Parker Brothers 12 Gauge SxS......Help.......Pics!
 

My buddy has had a Shotgun sitting around his house forever. It belonged to his Grandfather. I was gonna clean it up for him so we can shoot it but this thing looks pretty old? Any info would help...........

I know very little about shotguns so please bear with me.

-The barrel is 30" 12G and is marked "Parker Brothers, Makers, Meriden, Conn, Vulcan Steel" on the bottom of the barrel, where the barrel connect to the frame, there are the following markings (Kf) (WK with a circle around it) (42) and a (2). The barrel has no SN# that I can find.

-The bottom hand guard is marked Pat D. Mar, 26, 1878. It also has a SN# 130293

-The buttstock and frame are marked Pat'D Jan 18. Aug 18. 1887, there is a 293 that is down in the frame, and a SN# 130293 with a V on top.

The pictures tell the rest I suppose.

I would like to know:

1) All info reguarding the shotgun (Date it was made, Value, etc.)?

2) Is it safe to shoot?

3) It has some light surface rust and needs a good cleaning. How is this best done? CLP?

Thanks

Tenbrook


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Hi "TenBrook"

If you wouldn't either posting your real name or Private Message me the same - I'll get your login/screen name set..

My thanks,

John

Parker SN130293
 

Hello "TenBrook": On this forum we use our real names. Your friend's Parker SN 130293 is in the "Book" as a 12 Gauge V Grade made in 1905. It lists as a hammerless gun with capped pistolgrip stock, no extras (so it is an extractor gun) with 30 inch barrels. On the top rib sould read "Parker Bros. Makers Meridan, Conn U.S.A. Vulcan Steel". You have a nice old Parker with fluid steel barrels. Have a competent gunsmith check it over and order a letter from PGCA ($60 for non-members & $40 for members) If OKd by the smith shoot it all day with low brass skeet & target loads (no steel shot or magnums please).

Best Regards, George

Cody Tenbrook......Nice to meet ya :)

Not that it would ever be sold but its kinda fun to know.......Any idea on the value?

Hey ya' Cody!

Welcome to the Forum..!

:cheers:

And my thanks back at you!! I'll get your login/screen name set in a second - but, I just wanted to say Thanks and Welcome ;)

John

Cody: Your Parker VH should be worth for insurance purposes in the range of $1,200 - $1,800 judging by the condition shown in the pictures. The WK on your gun is the initials of Walter King who inspected your gun when it was built. On the rust I would try some 4/0 steel wool & WD40 and a lot of elbow grease.

I hope this helps, Best Regards.....George

I found that maroon Scotch Brite and WD40 also works well. Easier on the fingers.

Watch those scotch brite pads or any other pads. I would rather you use standard steel wool. I have seen pads that would scratch a chrome bumper. I have the chrome bumper to prove it. If the stuff doesn't all come off, the gun will look better and lose less value than if you cut it until it shines.

Please resist the urge to disassemble the gun till you have read here about the screws;their condition and orientation are important in a Parker.This forum contains detailed instructions for cleaning and disassembly if you wish to do this or have a gunsmith familiar with Parkers do this.Good luck,Hugh.

The principal cause of damage to Parkers is amateur messing with them.

That $850 gun can get to $500 real quick by trying to clean it up.

I recommended the maroon color. The color tells you what the abrasive quality is. Maroon is a very light abrasive. I agree if you use the wrong color it will scratch.

Where would I find them? I have tried the search function with no success. :rolleyes:

Greg, Go to the home page...Go to FAQ....Tenth question down should help you out.

How about joining the PGCA?....

If you try bronze wool and gun oil, or No. 9 solvent, you will be surprised at how much crud you can take off without damaging the aged patina and/or bluing. I use brass scrapers for scaly rust, followed by the bronze wool. Good luck. Cheers!

Thank you; becoming a member is one of my goals for the year. When I go to the FAQ, all I get is a search page, which yields zip when I try disassembly, cleaning, etc. ? :banghead:

Greg, That's strange. I don't think it's for member's only. Maybe John will weigh in here.

Hi guys,

I'm on the road but Greg, I'm so sorry for the difficulties! Dave is right, it's not closed to members only. Let me take a look when I get back (I'm traveling and writing this from my iPhone), ok? As well, Robin has done simply a fantastic job at pulling together the reference areas of the PGCA website for everyone, so maybe Robin can take a look as well?

Anyway- so sorry for any difficulties at all..!

John

You can say that again!

Robin has done simply a fantastic job at pulling together the reference areas of the PGCA website for everyone John

;)

:biglaugh::biglaugh::biglaugh:

Thanks guys.

Words of Wisdom from the PGCA brotherhood
 

I concur 100% with the previous posts re: strip and cleaning a Parker Hammerless double, whether it is an ejector or extractor gun. And I favor OOOO grade steel wool and both Kroil thinned slightly with acetone or WD-40, plus Hoppe's No. 9 and Rem Oil aerosol.

Old Boy Scout survival tip- carry several wads of OOOO steel wool in your emergency firestarting kit- it has just enough oil in its composition to aid in starting a fire, that same oil will also assist in removing minor crud and rust. An older typewriter eraser- hard to find in today's non-typewriter using era, soaked in Hoppe's is also a mild abrasive and can work.

The heads of all the machine screws seen on your Parker are one of the many things Parker experts examine when appraising your gun. Indexing or clocking of the screw head slots, meaning they all faced in the same direction (like 12 to 6 o'clcok) and no mars or boogered slots.

Those two "no-no's" are a sure sign of a ham fisted amateur trying to field strip a Parker (or other fine doublegun). I would wait for the posting on the FAQ from John Dunkle, and also suggest you spend a few $ on at least two things: a duplicate set of Grace hardened and ground gunsmith screwdrivers (you won't fine any Phillips head tips in their mix- Brownell's is a good source, also Midway)-- reason for the second set- because that way you have enough to allow you to grind the shank and tip, if needed to an exact fit for special screws you may encounter. Most have a tapered slot, and the closer to perfect fit you have with your "turnscrew" the less chance you have of a slip and mar result- NOT GOOD.

Second is a set of small magnets- as all Parker metal parts (except perhaps the sight beads) are from forged steel, magnets are perfect for your gun bench to keep small machine screws, pins, springs etc. from getting lost.

A well padded vise, a gunsmith soft tip or brass hammer, various drift and pin punches- and a lot of patience are also important.

If you have a competent gunsmith in your area that is quaified to work on Parker guns, perhaps you could offer to pay him for a "hands on dis-assembly/re-assembly" drill- not a complete tear down to all parts, but enough so you can clean and inspect your gun with a solid degree of confidence.:bigbye:

I looked at this and it looks like the instructions that I found and linked to in google books was changed and the instructions are no longer available. I removed the FAQ link to the google book.:(

Mark,
Where can you find bronze wool? I've looked for it and haven't been able to find it. Eric

I generally find it in the old hardware stores. Not every one has it , but it's a good place to start and the smallest I can find is fine. There is fine /med and coarse. Mine is made by Homax. I've never been on their site but it's on the package, www.homaxproducts.com Hope this helps. If you can't find it let me know and I'll mail you a pad. A small amount goes pretty far.
Tom

Thanks Tom I will check around and maybe look on the web, if not I may take you up on your offer. Thanks Eric

I went past the hardware store that I generally find the bronze wool and stopped in. I bought a 3 pad pack for $7.54. If you want me to send it to you let me know. I believe my email is in my information.
Tom