Ok Bill, why don't you tell us of how many barrels have been butchered. That's like saying all guns should be banned because a couple of people misused them. No one should re-choke their gun because someone else did a bad job. Come on, I know you're smarter than that. What about the guys who sent their guns back into the Parker company and ask them to make them shoot straight and change the chokes. Are they also wrong. Or was it ok as long as Parker was the only one who did it ? There were many qualified gunsmiths back then who could also do it. Or maybe the gunsmiths of today just aren't qualified. Let's just agree to disagree.

quaifying shooter-grade
 

I see that one faction in the altering-of-chokes debate argues that there is little harm in opening chokes if the gun falls short of being high-grade or high-condition, ergo, is not a “collectable”.

Well, all things considered, I guess I collect guns that aren’t “collectible”.

I will never own an A-Grade; and high-condition or benchmark examples will forever be out of my price-range. Qualitatively and quantitatively, any Parker buys I make won’t register perceptibly in the gun market.

However, even if the vintage gun under my consideration is used, patinated, worn, pinned, or had a pad put on, I still regard surviving mechanical originality to be of primary importance.

I understand that this topic is for some of our fraternity tiresome in it’s interminability; but it is after all central to all fields of collecting.

At least...for us....there will always be photos... [for mutual enjoyment, undisputed admiration and fellowship].

A reamer will generally follow the hole that’s already there (i.e., path of least resistance). The key is to ensure the reamer’s inserted from the breech, and that the extension bar is supported by bushings, yet not rigid up-close to the cutting action so’s the reamer can float & follow the pre-existing hole (choke). Bear in mind however, that the geometry of the chokes lead-in taper (or ogee) will suffer material loss, unless of course, a proper reamer is ground for the task. A little careful polishing to blend the ogee/taper into the new choke would probably suffice though. Now, of course, if the chokes poi was off to begin with..the above technique is of litte use..that’s when it’s time for the lathe or the boring machine.

..an ounce of #5’s in each barrel seems to be good for pheasants in my guns.

To Dean’s comment in an earlier post - someone who’s never royally screwed something up, has never done a damn thing in any sort of shop whatsoever. Fact.

I've never"opened" a choke on a classic gun, per se, but I have Briley'ed a couple.
Including a Model 21, and an old H&H Royal SLE. My buddy, and hunting partner is going to send a Parker to Briley's, to give him a little more versatility.
Personally, I have more feelings about modifying an original Parker, than either of the other two, but in retrospect I wish I had left the H&H alone. I'm a tight choke guy, and the Holland was just too open for what I do. (Mostly desert quail)
The fact is, you lay the money down, you own the gun. You can do with it as you please.