Case Colors
 

Some time back Bruce Day suggested an option is to do bone charcoal case colors on a Repro. Last year I sent my 20g to Turnbull and I am extremely pleased with the result. (I'm sure Bachelder would have done a fine job also). I am seriously considering sending them my 28g Repro. and even an unfired BHE. I'm fully aware of the POSSIBILITY of not recovering my full investment in these guns but the pleasure of seeing them and using them is worth it to me. My question is this: Since the metallurgy is different in them has anyone used a Repro enough after bone charcoal restoration of the metal to know if the bone charcoal cc holds up as well as the bone charcoal cc on original Parkers?

Any pictures of the 20?

I'm having my 12 gauge reproduction redone I'm curious how it turned out.

Kirk: I'll post some.

Turnbull cc on repro.

Gun has been hunted with one season since new cc.

John Gillette of Classic Guns, Inc. re-casecolored this 12-ga. Parker Reproduction Sporting Clays Classic using the bone charcoal method 6 or 7 years ago. Gillette applied a thinned down coat of Galazan's Case Color Lacquer before returning the gun. These pics were recently taken and the gun has been used a quite a bit since being recolored. It would not be a stretch to say that bone charcoal colors will hold up much better than those colors that were originally applied on Parker Repros.

Someone may correct me if I'm wrong but the bone charcoal color case-hardening process actually creates a molecular bonding of the carbon molecules that produce the color to the steel, whereas the Parker Reproduction colors are more of a staining process which time and use has proven to easily flake off or wear off quickly.






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Repros were not actually case hardened originally. But instead stained with something to look like case colors. That is why they wear off so easily.

As this thread represents, the frames take true case colors very well. I have had a numner of reapro frames case colored by turnbull and they all came out great. Just as good as original parkers.

I can not believe how timely this thread is. I can barely stand looking at my 28ga repro, but I intend to go all the way, having the comb, and fore end reshaped more like Meriden than Remington. It will then be finished with a proper linseed oil finish.

How then will you eliminate the "PARKER" on the underside of the frame?
Do you intend to have "Parker Bros." engraved in the vacant banner spaces on the sides of the frame?
What about the lack of mullering on the borders of the checkering?
What about the roll stamp that is lacking on the top rib?

I'm sorry... I couldn't help myself Edgar.





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