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Does anybody have any experience with the Work Sharp Ken Onion sharpening system. I saw it in a buddy’s workshop the other day and failed to ask him any questions about it….
Dave |
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Stan, some purists will roll in their grave over this post. But all I can say is "ditto"! I went to Chef's Choice about 20 years ago after spending many many hours sharpening knives. And I'm finicky about sharp blades. I do use a steel after the third stage and that seems to help. And I've also found they need to be taken apart and cleaned every so often. Quick question: On your unit does the blade of the knife cut into the plastic guard after long use as shown in the photo below? Think that affects the performance of the sharpener or mess up the sharpening angle? |
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I refuse to admit to being a knife collector. Every knife I own (see partial sample below) was purchased for a specific reason! And they are all well used. (:
L to R: 1. Antique knife guessing late 19th early 20th century marked, Cornwall Knifeworks Conn. 2. Case small fixed blade 3. Bowen made for LL Bean 4. Puma White Hunter Model 6399 5. Puma Original Bowie Mod 6396 6. Unknown Knife Maker, West Yellowstone Montana 1980’s 7. Buck 121 fixed blade 8. Buck 103 Skinner 9. Buck 112+ Ranger Automatic Lockback 10. Buck 110< (1986) 11. Cheap neck knife 12. Randall 13. Randall 14. Randall |
I have a Ken Onion, I prefer the Tormek. I prefer the Chef's Choice over the Ken Onion too. If you're talking about the sharpener with the sandpaper strips, yeah, too much to keep track of. In reply to the Chef's Choice yes the plastic does get cut. I guess I like that I can set whatever angle on the Tormek I choose and it is pretty damn consistent. Again, since the stone is fine with some steels it takes a long time to get the burr to form.
https://shop.tormek.com/en/products/...r-carbon-black |
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Could you point me in the direction of instructions for disassembly and cleaning? The instruction manual for mine is gone with the wind. |
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NORMAL MAINTENANCE No lubrication is required for any moving parts, motor, bearings or sharpening surfaces. There is no need for water on abrasives. The exterior of the sharpener may be cleaned by carefully wiping with a damp cloth. Do not use detergents or abrasives. Once a year or so, as needed, you can remove metal dust that will accumulate inside the sharpener from repeated sharpenings. Remove the small rectangular clean-out cover (Figure 14) that covers an opening on the underside of the sharpener. You will find metal particles adhered to a magnet attached to the inside of that cover. Simply rub off or brush off accumulated filings from the magnet with a paper towel or tooth brush and reinsert the cover in the opening. If larger amounts of metal dust have been created or if the Stage 3 disk has been cleaned (using the cleaning/dressing means), you can shake out any remaining dust through the bottom opening when the cover is removed. After cleaning, replace the cover securely with its magnet in place. Probably want to this maintenance in your shop/barn and not the kitchen as it will be a mess inside. |
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Chris, thanks for the link to the manual; mine's long gone too!
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Thank you so much, Chris. I'll clean mine tomorrow morning when I go out to the shop to exercise.
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