Repro barrels
 

Guys,

How were the ribs attached to the repros?
Soft lead solder like original guns or higher temp silver solder or some other?

Thanks.

Per brochures they were brazed.

So they should withstand much higher barrel temps from shooting correct?

I am looking into one (a sporting clays model) for a flurry gun. I do not think an original Parker could take the heat produced during a flurry event.

I do not think they are brazed. I have blued a number of sets of Parker Repro barrels and the joints appear to be soft soldered, just like the original guns.

Here's what the brochure says:

Well, you have to trust the literature I suppose.

John, a Parker Repro has always been my 1st and only choice when shooting both competitive and practice flurries that were part of all eleven U.P. S X S Classics and The Great Northern S X S Classic because of their brazed barrel construction. I've had supreme confidence in that they'll hold together which has been proven out scores of times that I've shot 76 birds in 2 1/2 minutes flurry events without a hiccup. Horses for courses.

I thought we did An anecdotal survey on this a few years ago. It was based on visual ID of whether solder or braze was used. But keep in mind, a very low content of alloying silver into solder, significantly raises the melting temperature while having little effect that might be identified visually.

The American Welding Society destinguishes brazing from soldering when temperatures for melting the filler material are in excess of 840F

Here's a link that might answer your questions regarding high volume / fast shooting with a Parker Reproduction.

http://parkerguns.org/forums/archive...hp?t-3076.html

"In Argentina we did six days of shooting & I managed to run 10,000 rounds through it in twelve shoots. Two of the shoots were over 2000 rounds each with the high one being just over 2500. The gun took all the abuse I could hand it. When you shoot 2500 rounds in a little over three hours you can imagine how many times the gun get's opened & slammed shut let alone how hot it gets....."

A number of years ago, I soldered a set of barrels with high temp Hi-Force 44 which melts at 650F. That solder had no color or surface indications any different than lead-tin solder.

My point is; there are many many solder alloys out there with all different melting temperatures, most of which are higher than 363F 60/40 tin/lead.

Hi-force 44 flows at 475 degrees.

Brian, Hi-temp Hi-force 44 melts at 650f. Two different solders.

Is my math right? Is that a round every 3.5 seconds for 2.5 hours? That's incredible!

Gotcha. Missed the high temp part. Thanks for clarifying.

Your forend wood will burst into flames (or the multi-trap will seize) before you ever remotely approach the temps required to melt the solder used to hold your barrels together.

Standard 60/40 tin-lead solder melts at 360f.

. . . and wood will burst into flames at 572 degrees fahrenheit.

solder
 

Anyone where to get 60/40 or 50/50 lead solder, all I can find is lead free, it does not flow or hold as well as lead tin.

Ron Moore

eBay does pretty well with it. Search for solder and stained glass. The suppliers for stained glass cameing have some great choices for a few great ratios. You will just need your own flux. The solder is not cored. I have had good luck with Avril 63/37. Avril has 50/50 and 60/40 too.

Brownells