Looking for feedback (Color Case)
 

We are hoping that some of the members have lifters with surviving colors. We based this specific process and formula for this restoration on available pictures and example guns that we have seen over the years. Any input or comparison photos would be greatly appreciated.

Brad

Brad,Very nice.I like the muted colors.

Nice colors but they don't look like the colors on my Parkers

Ditto Eric's comment.

Lifter Top Action Case Color
 

The best place to look for original color is under the hammer on a lock, on the back of the frame where it contacts the stock, in the lock recesses in the frame and in the floor plate cut. Color sometimes survives on the back of the fore end latch and both sides of the forend iron.
These colors are difficult to photograph especially with digital cameras. Any stray tungsten light will redden them. Outdoor light under a cloudy sky is best ( Kodak called it Cloudy Bright). A reproducable color standard should be in the frame on at least a few pictures to check.
White mineral oil seems to revive color a little, and add a little uniformity to the surface.

Best, Austin

Brad,Are you able to achieve more of a straw color to go with the blue hue's?

Brad, I applaud your efforts and I think you are getting close.

Since you asked, and I would not have said anything unless you asked, the frames you have done that I looked at, Jay Shachter's, the color was too "heavy". It was like a paint coating, whereas real Parker case colors were thin, even when new, and like they are translucent. If you can get a thinner straw and light blue, translucent, I think you are there.

Here are a couple high condition, original guns. The hammerless one is mine, the hammer one belongs to a friend. The photos were taken outside same day, same camera, same conditions and with liberal spray of Puglisi perfume.

Best regards.

A few examples

Thanks for the replies, what we did is take known processes a major step forward. We have learned that we can controll colors, intensity, depth, hues and patterns by regulating the variables. Temperature, oxygen, carbon, inert composits, viscosity of quench, etc. in our formulas we adjust twenty different ratios to achieve various results. The Parker magenta and purple are the hardest to achieve and the least seen, due to the fact that they wear off first with handling. Light blue, straw and burnt umber are relatively easy.
We have identified at least three different phases in the lineage of parker colors. The cyanide colors are a different story. The early guns looked substantially different than more current ones. You can't compare a lifter with a VHE, they are totally different. But, yes we can achieve any range of colors that are deemed correct.

Parker Colors
 

I think the first thing to remember is that the color was a by product of the hardening process. It was in the metal, though only a few molecules deep, not on the metal. The color was quickly lost or worn off because of its thin ness. The hardness remained in a much thicker "case" below.

Best, Austin