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Over powder wads
In the short ten has anyone tried over powder wads to take up space and then an SP-10? This allows all the shot to stay in the shot cup. I tried a 16 gauge half inch wad but I do not think it got as good an ignition. Too small I would guess. Anyone tried this with 10 gauge over powder wads? Would that and an SP-10 increase pressure? Must have been or there is a reason is is not? Thanks for help you can provide....
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Bob, use a 16 gauge cork or felt wad in the SP10 wad placed under the shot to raise the shot column up to proper height for crimping for the load you are using.
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right - the 16ga wad goes in the shot cup
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It is tighter patterns I am after. I have been using a 16 gauge wad in the shot cup but that put a lot of shot outside of the cup with a 1 1/4 load. My EM Riley has more open chokes than my Remington and I was trying tighten things up a bit...and as an experiment just to see the effects.
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I have done this using black powder 12 ga. loads. But only use the cup portion of the wad. Filler is hard card and fiber with the shot cup placed on the fiber filler. It does work but I would not use the cushion part of the wad as I'd be very leery of the filler jamming into the shirt of the plastic cushion and causing pressure problems. I cut the cup off with a sharp utility knife of a razor saw. Just use the cup.
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As you've discovered, you will get faulty ignition using a 16ga wad over the powder, because you don't have a good gas seal, and a uniform charge.
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Why don't you just cut your shells a bit shorter ?
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The HEVI-SHOT company uses flax seed as a filler, so everything stays in the shot cup and the seed is placed on top. This would allow you to use the SP10 wad and keep the shot inside and adjust the amount of filler you need for each shell. Flax seed is cheap, less than $5 for two pounds.
Plus you can eat it while reloading and have a healthy heart! |
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The best ways to tighten a pattern are; larger shot, slower velocity, harder shot (maybe try copper coated), and granulated buffer. Perhaps you could try a mylar wrap and see what that does. |
Thanks for all the advice! I think I will try shortening some shells...maybe be some Blue dot loads which use a lot more powder. The harder shot and mylar wrap are worth some experimentation too. Sure is fun experimenting with these short tens....
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seems like the mylar wrap does really well with large shot such as bbs and no 2 shot in the 8 ga should work well in the 10 ga also....charlie
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Take a look at their cutaway drawing. https://www.hevishot.com/catalog/hevi-metal/ |
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what does a box of this cost jerry i guess you mostly use this on ducks and such..charlie
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The Hevi-metal which is a combination of Hevi-shot and steel costs about $32 a box in 3 1/2" 12 gauge. The 3" shells are about $27 a box. I use pure Hevi-shot for turkeys, but I can't afford $4.50+ a shell for geese where I might shoot a half of a box on a good day. Even if I reload 1 1/2 ounces of all Hevi-shot or HeavyWeight 13 which is similar, it costs me nearly $3 a shell. To me it is not worth the time to do it when the Hevi-metal seems to work well on geese for $1.35 a shell. It shows a mixture of half Hevi-shot and half steel, but it comes out at 1500 fps which I can't reload since I don't have the formula. |
I don't think flax seed would effect patterns but too thick a card over the shot will. A normal OS card is .028. Circle Fly offered a card twice that thick for use in brass shells claiming they don't have to be glued in like the thin ones. All they did was blow a hole in the center of my patterns and really didn't stay in to well. I went back to the .028 cards.
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How about 10 ga. card over-powder wads under the SP10 wad? I have tried this in the past with no obvious bad results. At one time I had some 10 ga. plastic op wads but they are long gone. You will have to spend some time at the patterning board!
C.G.B. |
i too have used over powder wads then theplastic wad works great in the 8 ga and 10 ga..i m sure it would work well over the other ga s too....charlie
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