Matt is correct. I will send you a revised letter. I have one more thing to check about the first name. Maybe I'll find out tomorrow.

I did some measuring on the barrels and compared it to another #2 frame Parker just for reference to check average barrel wall thickness near the chamber.This is only an average as I don't have a barrel wall thickness gauge yet.Its on order.These measurements were taken internally with a Digital barrel gauge from Gary Bulley of Center Fire Ranch,and externally by a Starrett digital caliper.The gun I used for comparison has a 32 inch barrel#204+++ with 2 3/4 inch chambers.The difference between the 2 barrel sets are as follows with the 36 inch barrels being heavier.Beginning of the forcing cone was .0215,at 3 1/2 inches. 019,at 4 inches. 0165,at 4 1/2 inches. 012,at 6 inchs.005.This is the average that the barrels are thicker on the 36 inch barrels.Not knowing what average wall thickness should be,here are the average wall measurements on the 36 inch barrels.At the beginning of the forcing cone .216,at 3 1/2 inchs.2555,at 4 inchs .2355,at 4 1/2 inchs .2105,and at 6 inchs .159.These numbers need to be divided by 2 to get an average wall thickness.Can anybody follow my madness with math and tell me if these numbers are acceptable for wall thickness by the chamber.I know this is not true wall thickness,just average.Thanks.

I've read on here that Brian is very talented,and I apologise if I meet you at Pheasant Fest as everyone was new to me there,but look forward to meeting you someday.You can imagine I have lots of questions.I also have a G grade that has Parker steel barrels that the stock doesn't fit me at all,and would like to get that fixed someday.That gun is all original and not a mess like this one.

If your G grade really does have Parker Steel barrels it has the wrong barrels. Parker Steel barrels were for a Grade 1 or PH and the Parker Special Steel barrels were for the Grade 2 or GH guns.





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NO.... those numbers are not acceptable.

You need to take precise measurements with a good wall thickness gauge - no other method will give you the precise readings you need in order to know your gun is safe to continue shooting it.





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Yep I realize this Dean.I just did it for comparison to another #2 frame gun just to see if the numbers were way different.It can sit till I get my wall thickness gauge.In comparison to the other gun the chambed part of the barrels is a little stouter.Can you tell me what the safe wall measurements should be so when I get my gauge I know what to go by.

The gun is a GH.Now I'm not sure of anything anymore.I can post a photo if necessary.I actually got a double with this gun last fall also with a pair of roosters my labs jumped up in a food plot I had.Who would I contact to request a double pin?

Appears to me you're one decimal place off on the 32's. Should be .215, or two hundred and fifteen thousandths, not .0215, or twenty one and a half thousandths. The 36's seem more in line with reality. Taking one-half of those numbers would give you a calculated wall thickness near the end of the cone of about .108 or one hundred and eight thousandths. That is not an unreasonable thickness in my experience, tapering to .060 at 6 inches and .045 at 9. Others probably have other pet numbers, but those are the ones I'm most comfortable with as minimums. I will confess I have shot one 16 gauge quite a bit that mics at .072/.085 MWT at the end of the factory 2 1/2 inch chambers, but it has Vulcan steel barrels and I only shoot RST low pressure loads in it. You've got to decide for yourself what your minimums are.

http://parkerguns.org/forums/showthread.php?t=20184

Please carefully read all information in this thread to include all links in Dr. Drew Hause post 14 for a better understanding of this business of barrel thickness and safety.

Thanks Mike, my bad math,wrote it down wrong.Should have been .215.Comparing this gun with 2 others I have,it is a little stouter in the chamber area externally,and seems to have a little more --average - wall thickness.I still want to be sure there aren't any thin spots with this being 3 inch chambers.I have seen some pictures of guns that have been opened up and the cutter was not centered and the barrel wall getting really thin and blowing or bulging.I never plan on shooting a 3 inch shell in it but I'll bet is has seen quite a few with the stock being replaced and the current one being pinned.Doughting but not knowing if this was factory,any idea what would be standard wall thickness on a factory 3 inch gun.Would they have come ina #2 frame,or would they have been built on a #3.Unfamiliar territory for me.I do like hunting with the old doubles.If I need to shoot big shells I have a couple newer tens I can grab.