Sherman Bell 10ga Reloading recipes in PDF format
 

Attached is a PDF copy of the Sherman Bell 10ga reloading recipes that came to me as an Excel file. I converted the file to PDF for those who can't open an Excel file.

Thank you Pete for posting this. I guess the original compiler didn't like Federal or Winchester hulls!...of which I have about a thousand of...

I think maybe we could make Pete's post a sticky or at least the PDF file.

Don, Scroll or click down there's a total of 3 pages, includes Win. & Fed. hulls.

Thanks...I'm an idiot..

TTT.

This is great info. Is there one like this for 12 ga. ??

Mike

The best low pressure manual for a 12 gauge is the IMR Powder manual. www.imrpowder.com there are many low pressure loads with 7625, PB, 4756 & 800X.

Harry

Thanks Harry,

I need to get up to speed on using smokeless.
I have an old hand roll crimper on the way and want to
try my hand at making some paper roll crimp shells.

Mike,

It is work though very rewarding to have short rolled crimp shells. I have the old tools for 10 and 12 gauge. I keep hulls from .410 to 10 gauge with me so if I see an antique shop and find these old tools I will know what gauge I'm dealing with. There was a 16 gauge roll crimper on ebay a few months ago that I was out bid on. I have been finding these tools around here for about $10 to $15. Just not a 16 gauge or smaller.

Harry

What should I be looking for when it comes to
purchasing these old roll hand crimper's?
Is there one brand over another that is more sought after?
The one's that have the brass knob and rod as apart of the unit,
is that used for de-capping?

Thanks for any info. you can pass this way.

Mike :-))

Mike,

If you find one buy it. I am not sophisticated enough to know the difference.

Harry

Pete, when you received Sherman's load data in Excel, were there any footnotes in regards to his use of asterisks, italics and boldface? I have the 2 back issues of the DGJ with his articles, but cannot find anything that would clue me in on his asterisks, etc.

Let's see if we can revive this thread! Has anyone tried Mr. Bell's loads? He really was adamant about pointing out the differences between the various hulls. Remington has a handful, as does Winchester. Interior construction of these different shells played a big part in ultimate load performance. I just bought a Baker hammer gun and am looking forward to putting my old 10 gauge loading tools to good use. Cheers!

Mark,

I load the Federal hull cut down to 2 7/8" with SP 10 wad with Circle Fly 16 gauge over powder cards and cushion wads, WW 209 primers and IMR 7625 for 1 1/8 oz loads and IMR 4756 for 1 1/4 oz loads. I chose the Federal hull because I could find them. I am conscious of the paper base wad and check my barrels after each shot.

Harry

I use the same loads Harry mentioned. Shot them both days at Hausmann's in my EH. They recoil like a 12 ga,crush clays like an 8ga. At the "Tower" station they were good enough to break 6 high targets in a row, and could reach across the pond to catch the run away right to left.:)

nice gun but the crimps are really good on those shell espically the green roll crimp very nice........ charlie

Mark,

I have notes pages in pdf format but they are too large to load. PM me with your email and I'll send them to you.

Mark

Harry, have you had problems with basewads actually coming loose from the hull? I would imagine that black powder is rough on the shells, but not smokeless. One of the hard basewads would make a dangerous obstruction.

Mark,

I have never had a base wad detach. I'm just aware that one might. As far as the astricks and bold type in the PDF, it is my recollection that those were the loads mentioned in Sherman Bell's articles.

Harry

those base wads will come loose and lodge in the barrel...ive had several come loose espically in the 8 ga and 10 ga ...and these were from differant brands of shells and i was shooting smokless powder...best to lokk down the bore after each shot.... charlie

That is good advice, Charlie. I always look for daylight before I stick a shell in any of my guns. Thanks for pitching in with info, everybody. The Baker hasn't arrived yet and I am anxious to try loading some shells for it. It will be my first venture into shotshell loading. Cheers!

you will like reloading...its like looking at old guns it gets into the blood stream... charlie

Mark,

Just a heads up to wiegh the powder charge before you fill the other hopper with shot. I have not found a bushing yet that throws the charge writen in the manuals. It's a lot easier to chanbe bushings without having to deal with the shot.

