Trojan restoration questions
 

Guys -

I recently purchased my second SXS, a 12 ga. Trojan. I was looking for a good project/shooter and I think this one will fit the bill. Ultimately, I would like to use this shotgun for ducks and dove a couple of times a year.
This particular shotgun was made in 1930 and has 30" barrels, F/F. The barrels have light pitting on the outside and the right bore has some very light pitting. The barrels have been reblued (without the pitting removed) and the stocks has been refinished (not a great job). Because of the work already performed, I think the main value of the gun is as a shooter that can be used and enjoyed.
My first questions concern the barrels. Does anyone have any suggestions for someone that can evaluate the barrels for safety and possibly polish the right bore? I'm considering opening the chokes to IC/Mod to make it a little more appropriate for Texas doves, too.
My next set of questions concernt he stock. I think I could likely benefit from a lengthened LOP and have been checking out recoil pads. Specifically, I have been looking at the period correct Galazan pads. Dumb question #1: is there a pad that can be installed without altering the stock? Since there is not a lot of collector value there, it would not be the end of the world if I had to cut it, but I would prefer to leave it alone. Also, is there a particular period correct pad that fits more closely than others? I am trying to minimize grinding.
I don't have that much in this shotgun and don't mind investing some more money in order to have a fun shooter. My first priority is to have something that is safe to shoot followed by comfort.
Lastly, I appreciate any input. There is a ton of knowledge on this site and I am always impressed in the respectful and articulate way it is dispensed. Thanks - Kyle

Well the Galazan pad is a good choice ,I've used ton's of them on project's...but you will have to grind it ,and maybe heat it with hot water to form to the curve of your butt (if it has a curve )...but no worries on the grinding ,when it's fitted and screwed to the wood just tape up the the first two or three inches or so and use a good sanding block with coarse paper like 100 grit and start working down to 400 (100,150 ,220 ,400) buff it out with 0000 wool, rub a little tru-oil in,let dry and your all set !

I mount my belt sander in my vise at the proper working angle and lock it in the "on" position and go at it. It is surprising how nicely you can shape a pad to your stock using this method. Go easy and slow and don't put too much force into it and you will achieve a very nice result.

Does the stock have the original curved buttplate on it now? You can fit a recoil pad to that, but it would have to be a curved one, or one that is pliable enough to conform to the curve of the stock. Not all pads will bend very well or at all.

Most recoil pads that are hard backed require the wood to be cut and sanded flat.

Thanks for the responses.

Yes, it still has the original, slightly curved butt. I've been looking at pads on the Connecticut Shotgun Manufacturing site. A lot of the pads seem to have the hard plastic backing that would require cutting. Based on Chris' suggestion I may just stick with the Galazan English Recoil Pad and heat it in hot water before installing. B. Dudley, do you know of any pads that have the correct curve? Feel free to throw out any other suggestions or ideas for a recoil pad.
I'm assuming that having the barrels examined and polished should be pretty straight forward. Any suggestions on a gunsmith that would take that on? I've considered havin the action tightened, too.
Thanks again for all of your great input.

I have a few aftermarket pads in my box of pads that are curved. They are marked "Supreme". Not sure who made them. They are a brownish red colored ventillated pad. I know some original browning pads were curved.

I fitted up one of the Galazan Reproduction Silvers pads and I think that they were kind of flexible. Most Pachmyer pads are too hard to contour to the curved butt. You could always also use a slip on pad too. Galazan and Pachmyer offer some very attractive slip on leather pads.

Next question: what is the preferred method for repairing deep knicks or small gouges in the stock. This stock has some small, pebble-sized gouges located at the base of the stock against the buttplate. Nothing too major, but they are on the edge of the stock. Sawdust and epoxy or some other filler? To clarify, this is missing wood and not a dent that looks like it could be raised. Thanks for your help - Kyle

If the grain of wood is not broken in the dent, it can usually be raised up (at least most of the way) by steaming. If is is cut or gouged, then the only way is to sand it out, or leave it be. Depending on the overall finish of the gun, leaving marks like this are nice because it shows the age and use of the gun. Even if refinished.

Using fillers and such usually does not give great results unless the damage is very small.

Here is one way you can fit a recoil pad to a curved stock. I've used it to fit a KickEzz pad to my GH. I haven't had luck heating a pad to the proper shape so that there wouldn't be any gaps when mounted. Basically what you are doing is putting a screw in the middle of the pad and using the screw to draw the pad to the stock.

Here is the link to the tool: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/143...hole-punch-1-4. I've also heard you can make the tool out of a brass rifle case of the correct diameter you need for the hole. Punch out the primer.

This tool is normally used to punch out a hole in the recoil pad for easy access to the stock draw bolt without having to remove the recoil pad.

Locate the center of the pad and use the tool to core out the rubber down to the hard base. The rubber will be in the tool when you remove it from the pad so use a small rod to take out the cored rubber and save it. Drill a hole in the hard base, the diameter of the screw you are using. Mount the recoil pad to the stock. Take the plug and cut it to the proper length so it's flush with the pad.

This would work with a solid rubber pad such as a Silvers or other similar pads. You've got the 2 big plugs anyway for the Silvers, what's one small plug in the middle going to matter? I don't know how this would look with the ventilated type of pads, the core would be smaller but would probably work too.

From experience, the Galazan solid red pads with the big plugs always break when trying to mate to a curved butt, due to the internal big hole that is in the red rubber as well as the same hole in the hard black plastic. If it does not break, it separates. You will need to go with the Silvers or a red Pachmayr pad for a curved stock butt, and then only if it is slightly curved. I snapped two of them in a row just bending them slightly. Just my experience.