Anyone had this happen?
 

Last night, shooting skeet with my 28 Ga. Repro; with regular shooting glasses on, where this old guy can't see up close; my gun's ejectors were sticking out so much the gun wouldn't close, hmmm; and I would have to push them in a bit to get the gun shut.
Well, a few shots later, and I saw the little dolls-head replacement metal piece was sticking up & out, so I put it in my pocket. Then, the ejectors were loose, in that they would come completely out of the gun if I didn't stop them.
So, today.....I have to put on a pair of glasses and see if the screw is ruined.
At first, I thought it sheared off, but it didn't, and sticks out a bit.

Anyone know where I can get a screw for the dolls-head for a 28 Gauge Repro?
:banghead:
Sam Ogle, Lincoln, NE

Sam
The ejector problem you are having seems to be common in the repro 28's the best fix is to install a retainer screw in the recoil lugs and modify the ejectors to retain like an extractor. The small retainer plate will eventually tear out the small screw.

You may have a bit more of a problem than what is immediately obvious.
If the screw backs out and the plate starts to pop out of place you need to check the edges of the tapered slot cut into the doll's head that accomodates the stop plate. The stop plate is hardened but the edges of the slot on the doll's head, not so much. Those edges are critical to the fit of the stop plate and can bend over, or out.

I just saw Brad's comment and his remedy is probably the best permanent remedy possible.

Brad, the stop screw you recommend will take considerable pounding from the ejector rods over time so it needs to be hardened to resist being damaged. The section of the screw that accepts the pounding would necessarily need to be cut below the threads to avoid damage to the thread - 'free shank' in other words... right?

Dean - those threads would definitely need to be cut down below the minor diameter.

I am surprised to learn that this is a common problem with the Reproductions. (Thanks Brad)

All of the dovetail clearances between plate and bbl are nice and tight on all of mine..having said that, I do ensure that the retaining screw is adequately snug whenever I do an annual clean-up following heavy use through the season.

Following an initial cleanup to remove old grease/gunk, rarely, if ever do I tap the stop plate in/out in order to keep the fit nice and tight...maybe I'll check the retaining screw more often.

Sam..you might also clean everything up really well paying particular attention to the internal thread of the plate and see if the screw will freely pass through end for end..if not, you may want to get yourself a tap along with an extra screw or two provided you find them. Wish I could tell you what size but am not near my safe at the moment..maybe Brad can advise?

—

For general guidance - if the plate is ever removed from the dolls head..I would advise paying very meticulous attention when re-installing it to ensure it is wedged in nice and straight before driving it home by tapping very lightly using only brass punches..ideally the punch would have a small radius on the face. I also prefer a small & light brass/copper hammer when doing this sort of thing.

That "feature" is particularly delicate to a degree and susceptible to damage....questionable design for the home hobbyist to work on (which I don't think was Parkers intent), but I likes it!

Dean

We use a hardened stainless steel screw with a radius on the tip. If the dovetail is damaged we fit an oversized stop plate.
The pounding is what deforms the dovetail and loosens the stop plate.

Brad; Would You be willing to work on my gun? And, if so, do you need the whole gun?
"Fixing" the gun so it was an Extractor would be completely acceptable to me, as I just never "kick" shells out anyway.
I was a bit surprised to hear/see this is a problem, but would much prefer to have the gun an extractor than to have it be a "broken gun," even though I have no intentions of ever selling it anyway.

Sam
To install the retainer screw we need the barrels only. To convert to extract only we like the entire gun to be able to test it.

Thanks

Brad

Personally, I would leave it as an ejector gun with Brad's suggested repair. At least that way, it will pop the spent cartridges into your waiting hand.

Will this also occur in 20 ga. repros. and other gauges or is it unique to the 28?

I had the same problem with the
CSMC .410 BARRELS. I called them and
they sent me 2 more plates and screws.
I installed the new one and it lasted
3 shots and broke. Sent the barells to
Bill Schwartz and he installed an oversized
stop plate that he makes out of special
steel. I then called and sent pictures to
CSMC and talked to rep and they cared
less. Have since shot 500 shells no problem

Brad; Thanks to You and to all for your advice and experiences on this: I am shipping the gun today as soon as I verify Brad's shipping address.
Thank God for this wonderful site, where Parker Lovers can get advice.
Pat; I am glad you seem to have found a permanent fix for your .410 barrels.
Sam Ogle

Not a lot of metal in the dolls head of those guns. The corner of the dovetail fails and allows the stop plate to push out. I have seen this on a Meriden built 28g. before.

Brian; after looking at the gun under a pair of magnifying glasses, You are correct.
The little "reinforcing plate" looked undamaged. The "damage" appears to be the corners of the dolls-head itself.
Ah, Well.......I go to work at 5:00am, and when I return this afternoon, I will ship the gun to Batchelder for his fix which sounds logical, and efficient.

Brad; I need a copy of your FFL to ship UPS:
Sam

samogle2001@yahoo.com

I like the idea of installing a massive stop screw in the bottom of the lug, with the stop just shy of where there would be contact between the ejectors and the dovetailed slide. It works with extractor guns, so it should work with ejector guns. It should have been the original design. The little ejector stop on Parkers is a ridiculous attempt at over engineering.

The attached pictures show the repair of the stop. Bill Schwartz made the new stop way thicker, the other is on a 28 ga repro...the thick one is one the set of .410 BARRELS.
The 28 ga may fail, listening to the weeknesss of the thin stop plate experienced by others

Pat
The stop on the 410 is not pretty but it sure looks strong.

Thanks for the pictures: I have sent my 28 to Brad Batchelder for his repairs, and also asked him to make the gun an extractor by putting a screw in as he described.
I realize this takes away from the ultimate value; and will leave an heir tearing hair out, but, as I have said about guns: "If I own it, I shoot it."

A follow up: Brad Batchelder fixed my 28 Ga Repro; and it is as good as new or better.
His work, and his company were first class from the start to the finish.
I HIGHLY recommend him!
Thanks Brad!
Sam Ogle

After years of Parkers and Foxes, I equate the former to a beautiful woman with some underlying issues while the latter is lovely while requiring far less maintenance. Choose your dance partner.

Sam,
If possible could you please post pictures of Brad's repair?
Thank you!!!
Bob Jurewicz

Jack, could you 'please post pictures' of the 'beautiful woman with underlying issues'.

LOL Edgar

Edgar, I will as soon as I return from vacation, in two weeks. Thanks for your interest. She's a beaut! Inside and out!!

Jack

Update: Due to medical matters with a family member, I will unlikely have time to add pics of my CHE 16. With God's grace, this matter will be resolved.