yes I agree, I don't think I have bought more than 10 factory boxes of any trap loads in my 45 years of shooting, I load 100 % of all my clays and hunting loads. I though the same thing about driving to work, than I went down a few post and read this one, hit it on the head Mark! Glad no one was hurt :) scott

I'm waiting for followup replies to ban reloaded shells. Some people can't afford to shoot new shells, at least not in volume shooting.

It won't be over this - but I expect the politicians to get around to it any day

Drew

The examples you posted of mid-bore longitudinal splits tend to occur frequently in fluid steel barrels. This usually happens due to one of the following:

Barrel wall thickness under .025 thickness.

Partial bore obstruction. cocked wad or Item in the bore IE: spider nest, stick, snow etc.

Overpressured factory load or reload.

If there is a bulge at or near the terminal end of the split, it confirms an obstruction.
The lack of bulge indicates insufficent barrel wall thickness usually combined with an agressive choke constriction.
Over pressure generally manifests in multiple splits with 90 degree tears at the terminal ends.

Brad

thanks Dr Drew.

Brad thank you. That's the kind of info we need.

A data base would be great. Please keep up the good work.

All my best,

John

The Brits regularly proof barrels under 25 thou. Kinda makes me wonder.

If I'm not mistaken, the Brits consider .018" to be acceptable minimum for proofing, right? Or for shooting?

While some may say it is worthless in the case of an accident, I use a leather hand guard on all of my doubles. I use a 12 gauge guard on my 10s. It may never help, but one never knows how much the leather and spring steel inside it may go towards saving a hand or fingers, plus it saves the bluing and hot hands in September shooting at doves. Does not bother the sight plane for me. Never know it is there.

Greg and John,

I sure won't give you any flak for your thoughts on reloading. I will tell you though I have reloaded thousands of cartridges both rifle and pistol and quite a few shotshells. I have never had any problems with reloads of my own or my brother's making. The problems we have had with cartridges and shotshells have ALL been with factory ammunition. No guns blown up but faulty primers, squib loads, loads with no primer in the case on one occasion. Each of us makes their own choice of whether to reload or not. For my and my brother's short 10 guns reloading is the only way to make a shooter out of a piece of steel and wood.

Dennis

I reload and have experienced two problems in 40+ years that caused squib loads. One involved claybuster wads that were poorly molded, the base was not fully formed and it caused the gas to escape causing a squib. The second issue was my fault I picked up shells that were damp and reloaded them before they were dry--causing squibs.
Last weekend shooting sporting clays one of my friends was shooting RST's and experienced two squibs and another friend discovered a RST 2 1/2" 12ga shell there the crimp had opened about half open, the shell was discarded but he shot the rest of the box with no issues. A third friend was shooting Wally World Winchester promo loads and the plastic tube was not properly inserted into the base, a piece of the tube was actually on the outside of the case rim (this not the first time I have seen this defect). So problems happen with both factory shells and reloads. I think the best advise is to inspect shells before chambering them and inspect your barrels for a blockage after every shot----wear proper safety glasses and a shooting glove.