Parker disassembly instructions
 

I am looking for instructions on how to completely disassemble my Parker V grade 20ga Does anyone have these instruction. I found this book (gun digest book of firearms assembly/disassembly part v shotguns 2nd edition) that lists Parkers in it and was wondering if it was any good.

Thanks for any input,

Tim

Tim: Look at FAQ on this site!

Depends on how much detail you need, have you looked at the FAQ section off the main www.parkerguns.org web page. Number 34 may fill your need. I suggest you look over others on screws and wood as well.

I have not read the book in question, I hope someone will chime in on that for you.

Mr Gall:
I wonder why you want to take the gun to bits? A 20-bore in good condition is not something that a first-time home hobbyist should be learning on. In oher words, if you have never disassembled a boxlock double before, you should think twice about a Parker 20. Do you have proper turnscrews? Do you understand that screw slots must be cleared before you use them? Do you understand that the sears must be removed (tricky) before the buttstock can be removed?

These are just a few of the considerations in stripping down a Parker. If you want to clean it, then the small fee for a professional strip-and-clean will be more than worth the outlay.

The gun is in poor condition and needs a full restoration. The barrels are so pitted I need to make it into a 28ga most likely using Briley tubes, sleeving is to expensive. I have taken apart other doubles but I am new to Parkers. They all have their own special step by step ways of coming apart and going back together. I am not a trained gunsmith but I do have the proper tools. I also do engraving, so I am planning on giving it the full treatment.

Post Before and After pics here for us so we can follow your efforts.

Take a look at my Albums below...

These do not cover complete 100% teardown, but it is enough to get you most of the way there, or enough to be able to figure the rest out.

If you have any questions, let me know.

If you have the old style top lever mechanism with the flat spring and cam/lever, a common issue there is the bolt retaining screw being stuck. I usually have to end up drilling out about 25% of the ones I have to take apart. Also, the small retaining screw in the water table which is for removing the unhooking slide pin can be pesky. They usually come out, but a small eye glass screw driver is needed.

Taking apart a Parker does not require any super specialized tools other than the proper run of the mill tools for gunsmithing. Just a proper sized pin for taking out the the hammers and springs.

http://www.parkerguns.org/forums/album.php?albumid=307

http://www.parkerguns.org/forums/album.php?albumid=366

http://www.parkerguns.org/forums/album.php?albumid=365

The correct sized turnscrews are a MUST.

don't do it use a Qualified double gunsmith

There is an excellent video on youtube on the breakdown and assembly of a parker receiver.

1920 Parker 12 Gauge Trojan Steel Disassembly Issues
 

Hello Everyone,

Quick question, I have just recently became a proud owner of a Parker Brothers 12 Gauge Trojan Steel Side by Side that was made in the year 1920. (I found out through the Serial Number Register Search). I am having issue with the disassembly though. I am an avid hunter and gun collector and have never had this issue with any of my double barrels. Granted this gun was not taken the best care of and who knows its back story. But from the nicks in the wood to the wearing on the barrel I am sure this shotgun saw a good bit of hunting.

When I remove the forend of the shotgun I can not get the barrel to come off. I have lubed and shot this shotgun and still can not remove it. I am unsure and unaware of what exactly I my be doing wrong or what in the gun I need to focus on to repair the issue. I would prefer to keep this out of the gunsmiths hands and hopefully repair or just correct the issue I am having at home. I am using Lucas Oil to lubricate the gun and Hoppes #9 for internal cleaning. There is movement with the barrels when I have the forend off however not enough to remove or even move them more than a 1/8" inch.

This is a big issue because I feel that I cannot properly identify the grade and model of the Parker, because I cannot see the markings. I know it is nothing fancy but I would love to learn more information about it.

Any insight on the matter is greatly appreciated!

The model is the Trojan. It is the lowest of any gun Parker Bros. made. Next up from there is the Grade-0 (VH), then the Grade-1 (PH), then the Grade-2 (GH) and so on.
Put the forend back on, pull both triggers, take the forend back off then remove the barrels if they will release.
Sounds like, if it’s loose with the forend on you should have it professionally taken care of or continued shooting will only loosen it further that may run into more costly repairs.






.

I did it once. Which means I will only do it once

:eek:

Reply to Dean
 

Dean,

When together the gun is solid, I only meant that when the forend is off and I am trying to remove the barrel it has play like it is wanting to come off but something is holding it in place. Also the model I have is the Trojan.

Thanks,

Barrel removai
 

The first Parker I bought / owned had the same problem. The barrel would not back off the pin. Since it had sat in a closet over 50 years someone here suggested I remove the forearm, dose it with thin oil and park it barrel down. Did that for a week and the barrels slid right off. The center of the water table was filled with solid old grease. Once it softened it came apart.

Which one?

Which one?