Discuss Patina. Precisely - ethics of Patina.
 

This is a 12ga VH - 1 1/2 frame, 30" barrels. I purchased it at an estate auction about 10 years ago and, while it is not the prettiest, it is probably the most unaltered Parker or elsie I've bought. Chambers, chokes are original. Not a single screw is buggered. No pits. Just worn checkering, marks of use and a chip in the toe.

Even with its heavy use it is a seemingly well cared for working gun, and there is not a single alteration other than, and then only perhaps, a coat of lacquer applied to the stock a long time ago.

The barrel blueing is only worn on either side of the barrel - it's actually much better than my pictures allow. BUT, the receiver has attained a dark/speckled patina.

What makes a gun take on this "color" when others silver with use? Would you take bronze wool to it? Have a professional 'smith clean it?

I am just looking for thoughts and debate during this spring (cabin fever) - I don't plan on ever doing anything to this gun - other than killing a turkey with it in about 3 weeks. :cool:

http://www.waterdogguideservice.com/.../Parker121.jpg

http://www.waterdogguideservice.com/.../Parker122.jpg

http://www.waterdogguideservice.com/.../Parker123.jpg

I would use a light hand with Flitz on the barrels and frame to remove easy oxidation and get a little shine to it, then wax and leave it alone.
I would clean the stock, frankly it looks dirty to me unless its the photo, and then put a top coat or two of thin hand rubbed finish, then leave it at that.

I would not polish the frame down to a silver surface.

My theory is that frames that are used and stand hand carry/rubbing, and normal cleaning after, get silver framed, whereas those that are put away in closets, basements, etc,and not used much, get exposed to humidity and get brown framed.

Judging from the condition of the rest of the gun that may be the original stock finish.

I think I remember Austin once suggesting the freckling on the frame may be something akin to old mildew or some kind on organic matter which may have held moisture and gone to a rust-like scale.

I agree with Bruce regarding his suggestion of the use of Flitz to clean it up a bit.

Gentlemen - thank you.

Now, as far as the stock - sure it's dirty, but I think the picture is misleading. Much of it is old varnish (lacquer, whatever) - original or not? I am not skilled enough to say.

As far as flitz, I have never used it on a gun. I have used to polish heavy pitting out of SS that has been exposed to salt air and a marine environment. It is very good at that. While I hear y'all suggest it for cleaning up guns such as this - I have also been told it is potentially dangerous and can remove any remaining case coloring, etc. CC is obviously not an issue with this gun but does it have potential to damage the metal?

Say I were to use it - do you have any recommendations on how to use flitz?

Just use a light hand, like you were using silver polish on sterling silver ware or polishing compound on a car finish to remove a scratch. I've used it on my guns to clean up oxidation . It will remove case colors when you bear down hard enough and will not otherwise harm guns. Its made for cleaning up guns.

This seems to work for inferior shotguns :rolleyes:
http://www.lcsmith.org/faq/cleangun2.html

"do you have any recommendations on how to use flitz?"
Cautiously as Bro Bruce said

Yes, I've used Meguirs Fine Cut Cleaner, worked well also. I used to use Mylands High Friction Finish, which is a French polish, but I found that it dried too quickly and became streaky,and I would have to re do it so I started using Formby's Tung Oil finish and have done better.

Bunch of waxes work, Johnson's Carnaba, Meguirs, Renaissance, I'm using Bri Wax. Any of that stuff.

The L.C. Smith suggestions are wonderful, except: Some of those Scotch Brite pads will scratch a chrome bumper. I don't know which is which, there are several varieties. I'm scared of them after scratching a bumper on a car with real chrome.

Before doing anything to clean the frame I would recommend carefully removing the stock in order to get right to the edges without affecting the wood or remaining finish.

The RED Scotch Brite pads will scratch chrome. Don't ask me how I know !:crying::cuss::banghead: