the hook screw when the breech is open.

If you try this route, tread carefully.

Whether you're able to gain sufficient access to the screw or not, removing the barrels this way only gets the barrels off, but doesn't correct the problem, which as Brian says, is more than likely that the cocking slide is not coming all the way back, for a variety of reasons. The most likely is old congealed grease or crud.

It seems to work on 9 out of 10 twelve gauges. It does not work on sixteen and smaller from samples I've tried. It is best a two person job since you have to exert extra opening pressure for the screw to clear the frame.

Then you may be able to put some penetrating oil on the offending part.

Frank, Trojan??

Jerry, I know there is at least one 0 frame (BHE20) that I was able to do this on. Many years ago, when my day was still alive, and I was half the age I am now, I was playing with a couple of his Parkers and swapped the barrels from a CHE20 to his BHE20, because I wanted to see how it felt with 26" barrels instead of the 30" on the BHE. They snapped right into place, and closed well enough, but no amount of finagling would let me get them back off. My dad was upstairs, and I had to get home, so to say I was sweating bullets might be an understatement.
I was able to repmove the cocking lever screw without any trouble, because with the fore end off, the barrels would move back just enough to allow the full head of the screw to turn freely out. I will never forget that incedent, because some time later, my Dad called me up to say he was playing around swapping barrels, and got the same barrels stuck on the same BHE. I came over to his house, and quickly removed the screw. I felt guilty when he said "Wow, how did you know how to do that?" I don't think I ever told him.
I just went downstairs and looked at all my hammerless guns, and only one 1 1/2 Frame 12 will let me do it, and a 1 frame DHE 16 will also.

I remember that story well Edgar. I think the first time I ever heard you recite it in person when I made the same dummy move....:whistle:






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Edgar,

Funny story. My study may be flawed since obviously I have not looked at multiple guns with stuck barrels. I have only actually stuck one doing the same swap and got them off by removing the screw. It does give you a sickening feeling in your stomach when you do it.

But the others I looked at I used the hypothesis that with stuck barrels they would not open further than they normally would with the forend on. Thus the gauge conclusion. So all ignore my data, please.

I put a set of Fox Sterlingworth barrels on another gun and put the forend of the original gun on them. They fit, but a tight forend fit, and I pulled the screws out of the wood trying to get the forend off. Felt like an idiot, which I was.

Jerry - at least the lug stayed on the barrels...






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Thank you all for your very good advice. Yes, it was a Trojan in very nice shape but the barrels. I did take the screw out and the barrels came off. when I put them back together, it did the same thing. Off to my gunsmith who is a wizard on metal problems on guns. I will let you know what it was so if some one else has this problem, we will know of one cure. Frank

Well... tell him to take a look at the unhooking slide in the trigger plate and he will find the cure.

Ditto big time!

barrels
 

Brian, you were right again. When he took it apart and got the spring and plunger working again. it is working find now. Thanks again. See you guys in a few weeks. Frank :bigbye:

Did that fix the safety issue?

safety issue all good too.