Hinge pin shim material
 

When shimming to bring a gun back on face, and a piece of aluminum can is too thick, what do people tend to use? Eventually it might be repaired with some TIG welding, but for now a shim needs to be the solution.

Shim material sold by Brownells.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...k-prod589.aspx

Or an oversized roll joint can be installed.

Thank you. The solution needs to be one I can perform myself, and this sounds like a significant repair left to the truly skilled. If it's not that difficult for the hobbyist/student, where do you find an oversized roll joint?

How about a feeler gauge?

Exactly frank. You can cut off a piece of whatever thickness feeler gauge material you may need. It can then be annealed to remove the spring from it. And then soldered in place. It would need to be soldered in with a very low temp solder like Tix in order to be able to get the solder to flow on the thick barrel lug.

In regards to oversized roll joints. They come from me. I have them pre-made in 3 over-sizes ready to be fitted to the gun.

As for any hobbyist refitting barrels. Any method used: be it shim, welding or roll replacement, the hook and breech still need to be re-fitted after the addition of material is done. It is not a matter of just slapping in a shim and calling it a day.

shim material
 

Most auto parts stores carry or can order shim material, just tell them how thick it needs to be, if you know a machine shop they may give you a piece of shim material for nothing, check it out. It is usually made of brass, easy to solder.

Ron Moore

Thin out the beer can section with a file or sandpaper.

stick the shim material to the joint with Loctite 380black max. you need to use something with the radius of joint to hold and press it in place till it dries. Brownells has the Loctite or you may find it in automotive stores. a large drill or piece of rod to hold the shim in place with pressure.

Purchased a set of feeler gauges from an auto parts store. Roughed up the mating surfaces. Used Devcon as the adhesive. Held it in all place with a 3/8" drive socket extension wrapped in masking tape, wood blocks and a c-clamp. A small amount of sanding with a dowel wrapped in emory cloth was all that was needed to finish the fit. Tight on face, no shake, all is well.

That must be one oversized hinge pin if you used a 3/4" drive extension.

Typo. Sorry. 3/8".

Devcon didn't hold after shooting. Tried 380 Black Max a well. Not luck. Surfaces have been properly cleaned and scuffed gently.

I'll find a micro TIG welder around town have it dealt with that way. I'm only shy about .002" so most of what is added will come back off.

You might check with Al Edge of Old Dominion Firearms. He did some microwelding on a set of hammer gun sears for me and did excellent work for a very reasonable price.

I have only shimmed one shotgun but it turned out great. It was a IJ 16 Gauge Skeeter. It also needed.002 of shim. I did nothing other than shim it and it worked perfect needing nothing else.
I bought a cheap feeler gauge, removed the blade, rolled it over a round bladed screw driver, cut it close to size and then used 3M 1751 2 part adhesive on the shim. Held it in place with a waxed wood dowel clamped for 24 hours.
Once it dryed I cleaned up with a file. A little dab of Mobil 33 grease and it worked and looked great.
1751 is very expensive, but what I had available from a left over aircraft project. I would think a good high strength two part epoxy like JB Weld made for metal would work just about as well.

I've always used a Coke can. I cut it a bit narrow so it can squeeze out if it's too thick. I also use Brad Bachelder - he has a guy who micro welds and then he fits it. Just depends if I feel cheap or want to spend the money [ ususally a $100 or so ]. I've never had any luck trying to glue / epoxy shims on - the stuff never sticks.

Found a fellow who applied a neat and tidy weld yesterday. I tried a can first, and it was too thick. The weld solution will be for the best I think; just take some time to fit it.

The TIG weld worked great and the gun is nicely back on face and operates smoothly.

Now the forend iron is too tight, I expect due to effectively relocating the forend lump. It seems like the rear facing surface now need to shaved slightly, but wanted to check here. Is that the current surface to focus on?

Thanks for your help. This basket case is nearly a basket case no more.

I purchased brass shims from the hardware store in various thicknesses for less than $10.00. Cut a piece the width of the roll about 1/2" long and wrapped it around a punch to get the curve. Put it on the roll and back on face.

Be careful on the forend. It should be snug as this helps maintain a tight on the hook condition when the breech is open. If the forend installs and the latch snaps. Then it needs no attention.

The forend would install 95% of the way, and the latch would not snap. I lightly dressed fore and aft, until it now installs and closes well. Thanks for the guidance.

I think it's all as good as I can make it now. The gun is much better than it was when I got it, which was the goal.

It's about as good as I can get it, and what I could afford to do. Happy to have learned many things along the way.

Brian, if you don't mind, what do you charge for a new roll?

I should have gone with an oversized roll joint in the first place. Got one coming this week from Brian. He was very helpful with picking the right size for the job, and it was $125.

Wow! That's more than reasonable!

Joe,
Sorry i did not see your question on the cost when you first asked it.
Yes, $125 for a new roll joint in one of three oversizes.