when am i done truoiling my stock?
 

I have different reports on the number of coats. Some say 20 some say 5. How many coats of truoil do y'all usually use.

As many as it takes to get the job done. That simple. Keep working until it looks the way you want.

But is it just the case of getting it darker and darker or thicker and thicker?

I have 10 coats on it so far and it looks good, I just don't know if it is done or not. It is a little glossy for me, but I believe stock conditioner will take care of that and make it more silky looking from what I have read and seen online.

Yes, the stock conditioner will knock it down nicely. Use it lightly and stay away from edges when rubbing it.

The goal in the finish is getting the amount of grain fill that you desire.

When have a stock finished to my satisfaction I always let it set in the sunlight for a week or more. The UV rays will harden the finish and male the finish more durable. If I don't do that I let the gun sit in the gun closet ti cure for a month or more before using it in the field.

I usually put 7-8 coats on letting it dry thoroughly, then I knock the gloss off with 0000 steel wool do this very lightly, and you will take the "shine" off, then use a soft cotton cloth to buff by hand to the gloss you want, Gary

Well, I ended up stopping at 10 coats. I then took some 0000 steel wool to it to take the shine off and remove one run that appeared out of now where on the last coat. Gonna let it dry a week and then hit it with the stock conditioner like the instructions say.

I was comparing it to the DH forearm and the grain fill looks good. Just need to shine it up now with the conditioner I guess.

BTW, it amazes me the weight difference that having the metal removed from the forearm makes vs. having it in.

You may find that the conditioner will not really shine it up much.

What I may recommend you try is with your steel wooled stock as it is, apply another coat of Tru Oil. Then after not giving it much time to sit, wipe it off with a cloth. This will remove the excess and leave a thin coat behind. When it dries, it should leave a nice satin sheen that is usually pretty nice looking.

Bill if you want a nice semi-gloss "glow" you might want to try one final wide down with Formby's semi-gloss Tung oil after the Tru Oil has cured. I have been using a couple coats of Formby's Tung Oil on the last few stocks I have done and am really pleased with the results. Tru Oil and the Tung oil are compatible so there is no problem with the finish sloughing off with use.

I prefer using a wiping cloth made of a synthetic to avoid problems with lint.

I've refinished a lot of rifle stocks. Some take a few coats, some many. Trick is to get the pores filled w/o the finish looking too glossy. I usually use 400 or 500 grit paper to knock the sheen off. I don't like steel wool because it can stick in the pores or pull finish out of the pores. Buff with pumice or cloth.

forearm done
 

Well, I finished up the forearm and put it back together. Its on the left, the forearm to my DH is on the right.

It probably doesn't look original to people who are used to looking at these, but I am happy, it looks good.

Now, when I have a chance I can start on the stock :)

It was actually a lot harder to put the forearm back together.

I didn't realize the spring under the latch had worked itself loose and I couldn't get the middle screw that goes all the way through it to go through. Thought I broke it when all of a sudden I lost all tension in the latch, but when I took it back apart and figured it out it went back together easy.

Tru Oil is very forgiving and it won't get darker and darker. It will only get shinier and shinier. Read Brian's advice carefully. He's got it nailed. If you aren't satisfied, knock it down again GENTLY with your 0000 steel wool and go at it again for another coat. I've found that I can buff these finishes after they are dry (but before they are fully cured) very nicely with a wool flannel rag. Try that, too. Just keep at it until you are satisfied. Your Tru Oil is not contaminating your stock. It is building up on the surface. It dries very quickly, and cures more slowly.

Thin tru oil 50%, 12 coats should do.

Has anyone had problems with the completed finish wearing off. It seems to be an ongoing problem with me. I've used tru-oil applied with a cotton mat. It goes on very thin and I apply approx 15 to 30 coats. Rub out is every 5 to 7 with 4-0 steel wool. I feel I'm not putting it on thick enough to build it up. Your recommendations are welcomed.

I rub it lightly with steel wool everytime. I was told this is necessary to get the multiple layers to bond.

Oil finishes need time to cure between applications. After you have applied the true oil let it set up at least over night, longer in cool temps or high humidity before you rub it out with steel wool otherwise you are pulling the finish out of the pores you are trying to fill. I prefer to build up a slurry by rubbing the oil into the wood with steel wool, let the slurry dry overnight then rub off the slurry with steel wool. If you want to speed up the drying process place a 40 wat light bulb in a drying box with the stock leave one side open to allow air circulation.

Paul,
You don't want to put it on thick. Thinner is better, in my opinion. It's possible your finish coats are not drying sufficiently before re-coating, as mentioned above. Remember, too, that the beauty of this finish is that it is almost infinitely repairable/re-coatable. It was made for gun stocks. It works well. Be patient and press on, my friend.

when am I done tru oiling my stock
 

Can someone explain "steel wool sock"? Sounds very interesting.