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-   -   stuborn screws (https://parkerguns.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10526)

Rick Losey 05-18-2013 12:53 PM

stuborn screws
 
I wish I could remember where I read this tip - but it came in handy.

I was trying to remove a screw that did not want to budge, and there was no way I was gong to bugger up the slot on this one.

But I remembered a gunsmithing article (may have been in Shoooting Sportsman but i am not sure) that had instructions on how to remove a stuck screw

NOW - for this method - you need to absolutely remember three things


UNPLUG YOUR DRILL PRESS

FIT THE SLOTTED BIT TO THE SCREW HEAD EXACTLY

UNPLUG YOUR DRILL PRESS

so - I took a bit from my Brownells set and ground the width and length to a perfect fit to the screw slot.

then, after padding the action with leather I placed it firmly in the drill press vice making sure the screw head was parallel with the table. Then - locking the bit in the collet, I lowered the bit and moved the vice until the slotted bit was lined up and was fully in the screw slot.

now - I locked the vertical so that the bit could not ride out of the slot and anchored the vice so that it could not move.

did I mention - unplug the drill press --:)

now - using the collet as a screw driver handle - slowly but firmly rotate the bit.

I was amazed on how smoothly the screw came loose after I could not even budge it by hand.

wayne goerres 05-18-2013 01:59 PM

Nice trick I will have to remember this one.

Angel Cruz 05-18-2013 03:13 PM

nice trick
 
How much for a drill press???..:rotf:

Fred Preston 05-18-2013 03:33 PM

Oscar Gaddy used and recommended that technique.

charlie cleveland 05-18-2013 04:06 PM

sounds like you meant to get that screw come hale or high water...charlie

Rick Losey 05-18-2013 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Angel Cruz (Post 106609)
How much for a drill press???..:rotf:

Well Angel- mine is a 1930's vintage cast iron Craftsman, a big one, about 25 years ago I paid some old guy who was retiring to Florida $75 for it, I had to take it apart there and was loading it up when he came out and held out a morticing attachment and asked if I had any use for it :rolleyes:- and tossed it in as part of the deal.

And Charlie - yes - I had two important goals - get it out of where it had likely been sitting for nearly140 years and don't break it.

John Campbell 05-18-2013 07:03 PM

Perhaps it is not necessary to say, but it usually pays to prep the screw/threads with Kroil for a few days prior to going major in this way.

edgarspencer 05-18-2013 07:39 PM

I've been reviving, rehabbing, rebuilding and restoring antique machinery for the better part of 60 years. This is standard practice. Often times, a good tap with a ball peen hammer on the shank of the screwdriver is enuf of a shock to break them loose too.

Daryl Corona 05-19-2013 08:31 AM

I agree with Mr. Spencer on that technique for removing stubborn screws without the use of a drill press and I have found a solution of acetone/automatic transmission fluid in a 50/50 mixture is the absolute best penetrant for just about any rusted or gunked up screw.

edgarspencer 05-19-2013 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daryl Corona (Post 106641)
I agree with Mr. Spencer on that technique for removing stubborn screws without the use of a drill press and I have found a solution of acetone/automatic transmission fluid in a 50/50 mixture is the absolute best penetrant for just about any rusted or gunked up screw.

I used to think PB Blaster was the best until I read about the Acetone/ATF mixture a few years ago. I tried it and was very surprised how well it works. You have to keep the mixture in a sealed container, to prevent evaporation.

charlie cleveland 05-19-2013 10:08 AM

old burnt motor oil and gas mixed 50-50 work pretty good too...charlie

Richard Flanders 05-19-2013 11:22 AM

I like the acetone/ATF idea. Make up a good sealable jar full and put the entire receiver in for a few days and let it do it's stuff. I use wide mouthed Pnut butter jars for that kind of stuff.

charlie cleveland 05-19-2013 06:00 PM

good idea there richard on the wide mouth peanut butter jars... charlie

Eric Eis 05-19-2013 06:26 PM

Guys just remember if you are using acetone "No open flame" :shock: or even possible open flame. Ie do this outside.:rolleyes:

David Hamilton 05-29-2013 09:32 PM

Eric, We all live a bit dangerously some of the time. I'm still kicking after all these years, for no good reason! David

Dean Romig 05-29-2013 09:37 PM

Okay... ATF... but that's just a generic term. Is it FLM or is it Dexron II or Dexron III or even one of the later ones? Possibly one of the synthetic ATF's???

Daryl Corona 05-29-2013 09:54 PM

It does'nt matter Dean, any ATF will do. I use it to free up rusted, greased encrusted screws/bolts and motor bearings. Works better than any commercial product I've ever used.

John Campbell 05-30-2013 08:17 AM

I have tried these ATF/Acetone concoctions, and find them unsatisfactory for typically dried oil/gummed up gun parts.

While this may be a fun experiment in alchemy, this stuff does NOT work as well as immersing gummed up gun bits in a full bath of lacquer thinner for a few days. Lubrication is okay. But dissolution/breakdown of old goo is really what you are after.

rufus thames 06-11-2013 05:31 PM

after taping & lubricants
 
Try leaving in hot sunshine for a few hours. An old remedy.
My two cents!

Rick Losey 06-11-2013 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rufus thames (Post 108133)
Try leaving in hot sunshine for a few hours. An old remedy.
My two cents!

around here that would have to be over a few days - 15 minutes at a time :rotf:

rufus thames 06-12-2013 12:23 AM

Sorry Rick
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick Losey (Post 108137)
around here that would have to be over a few days - 15 minutes at a time :rotf:

Just a thought in your case
Dont boil but heat lub to approx. 200 to 250 degrees for 45 minutes.
With frozen part submerged.
Again just a thought.
Please excuse me if you dont agree.
Thanks Rufus


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