Harry

Harry, my outfit is not very sophisticated! I found a near-mint Lee hand tool for the 2-7/8" shell and will be using my new Hornady Lock and Load powder dispenser. The Hornady measure is a Godsend for all of my rifle loading. I have dippers for shot, also. Finally, I have a repaired 'roller' that does a swell job on paper and plastic hulls, should I decide to use a rolled crimp. It delivers a nice rounded roll-over. I have discovered with the pre-determined charge rotors for my RCBS Little Dandy that they fall short of their assigned charges of Unique by almost 1/2 grain. I did a lot of averaging and made notes about each rotor. I suppose volume charging is fine with less-than-maximum charges.

Federal shells have a fiber base wad - these are the ones that can come loose and lodge in your barrel. Rem and Win don't have the fiber base wad [ to the best of my knowledge ] . There is no problem with them.
PSB - Precision Reloading's buffer material
BP - Ballistic Products buffer material
FBS - felt Blue Streak wad
NC - nitro card wad
MR - Mylat wrapper
x10x - over powder wad from Ballistic Products

notes on loads #18,68,and 69 - wad combo has a 10ga 1/4" wad and a 12ga 1/4" wad
#37 - 16 or 20ga card may be used ILO 24ga wad
hope this helps - Paul

This is only what I do - any of these loads with plastic wads can be used with paper wads and I believe the pressures would be lower and safe. I go up 10% with the powder charge when substituting fiber wads for plastic. Use your own judgment. Paul

DID SHERMAN BELL DO THE SAME FOR 12 GA HEAVY SHOT CHARGE / LOW PRESSURE?
 

I want to load some 1 3/8 oz loads for a 12 gauge that I will also use in a 10 gauge with gaugemates (so I only have to load up one gauge that can be used in both).

But I want a heavier load with low pressure, much as the 1 3/8 oz and 1 1/2 oz loads Bell has for 10 gauge that are in the 8000 psi or less range.

Thanks.

There is only one powder I know of that will deliver such results, Hodgdon Longshot. ex. below.

12ga, Federal Gold Medal Hull, Lead Shot 1 3/8 oz. Longshot 27.3gr Rem. 209P Primer, Rem. R12H Wad 7,700 PSI, 1185fps

Harry, don't forget the 700X in 7/8oz loads. Don't like 4756 in the winter - punk loads for me. paul

i really dont have enough cold weather to judge what powder is good and not in cold weather so fellows what powder is the best for these low preesure loads in 10 ga... charlie

I use Clays for my one ounce loads. The coldest for me would be 24 degrees or so. Is that cold enough to affect certain types of powder? My hands won't tolerate anything beyond that temperature, so it may be a moot point for me. Cheers!

The 700X works in Michigan winters - at times below zero. Paul

Jent:
"Verrry Interrresting" on the loose wads.... If you'd be so kind, what type of load do you use with this case, and about hot many reloads do you get before a wad is likely to come loose?

I assume you are firing these cartridges in a Parker double, and not a semi-auto or pump.

I use Federal plastic cases myself and have not noticed this problem.

Best, Kensal

The wad is never "likely" to come loose. It will come loose when you least expect it. It isn't something that happens often. Most hulls will never lose a base wad before being unloadable. Look down that barrel.

Jent, This is what I use on those bothersome Remington 10ga hulls with loose primers. After using it the first time on new hulls, primers still hold tight after several reloads. I use Win 209 primers. HTH, Robert.
Here is one place that sells them.
http://www.ballisticproducts.com/Pri...tinfo/2301816/

I've never had the problem with primers in the Remington hull - but that said, I live a couple of miles from Williams - have to ask about the tool next time I stop in. Didn't know they made one and I'm in there about twice a month and learn about it here. Paul

Jent, Mark, et al:
While I am not denying that base wads from Federal 10-bore cases could come loose, I am a bit baffled as to how they could migrate halfway down the barrel. Please understand that I am NOT a physicist nor an explosives engineer, but these questions persist in my mind:

1) When gunpowder ignites it creates a gas pressure that is equal in all directions. This is physics.

2) As the wad column and shot move forward, it allows the building gas pressure to move this ejecta down the barrel and out the muzzle.

3) As the ejecta travels within the barrel, there is STILL gas pressure pushing backward against the base wad/cartridge head. When the shot and wads leave the muzzle, this pressure drops to zero.

4) In this whole process, I cannot think of any force induced by firing the cartridge that would allow the basewad to move FORWARD and down the barrel.

In posing these thoughts, I'm just trying to understand why this phenomenon apparently happens. NOT that it doesn't happen. I know that Tom Armbrust posts here occasionally, so he may have an expert's explanation as to why this apparent redefinition of physics takes place. Or point out what force moves the base wad forward.

Best. Kensal