Old Parker - New User
 

Hello all,

I recently found an old Parker in the attic I believe was my grandfathers. It's a 12 gauge with 1 1/2 frame and vulcan steel barrel. From the stampings my best guess it's a grade 0 manufactured in 1927.

It's not in good condition but I did fire it last week (skeet loads) with no problems. I can't remove the barrels from the stock and have been told remove the roll pin. (I don't believe this is correct). The outside of the barrels have some pitting and the butt plate is missing.

I'd like opinions on whether I should invest any money into fixing it.

Thanks,

Glenn

Looks like a good Parker. Yes, I would have it "fixed". From these pictures I don't see anything that would cost all that much to make it right; around $300 maybe. Blue the barrels and trigger guard would fix most of what I can see. I would probably leave the rest alone. But that is all from the pictures, you would know better with gun in hand.

Removal of the pin is not a good idea!!

What happens when you take the forend off? Since it was shot I assume the action feels free when you load it? Have you oiled it with a good light gun oil?

How are the bores, are the pitted or mirror?

Thanks Robin!

I've heard restoring antiques takes away from the value but the pitting on the barrels is just plain ugly. The stock and fore end finishes are ok while the usual wear and scratches seem to add some character. The action is good and the bores are in excellent shape. When I remove the fore end all I can do is cock the gun. The barrels will not separate from the frame.

Are you or would you recommend a restorer?

I think having the rust removed and the blue redone will enhance the value on your gun.

I have had work done by Brad Bachelder and have been very pleased.

Brad Bachelder
1229 Michigan Street
North East
Grand Rapids, MI
49503-2001

(616) 459-3636

and another prominent Parker restoration name is
Larry DelGrego & Sons
1757 Barringer Road
Ilion, New York 13357

Phone: 315-894-8754 and 315-895-7395

I have never had them do work for me but the Parker community has a very high opinion of their work. They probably have worked on more Parkers than any other establishment.

There are others but these two are names that come to mind that I have no problem giving you pointers to.

What state are you in, maybe someone here could give you a recommendation to someone near you?

It would also be a good idea to give the barrel length and serial number so we could look it up and see if it is listed in the serialization book. This could give clues as to how original the gun is now as compared to when it left the factory. If it were my Grandads Parker I would have that gun restored and then use it. Unless it was owned by someone famous it will not have great collector value. I agree with Robin that it will increase in value if it is restored.

I'm in Ohio. Haven't filled out my member info yet. Thanks for the info Robin.

Hi Mike. Here's all the spec's I could find. Thanks for your input.

barrel length 28"

serial number 223054 (multiple places on barrel, frame and stock)

stampings on barrel flat
- HTA (HT over the A)
- V (in a circle)
- 3" (3 with 11 in superscript)
- "OVERLOAD
PARKERBROS
PROVED"

stampings on barrel lug
- 12
- 1 1/2

stampings on barrell rib
PARKER BROS MAKERS MERIDEN CT USA VULCAN STEEL

Glenn,

I suggest you go to the main page at www.parkerguns.org and on the left side there are links, click on "Technical Information" then "Parker Identification" and you will learn a lot of the basics of the meaning of Parker stamp codes & general Parker ID. Take a look at the "Grades" and "FAQ" too, lots to learn there for the new to Parker guy.

Glenn,

I don't see that anyone answered your question.

"I can't remove the barrels from the stock and have been told remove the roll pin. (I don't believe this is correct)."

"When I remove the fore end all I can do is cock the gun. The barrels will not separate from the frame."


You are correct to not remove the roll pin screw. Most of the butchered roll pin screws were done that way because the barrels would not come off and they could not figure out what to do, so most times they unsuccessfully tried to remove the roll pin, which is usually difficult or nearly impossible to do.

If it is a non ejector gun, determined by not having a split in the shell lifter, just put 2 snap caps or two spent hulls in the chambers, close it, drop both hammers by firing them, remove the forend, and the barrels should come right off. Let us know if that works for you. It usually does.

Try 0000 steel wool and oil and work on the rusty barrels or better yet get what's called a Frontier pad and work on the rust. But it did look pretty bad so there are probably lots of pits under there.

According to the Serialization Book your gun left the factory with 28" bbls and a pistol grip stock. That means your gun has those very important, original configurations. The 3-11 is the unstruck bbl weight. The V is the grade. The 1 1/2 on the lug is the frame size. It's a nice Parker that looks like it needs some cosmetic work. Join the PGCA and send off for a research letter. It might tell you your Grandad ordered the gun. Keep us posted.