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stuborn screws
I wish I could remember where I read this tip - but it came in handy.
I was trying to remove a screw that did not want to budge, and there was no way I was gong to bugger up the slot on this one. But I remembered a gunsmithing article (may have been in Shoooting Sportsman but i am not sure) that had instructions on how to remove a stuck screw NOW - for this method - you need to absolutely remember three things UNPLUG YOUR DRILL PRESS FIT THE SLOTTED BIT TO THE SCREW HEAD EXACTLY UNPLUG YOUR DRILL PRESS so - I took a bit from my Brownells set and ground the width and length to a perfect fit to the screw slot. then, after padding the action with leather I placed it firmly in the drill press vice making sure the screw head was parallel with the table. Then - locking the bit in the collet, I lowered the bit and moved the vice until the slotted bit was lined up and was fully in the screw slot. now - I locked the vertical so that the bit could not ride out of the slot and anchored the vice so that it could not move. did I mention - unplug the drill press --:) now - using the collet as a screw driver handle - slowly but firmly rotate the bit. I was amazed on how smoothly the screw came loose after I could not even budge it by hand. |
Nice trick I will have to remember this one.
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nice trick
How much for a drill press???..:rotf:
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Oscar Gaddy used and recommended that technique.
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sounds like you meant to get that screw come hale or high water...charlie
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And Charlie - yes - I had two important goals - get it out of where it had likely been sitting for nearly140 years and don't break it. |
Perhaps it is not necessary to say, but it usually pays to prep the screw/threads with Kroil for a few days prior to going major in this way.
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I've been reviving, rehabbing, rebuilding and restoring antique machinery for the better part of 60 years. This is standard practice. Often times, a good tap with a ball peen hammer on the shank of the screwdriver is enuf of a shock to break them loose too.
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I agree with Mr. Spencer on that technique for removing stubborn screws without the use of a drill press and I have found a solution of acetone/automatic transmission fluid in a 50/50 mixture is the absolute best penetrant for just about any rusted or gunked up screw.
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old burnt motor oil and gas mixed 50-50 work pretty good too...charlie
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I like the acetone/ATF idea. Make up a good sealable jar full and put the entire receiver in for a few days and let it do it's stuff. I use wide mouthed Pnut butter jars for that kind of stuff.
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good idea there richard on the wide mouth peanut butter jars... charlie
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Guys just remember if you are using acetone "No open flame" :shock: or even possible open flame. Ie do this outside.:rolleyes:
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Eric, We all live a bit dangerously some of the time. I'm still kicking after all these years, for no good reason! David
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Okay... ATF... but that's just a generic term. Is it FLM or is it Dexron II or Dexron III or even one of the later ones? Possibly one of the synthetic ATF's???
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It does'nt matter Dean, any ATF will do. I use it to free up rusted, greased encrusted screws/bolts and motor bearings. Works better than any commercial product I've ever used.
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I have tried these ATF/Acetone concoctions, and find them unsatisfactory for typically dried oil/gummed up gun parts.
While this may be a fun experiment in alchemy, this stuff does NOT work as well as immersing gummed up gun bits in a full bath of lacquer thinner for a few days. Lubrication is okay. But dissolution/breakdown of old goo is really what you are after. |
after taping & lubricants
Try leaving in hot sunshine for a few hours. An old remedy.
My two cents! |
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Sorry Rick
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Dont boil but heat lub to approx. 200 to 250 degrees for 45 minutes. With frozen part submerged. Again just a thought. Please excuse me if you dont agree. Thanks Rufus |
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